So I’m building a micromag for a fellow who intends to use it with a tail switch. My micro mags run at six or seven amps so I got to wondering how the most common after market mini mag tail switch was constructed and what might be done to improve it. Zbattery.com has Nite Ize clicky switches for a decent price so I threw a bunch in with my latest order.
The first thing I noticed was the rather delicate spring sticking out the bottom. I figure its good for maybe couple amps but I wasn’t going to test it. First order of business was to get the black retainer out of the bottom of the switch so we can evaluate the internals. I drilled a small hole in one side and pried the retainer out with a small screwdriver.
This method leaves the retainer a bit warped and beaten but a little TLC fixes that right up. I beveled the bottom edge of the retainer to ease re-installation. The switch internals aren’t that different than most mechanical switches.
Next trick is to reduce resistance wherever we can. I clamped the switch plate in some helping hands and filled it with solder. While heating the plate I stuck the cone end of the spring into the solder. Next step was to run a 24 gauge wire through the spring and solder it into place on both ends.
All that remains is to install the spring/switch plate assembly and press the plastic retainer back into place. There are some annoying and apparently unnecessary plastic pins to fool with but it can be done. Or they can be cut off to make re-assembly easier.
I did some testing with a nichia 219 triple and the modified switch passed over 7 amps. I then installed the light engine and modified clicky in a host and ran it through 100 on/off cycles with full function throughout. The last pic is just of the switch installed in a micro mag host.
I’ll continue testing these and report back if there is any failure.
-Brian