Hi everybody.
I receive my nichia 219C from intl outdoor today. But I see the led is not perfectly reflow on noctigon board. I can affect throw for sur. What do you think?
Just heat it up until it snaps into place.
oh yeah, I ’ve had hell with the 219c. Their footprint is a little smaller than the xp-l and they tend to shift to one side or the other just as the solder melts. Once the solder melts, you have about 4 seconds to bump the led with a small wooden stick until the solder grabs. I had a few come out just like that one until I got the hang of it. A quick reflow should get you tight to the board again. Just have a pair of tweezers or toothpick handy as you remove the heat.
Do I need some pure flux?
Or adding some solder paste to it? Because I think there is not enough solder under the led .
There is enough solder … just heat it up on the stove and push the led down till the solder sets
Hum I will try. I buyed the led on the copper board because I don’t want to reflow it myself.
Did you manage to see this with your eyes alone at first? 
It could be possible that a lot of emitters look like on the star when they’re photographed and you zoom right in?
Hi yes I see this with my eyes first. And I confirm you the led are not correctly in the same plan than the copper pcb. Because it’s my first nichia so I want to see it all the way possible. And I see the diode is not perfectly in the same plan. After that I want to ask on the forum if it’s normal. And I take picture with my phone.
I’d contact intl-outdoor/Hank because that’s clearly not the way it’s supposed to be. If I buy a LED mounted already, I think I can expect a LED that’s reflowed properly. Just my 0.02
There appears to be small gaps on the electrical contact pads. I would put a small dab of solder paste on each pad (less on the thermal path pad) on both sides of the emitter before reflowing. The flux from the solder paste will help the existing solder flow faster too. A little flux (from the solder paste) goes a long way.
EDIT: After it cools down from reflowing. Gently clean the dome with alcohol on a Q-tip. Any flux on it will burn on the dome when run at high amps.
After more close up of the led. I think exactly the same think as you?
I will put some soler paste.
And I think the led will goes to the same plan as the mpcb by itself.
^
I agree. It should seat itself just fine. 219C's have seated well for me on XP bases so far.
I don’t think you’ll have any problem reseating it yourself. If not, just send Hank an email. He’s excellent at making things right.
I agree. When I make this post. It’s juste to get members advise about this. Because it’s my firt nichia 219c (I juste don’t want to kill the led because she will be on a FET driver)
To my understanding do not try and drive a single Nichia with an FET
It works just fine I have one in a S2+ and drive it with a FET+1 driver. No problems so far even with 25Rs. But I like to use a 3400er NCR18650B in it so I don’t overdrive the LED that hard.
Like finges says with FET driver It’s ok . But I choose to run this light on a pana NCR18650B. I already have this battery. If the led get to much current. I already planned to mode a nangj 105 or a qlite with 16x7135 or less.
I prefer trying befors saying It’s not a good idea. Some people says it’s a good idea other say not.
I choose a s4 host for my EDC. I have some copper star for sbt 70 to put in the pill for better heat management. And no spring bypass.
i use a q-tip to press down on the dome while the solder cools
Oh thank for the great tips. I searching something for replacing toothpick.
Bob Loblaw wrote:
i use a q-tip to press down on the dome while the solder cools
Everyone has their preferred method that works best for them. I've had bad luck doing the above. Mostly because I get electrical shorts under the emitter sometimes and I'm not good at keeping it centered. Also the dome on most LED's is much more vulnerable at reflow temps.
Some testing by members (I think djozz too) has shown a thicker layer of solder does not seem to adversely impact performance. That has been my observation to, but I have not done any rigorous tests. I just haven't had any problems with high amps through LED's that have more solder than I would prefer under them.
Separately, I agree with finges above. My main go to light for the last several months has been a DD 219C using a healthy INR18650-20R. The 219C is one tough hombre. I'm sure it's not healthy for it, but that's just not a factor for typical flashlights IMHO.