noob modding an old courui d01 to xhp70

H1ST · 2018-06-27T22:36:46.000Z

So I have two of these old courui d01 hosts lying around from a few years back and really wanted to mod one with a xhp70.2 and perhaps later on a xhp35 in the other one as a thrower unless someone else can recommend some different leds?

Heres what im thinking…
http://www.kaidomain.com/p/S026862.Cree-XHP70_2-White-6000K-LED-Emitter-with-20mm-x-1_5mm-DTP-Copper-MCPCB-6V
http://kaidomain.com/p/S026841.KX70-32mm-4A-1-cell-6-Mode-Boost-Driver-Circuit-Board-with-Side-Switch-for-Cree-XHP70-6V

Can anyone confirm if these will work fine together on 3 x 18650 in parallel?

The courui only has a 5mm thick shelf for the led, and was thinking of making adding some heat sink/mass to the back as there’s some spare room between the led and driver… Is brass worth using? as copper seems a little expensive for the small amount I need, if not would aluminium still be worth adding?

Any help, suggestions or if anyone’s done anything similar to show that would be great!

Thanks!

KawiBoy1428 · 2018-06-27T23:58:23.000Z

So you want to do up a 70.2 SUPER COURUI ……

Or two…

Got enough parts…. like 2 tail caps per Super Courui…

Here is a visual…of the 2 tube connection you’ll need to do if you choose this route…

I made an aluminum stepped pressed in pill with a 32mm pocket.

Lexel built Narsil T/A driver in one and a LD-2 Linear driver set @ 12amps in the other, which is dual button capable, meaning the tail cap push button is used for ON/OFF and cycles thru the (3)modes as does the e-switch, and the e-switch has a momentary Off. Dual function switch driver, that is no longer made. :person_facepalming:

:cry:

H1ST · 2018-06-28T01:40:41.000Z

Wow that’s some great stuff and good inspiration! I wasn’t thinking quite that extreme though!

Do you have any experience with the driver I listed? Also did you centre the reflector using a centring ring?

Thanks!

KawiBoy1428 · 2018-06-28T09:25:16.000Z

The reflectors I ended up using were an L6 smooth in one and a S70 OP in the other, no centering rings.

Yes I tried most if not all the single cell and 2S boost drivers out there, I need more current out of them, and when boosted, they are unreliable… Unless you want to change a bunch of components, it’s Not really worth it to me. I’m waiting on Lexel…

H1ST · 2018-06-28T15:11:09.000Z

How do those two compare to the stock reflector? I was thinking an OP might be needed…

Do you think the courui will still need additional heatsink if I’m only running at 4A 6v?

Is it possible to run two of the same driver in parallel to one led for more current? or will that make every setting twice the power :question:

Thanks for the help!

KawiBoy1428 · 2018-06-28T16:23:16.000Z

H1ST:

How do those two compare to the stock reflector? I was thinking an OP might be needed…

Do you think the courui will still need additional heatsink if I’m only running at 4A 6v?

Is it possible to run two of the same driver in parallel to one led for more current? or will that make every setting twice the power :question:

Thanks for the help!

The Stock Courui reflector will need to be opened up to get around the 70, not needed with the L6/S70.

The Courui plate is kind of thin in the middle and rough machined on the backside, I have sanded/filed the plate smooth on the backside and added an aluminum slug for added sinking. But look at the Courui’s design, not much in the heat transfer department, threaded plate, small fin- mass- less body threaded to the head and battery tube.

Hahaa try it with the 2 drivers in parallel let me know what happens,

H1ST · 2018-06-28T18:09:11.000Z

By opened up do you just mean drilled out? I used to always have trouble sitting these stock reflectors far enough over the led without shorting on the led star…

That’s all I was thinking of doing myself in terms of heatsink with a slug of either copper or aluminium hopefully it will suffice…

I thought it was a stupid question haha what would happen? break the time space continuum? melt the torch in to gloop? or not work at all? lol

Cheers

KawiBoy1428 · 2018-06-28T20:46:21.000Z

I don’t really know, never thought of it, had to laugh when you mentioned it, but most likely screw up the UI between the 2, I don’t think it would back feed :laughing: I might try it, build it outside the light on my sink with a fire extinguisher handy!

H1ST · 2018-06-28T21:29:43.000Z

Would be cool if it did work! surely someones tried it, definitely have the extinguisher near by lol

MRsDNF · 2018-06-28T21:43:17.000Z

Orsm mods KawiBoy1428. Very creative.

KawiBoy1428 · 2018-06-28T21:53:36.000Z

MRsDNF:

Orsm mods KawiBoy1428. Very creative.

Thank you sir!

H1ST · 2018-08-04T09:10:55.000Z

I think Im going to go down the 2s 18650 route, can you give any advice/help on how you connected the two courui bodies together? I have two end caps but it the threaded section doesn’t seem long enough to thread both bodies together, however in your pictures it looks as though it bridges the gap between the two perfectly.

Any advice would be great!

Thanks

KawiBoy1428 · 2018-08-04T11:01:07.000Z

H1ST:

I think Im going to go down the 2s 18650 route, can you give any advice/help on how you connected the two courui bodies together? I have two end caps but it the threaded section doesn’t seem long enough to thread both bodies together, however in your pictures it looks as though it bridges the gap between the two perfectly.

Any advice would be great!

