NovaTac 120E Nichia 219B

CRX · 2017-04-20T20:54:53.000Z

Great, is the spring retainer good, working ok? I didn’t like the way it just fell out when changing cells.

A triple would be nice, would need to check the depth of the angled reflector though and the driver might be potted in there, something with a bit more power would probably be better anyway so you could install a new driver, clicky switch, triple and run it on 18350 cells

ven · 2017-04-20T20:31:13.000Z

Been great, no issues at all and spring has stayed put. Kind of a crazy design really, but must have been necessary back in the day and with this design for contact.

Defo up for a triple 219bt 4000k at some point :sunglasses: , will enjoy it as is for now. The h17f driver would be a lot better than the single/double click and press hold UI.

CRX · 2017-04-20T20:40:00.000Z

Cool, I didn’t mean a triple for yours, just meant it would be a nice host for it if someone else was thinking of doing it

weklund · 2017-04-20T20:51:09.000Z

Very nice work … I am a big fan of the “Ole” Novatac. I EDC mine quite a bit.

Sledgestone · 2017-04-20T20:50:15.000Z

You really sent it to the right guy, Ven!

lumenzilla · 2017-04-26T06:43:02.000Z

Ozythemandias:

I’d love to turn mine into a triple. Please document and photograph it! or just do mine for cash!

Sorry I forgot to take picture during the process, but here’s the final result.

I use a coin sized copper as the base (heat dissipation won’t be great though) and using rubber silicon to wrap 20 mm TIR optic to fit the host.

Triple nichias and optic were bought from Kaidomain.

jon_slider · 2018-08-24T21:07:40.000Z

CRX:

Great, is the spring retainer good, working ok? I didn’t like the way it just fell out when changing cells.

A triple would be nice, would need to check the depth of the angled reflector though and the driver might be potted in there, something with a bit more power would probably be better anyway so you could install a new driver, clicky switch, triple and run it on 18350 cells

ven:

Been great, no issues at all and spring has stayed put. Kind of a crazy design really, but must have been necessary back in the day and with this design for contact.

Defo up for a triple 219bt 4000k at some point :sunglasses: , will enjoy it as is for now. The h17f driver would be a lot better than the single/double click and press hold UI.

My guess is the spring still exists in the HDS design to this day, as a wire, because it provides power to the Electronic switch. If it had a mechanical switch, the spring could go away, and an 18350 could be used…

all with just a little more CRX magic

outstanding writeup and pics, thanks!

lumenzilla:

Ozythemandias:

I’d love to turn mine into a triple. Please document and photograph it! or just do mine for cash!

Sorry I forgot to take picture during the process, but here’s the final result.

I use a coin sized copper as the base (heat dissipation won’t be great though) and using rubber silicon to wrap 20 mm TIR optic to fit the host.

Triple nichias and optic were bought from Kaidomain.

Holly Tripple, Wow!

CRX · 2018-09-17T01:42:48.000Z

I believe it could be possible, maybe by clearing the stock driver board and connecting the MTN driver to the appropriate contacts.
I haven’t opened the pill on one of these so don’t know how it is inside but would imagine there would be space for a 14mm or 15mm driver?

jon_slider · 2018-09-17T04:29:11.000Z

Rm404:

Would the driver mtn electronics sells with emisar d4 ui work with the electronic switch, if you chose to swap out the stock driver? Instead of putting in a mechanical clicky switch?

I dont know the answer to your questions, and look forward to learning more.

ven:

The h17f driver would be a lot better than the single/double click and press hold UI.

I would like to learn more about options like the H17f driver in a Novatac, I dont know the pros and cons of that option, Im hoping CRX will come up with some real world testing soon…

My main interest would be to find a driver, with ramping UI, or at least programmable, that did not use any PWM below 3000Hz, and that would not have other types of visible flicker. afaik the D4 driver uses PWM, I think the H17f does too, but I have not owned any lights with those drivers, so have not had opportunity to test them with my phone camera, and my eyes.

Im very interested in coming up with a viable option to drive a tripple Nova with a NoPWM, NoFlicker driver, and that has a more intuitive UI than the Novatac or HDS. One that could be handed to a newbie with simple instructions, like, click on, click off, hold to ramp brighter…

e1000 · 2019-08-01T17:16:01.000Z

Is there a trick to getting the pill retaining ring loose? Just bought a SPL120 AWLK and the retaining ring refuses to budge.

CRX · 2019-08-01T17:40:42.000Z

Long nosed pliers.

e1000 · 2019-08-01T17:45:50.000Z

I tried a lens spanner wrench and no luck. Maybe I need to eat lunch first. LOL

CRX · 2019-08-01T17:47:05.000Z

Put some effort into it!

Nev · 2019-08-01T17:59:00.000Z

e1000:

I tried a lens spanner wrench and no luck. Maybe I need to eat lunch first. LOL

Have some spinach.

CRX · 2019-08-01T18:01:19.000Z

Oh great, now we’ve got Nevs attention

Nev · 2019-08-01T18:12:32.000Z

LOL

Lucky you.

e1000 · 2019-08-01T18:12:13.000Z

hahahaha. I’m serious I have the head in a vise. Not budging. About to give up.

Nev · 2019-08-01T18:13:51.000Z

Use a big hammer.

e1000 · 2019-08-01T18:17:14.000Z

I’m ready to use a blowtorch

CRX · 2019-08-01T18:30:51.000Z

I’ve never seen a glued retaining ring in these but could be, maybe a little heat?,
Loosen the front bezel a half turn too.