Order in for Dark Grey with silver parts, NTG50 4200K, and magnetic tailcap.
Waiting 12 days to order the raw silver version seemed like an impossibly long time to wait, so will have to order a second unit later 
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Just ordered KR1AA with NTG50 2700K - this will be my first NTG, I hope I chose the right one. I really like SFT40 3000K, but in reality it’s closer to 3200K and NTG 2700K is rather 2600-2700K. We’ll see, maybe I will need to wait for silver KR1AA with SFT70 3000K.
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@Hank_Wang “KR1AA tube is glued into the head, the battery can be changed from the tailcap only.”
Curious to know what the reason for this would be. Is it possible to request that the flashlight head comes unglued?
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I wonder if gluing the head is part of what they did to support the mechanical lockout on V2 that many seemed to want.
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+1 for another KR1AA order.
NTG50 2700K
Blacked out body & SS parts
Violet tritium tail cap, spare tailcap w/ magnet
I think I’m really going to like the light, the size being overall smaller than the D3AA is a huge plus for me.
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I would imagine that the majority of us would be customizing the tailcap, and since there’s no real swappable parts in the head besides the bezel, the logical design choice was to glue the head to reduce the chance of the inner tube scuffing/scraping the head pcb/materials. I know in my older Novatacs, there was an inner lip that would shave bits off the retaining ring, and those bits could have potentially caused a short.
Something that definitely DID happen alot, though, was the head retaining ring always unscrewed itself a bit if i changed the battery from there, probably because every component was under some kind of compression: the bezel compressed the lens, compressed the oring, compressed the reflector, compressed the pill, compressed the retaining ring. If the kr1AA is similar in design, then there’s alot more floating linear compressions in the head than in the tail.
Thanks, just fixed.
Yes, we do have the N171M optic for sale.
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The V2 (although we have not officially released the V1 version) is quite different than the V1, there is a spring board on the driver instead of the hard contact on the V1 version, the light would support the mechanical lock out. However, the spring board is sensitive to over compressing, thus we decide to glue the head so that the light is more reliable. And the black inner sleeve is also different than the V1 version.
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The firmware can not be reflashed anymore by the user when the head is glued, and we do not have the 3-pin programmer for sale.
If you wish to update the firmware in the future, please send us an request not to glue the head, but please change the battery from the tailcap only, and not try to over compress the spring board on the driver.
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Thanks.
I forgot to put the tailcap button color as an option, including the polished silver, bronze PVD coating, as well as black PVD coating, if you have any preference of the button color, please send us an email to specify the color you like for the button with tritium vial.
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Do you have a photo of the “spring board” you’re describing here?
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Yes, sure, image attached. The spring board is gold plated which is hard to be seen when it sits next to the brass retaining ring (instead of the aluminum ring in the V1 version)
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Can we order the stock light in the brown color and then just buy the bronze SS PVD button and bezel separately? I want to be able to use the light with all the aluminum parts that are all matching and then be able to change it up to the bronze PVD parts if I get bored with the stock look.
If you order the KR1AA with the “bronze PVD coating” option, and choose the ss bezel, the ss bezel will be bronze PVD coated. If you would like to buy the spare bezel, please find it here,
But the button in the tailcap can not be swapped by the user since the tailcap is glued.
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I wonder if the Freeman’s longneck flashing tool will reach that far down the tube…
Might get stuck doing the TK “fork method” with some Dupont cables if not.
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I’m fairly confident his driver will work too, at least with some finagling.
I’d rather not take my chances over compressing the driver spring board and have mine glued.
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Yeah, not gonna take chances myself until someone definitively shows that all’s well doing more of a teardown than is necessary.
I’d just use some kapton tape to insulate the board, fasten it to a disposable wooden chopstick (hot glue or something easy to remove) to reach down in there.
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If you do not have paypal account, you can also purchase from our new Noctigon site, it supports credit card, google pay, apple pay.
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The “Shop” link in the menu bar, https://www.noctigon.com/led-flashlights doesn’t seem to work. The page says not found.