Hi all. Please excuse my noobness. Im a carpenter, its usally my job to put holes in and accidentally cut wires. Not fix them or understand how magic eletron bunnies work.
I hace a couple older s2+'s. Im thinking i might like to update the driver if its possible.
One has a 219b 3500k with the 12 mode linear driver. The other is a significantly older one with an XML2 U2-1A. No idea of the driver.
Hopefully im clever enough to work out they are both 3v emitters. Removing the old driver and soldering on a new one is well within my abilities. But how do i find out if 5 amps will fry them?
Ive done searches. Opinions vary. Ive found manufacturers specs. But its seems they are often ignored in the search fkr more lumens. Id rather not kill a perfectly good emitter. Flowing a new one is probably beyond my skill and desire.
My other project if possible would be to upgrade my m21a from 4 mode 6a driver to the 8amp 12 mode buck.
Id love answesrs of course if these driver swaps are viable. But is there a resource or general rule for overdriving emitters for a noob like me?
If you want something similar tint-wise, Nichia 519a can be driven harder and have more output. IIRC 5a is ok but around the limit (I normally use them in triples or quads).
If you’re looking to make a hotrod, SFT40 (I’d search for a 5000k instead of the common 6500k) and W2 will take anything you can throw at it. Another option is a 6v driver and the XHP series of LEDs.
As long as the S2+ drivers are held in with a retaining ring and Not soldered to the pill(Threaded Brass thingy that the driver and led are attached too) it’s not too tough.
If the Driver is soldered to the pill, it can be a nightmare, without the proper equipment.
Depending on the wattage of your soldering iron, you may have issues getting the solder on the MCPCB to flow properly.
For lower wattage soldering irons I recommend placing something like a popsicle stick between the MCPCB and the Pill.
The Pill will quickly wick away the heat from the iron, so isolating the MCPCB makes it much easier to get the solder to flow.
Don’t forget to clean/reapply fresh thermal paste if you end up moving the MCPCB.
If the driver on your S2+ with the XML is green it’s probably the 3/5 mode driver(one of my least favorite UIs!).
Like @SIGShooter mentioned, if the MCPCB is aluminum(most likely it’s aluminum), 5A may burn it up.
Simon sells the 8×7135 12 group driver which would be a good choice if you plan to keep the XML and it has an aluminum MCPCB.
For drivers that are soldered to the pill I used to solder thin wires to the underside of the driver and then just press fitted it into the pill. With the proper combination of wires & thinkness you may never get the driver out of the pill in the future
Im in Australia. The shipping to here on mtn was almost the cost of the whole light when i looked last.
I could go ebay or aliexpress and get free shipping. But have am concerned about getting dodgy gear.
If simon had the sft40 or w1 for the m21a or a 519a for the s2+ on board ready to go i would give it a go. But im very noob and cant figure out sizes. Help would be very appreciated.
I think 16mm board fits s2+. But not sure about m21a. Id upgrade my s21 to 519a and buck also if i could do that.
Have you looked at http://kaidomain.com/ ? They sell mounted LED’s and drivers and perhaps they ship cheaper/free to Australia. I’ve ordered from them a number of times, as recently as this year, and never had a problem with getting my purchases.