Thanks

The other side will be a reasonable press fit, you might have to sand a bit off to get it to just start in. I epoxied both sides after final fit and alignment during the assembly making sure I had continuity between the tubes and center cap, so remove all ano at all connection, and make sure you align the battery cavities. You don’t need to use very much epoxy, so use it sparingly, don’t want to insulate the contact between the three.

When you cut the cap leave enough material to sand/file flat and square, a general idea of material removal marked in red on the center cap. Then remove a few threads from the right tube, leaving a couple to thread the cap on, I marked them on the pic with red to give a basic idea. Now you can epoxy the connector ring to the right tube, or wait and do it all together when your happy with the final fit, you only really need to just fill that o-ring band. Measure now from the inside, what you’ll need to remove from the left battery tube, shown by the green tape, it usually ends up with that o-ring band still intact, which is what you want, for your press fit and then you’ll pack that band with epoxy, before you press them together and align the battery cavities.

You only need to use enough epoxy to hold it all together in place, check to make sure you have a good connection, and battery tube alignment, then you can use a wood flat stick to pack the epoxy in heavy, just don’t go crazy with the stuff, then clear the battery tubes of excess epoxy with a round file.

If you need anything you can also PM me, take your time have fun (I really enjoyed it ) and good luck! :+1:

DavidEF · 2018-08-04T12:49:52.000Z

KawiBoy1428:

H1ST:

I think Im going to go down the 2s 18650 route, can you give any advice/help on how you connected the two courui bodies together? I have two end caps but it the threaded section doesn’t seem long enough to thread both bodies together, however in your pictures it looks as though it bridges the gap between the two perfectly.

Any advice would be great!

Thanks

The other side will be a reasonable press fit, you might have to sand a bit off to get it to just start in. I epoxied both sides after final fit and alignment during the assembly making sure I had continuity between the tubes and center cap, so remove all ano at all connection, and make sure you align the battery cavities. You don’t need to use very much epoxy, so use it sparingly, don’t want to insulate the contact between the three.

When you cut the cap leave enough material to sand/file flat and square, a general idea of material removal marked in red on the center cap. Then remove a few threads from the right tube, leaving a couple to thread the cap on, I marked them on the pic with red to give a basic idea. Now you can epoxy the connector ring to the right tube, or wait and do it all together when your happy with the final fit, you only really need to just fill that o-ring band. Measure now from the inside, what you’ll need to remove from the left battery tube, shown by the green tape, it usually ends up with that o-ring band still intact, which is what you want, for your press fit and then you’ll pack that band with epoxy, before you press them together and align the battery cavities.

You only need to use enough epoxy to hold it all together in place, check to make sure you have a good connection, and battery tube alignment, then you can use a wood flat stick to pack the epoxy in heavy, just don’t go crazy with the stuff, then clear the battery tubes of excess epoxy with a round file.

If you need anything you can also PM me, take your time have fun (I really enjoyed it ) and good luck! :+1:

I’m glad YOU GUYS know what you’re doing. To me it sounds like Step one: perform brain surgery. Step two: send a man to the moon. Step three: invent time travel.

H1ST · 2018-08-04T15:36:33.000Z

Thank you kindly! That makes much more sense! I would love to have it threaded but will still try a press fit, I don’t know what ally these are made of I’m wondering if i can weld the press fit section to the tube, sounds a bit ott though lol

H1ST · 2018-08-08T15:16:10.000Z

KawiBoy1428:

Lexel built Narsil T/A driver in one and a LD-2 Linear driver set @ 12amps in the other,

is this similar to the ld-2 driver you used?

https://led4power.com/product/ld-b4hv-2-12amp-2s4s-multi-cell-17mm-constant-current-led-flashlight-driver-external-mosfet-support/

Thanks

KawiBoy1428 · 2018-08-08T09:33:58.000Z

H1ST:

KawiBoy1428:

Lexel built Narsil T/A driver in one and a LD-2 Linear driver set @ 12amps in the other,

is this similar to the ld-2 driver you used?

https://led4power.com/product/ld-b4hv-2-12amp-2s4s-multi-cell-17mm-const…

Thanks

No… Neven discontinued the LD-2, his drivers are push button only now.

H1ST · 2018-08-08T15:19:04.000Z

Sorry I dont think i pasted the link properly
https://led4power.com/product/ld-b4hv-2-12amp-2s4s-multi-cell-17mm-constant-current-led-flashlight-driver-external-mosfet-support/

is this driver still suitable? I don’t mind ditching the side switch

Thanks

KawiBoy1428 · 2018-08-08T16:24:41.000Z

H1ST:

Sorry I dont think i pasted the link properly
https://led4power.com/product/ld-b4hv-2-12amp-2s4s-multi-cell-17mm-constant-current-led-flashlight-driver-external-mosfet-support/

is this driver still suitable? I don’t mind ditching the side switch

Thanks

Yep 2S 6volt 12amps is Max. Your going to have to build a sink and mount it to the pill, for this driver, you can’t air wire it, like a FETDD driver, you will use the old driver as a contact plate.

H1ST · 2018-08-10T20:09:02.000Z

I have made a solid alu heatsink which fills half of the couruis driver cavity area, Im not sure if this will be sufficient and wondering if it should be copper?

Mounting the driver to the heat sink shouldn’t be an issue and I’d probably do it any way for durability…

Only thing is i see they may make a 3s version and now wondering if i should wait and convert the one battery tube to 3s instead :question:

Thanks!