Hm…my d3aa has 519A 5700k in there. Even comparing to my lower cct blended d3aa, it’s brighter on 1/150. Maybe a bug? I just factory reset and recustomized all my floor/ceiling to rule out user error, and it’s brighter for sure…
**in any case, I’m doing an unscientific on-until-noticeably-dim-or-off runtime test on the NTG kr1aa, set to (-76) ceiling, running on one Olight 2500mAh NiMH that has rested for a day after charging. So far, it has been over half an hour, no appreciable visible dimmage.
***about 2 hours in (1:52) it stepped down to about 20-30 lumens, which is above the blip. It’s currently still going at this brightness with a readout of 1.10V.
****just now stepped down again, about 5ish lumens, right a 2 hrs. Will be swapping a cell and testing again, but seems like 2 hrs. ANSI is a good baseline.
****second run started at 1605J.
*****second run stepdown at 1801J, so almost 2 hours again.
I know this is blasphemy to some, but I think I may go back to EDC my old V1 TS10. Not that I don’t think that my new KR1AA is superior in some ways, it is.
But the differences are not enough to make up for the downside. That being cost and availability. Cost because I think I paid $12 for the TS10. Availability because I have another 5 or 6 TS10s new in the box and fully programmed to my preferences if I happen to lose the one in my pocket. Oh yeah, and there is the triple emitters…
The last thing is the clip. The KR1AAs clip is nice, but does not apply enough pressure and is not stiff enough for good retention. It has worked itself out of my pocket a couple of times already. It did take a while, but I found and aftermarket clip for the TS10 that is just right. I don’t think I will find many aftermarket clips that will fit the KR1AA.
Not to say that I don’t like the KR1AA, I do. I will still carry it for a while to get a better idea how it fits me long term. I just hope I don’t lose the thing…
I’m still deliberating as well…the pinky draw to thumb button using the magnetic carabiner with the d3aa is very hard to pass on…looking forward to the first brave soul to try a guts swap from a kr1aa to a d3aa ---->d1aa? I imagine some custom thick ring or pseudo pill might be necessary to mate/seat the kr1aa pcb to the d3aa body…
Yes, particularly if it can be snapped on either end like the D3AA so that it will go on a hat brim. Or has a double-back like a TS10 so that it can clip in both directions.
I suppose the other option is to get a metal plate installed in my forehead for the magnet.
I agree. I’ve been carrying my KR1AA exclusively the past 2 weeks now until today. It’s a nice light, I like it and the SFT70 3000k is different enough from my other Hank lights (3 D3AA’s). But…the rotating pocket clip and more narrow beam, single emitter that doesn’t provide any more throw than the D3AA puts the D3AA on top for me. Still figuring out if I prefer the side or tail switch. I like both. Also prefer the aux lights in the D3AA.
Lots of folks like the side switch, but for me, there is not contest. The Tail Switch is far better. I still struggle to quickly locate the side switch when I pick up a light in very dark conditions. There is no such problem with a tail switch.
Love it so far.
Kinda like the rotating clip but I wonder if bending or dimpling it ever so slightly might make it better. I do have an issue with the black bezel not tightening enough to keep the optic from rattling when the light is shaken. Probably just need a larger Oring in the bezel…but now I gotta figure out which one.ETA -operator error. I didn’t put the lens from the original bezel into the new bezel.
did the stainless bezel come with its own O ring?
or can you use the O ring from the original bezel?
I did see one other report of a Black bezel not screwing down all the way… suggest you reach out to Hank if that is the case.. (and maybe use the stock bezel if it does not allow rattle)
I’m such a maroon that I failed to take the glass(?) lens out of the original bezel. It just stayed in and was perfectly clear so I missed it… :doh:
All good now.
I also find my NTG50 4200k bright at 1/150. I’m pretty sure my DA1 with 5000K at 1/150 is way lower. Will take a pic when I get home. And by bright I mean it looks similar to my SC62w when it’s at the 0.06lumen setting.
Exposure untouched. DA1 on top. KR1AA bottom
