Olight S Mini

candor · 2017-10-08T12:49:54.000Z

Lightbringer:

Know the distinction between color-temperature (blue vs yellow) and tint (red vs green). Rosy would be below the BBL (black-body line), and would be the A and D in Cree parlance. Warmer vs colder would be higher numbers, 3 vs 5 vs 7.

Thanks for pointing out the temperature/tint distinction. I’m a bit frazzled after trying to shop around and then decode the Cree datasheet. It took me way too long to understand that the order codes didn’t indicate the bin codes. I’m certain I’ll want to go with an A or D. I’m just trying to imagine the differences between the 1, 2, 3, and 4. And, sometimes that isn’t even indicated. It has been confusing trying to figure all this out.

Lightbringer:

Still, my vote would be to just try both and see which you prefer. Or better yet, get 2 lights, one with the 5D and the other with the 7A.

I’m too chicken to do the swap myself. I want to practice first on something else. And I’m too impatient to wait so I’ll be sending this out to LightRider to do it. Otherwise, I could do both (or more), see which I prefer, and go with that.

ToyKeeper:

If you’re starting with a copper S-Mini, the tint it comes with is probably around 6000K, like 1C/1D/2B/2A. I think the titanium ones are about 5000K, probably 3A/3B/3C/3D for neutral white. If you go with a 5D3 emitter, that’ll be the yellow end of neutral (~3800K), or a 7A3 emitter is even more yellow (~3100K) like an incandescent bulb.

I find the sweet spot to be around 4750K (shown on chart), but that’s a matter of personal preference.

ToyKeeper:

I haven’t tried 4A, but I like the Nichia 219A and 219B emitters I have in 4500K to 4800K tints.

I have several L3 Illumination lights (L08, L10, L10C, L11C) with 219A or 219B. I prefer the 219A over the 219B when comparing them side to side as it is a touch warmer. The 219B is brighter, though. I have one light with a 5000K 219C and I wish it was warmer.

LightRider:

I very much like 3D. And I very much like 5A, but I have tried a couple of 4a emitters and don’t like it. It’s right on the line of appearing white vs warm and seems to reveal an unwanted feeling. So for me it’s go up one or down one but stay away from the 4. Tk, have you experienced the same?

Interesting.

Geuzzz:

I’d go for the 5D. Really nice in combination with the “soft” tir of the S1 mini. BTW the neutral emitter that was original in my light was pretty green, certainly not a 3D.

http://intl-outdoor.com/noctigon-xm16-v2-mcpcb-cree-xml2-u2-5d-p-806.html

I think it’ll be a 5D. I saw the U2 5D that you linked to but it doesn’t specify CRI or the 1, 2, 3, 4 (what’s the term for that?). I don’t have enough experience to know which 1234 I’d prefer but I do want high CRI. I don’t mind sacrificing a little efficiency for a little higher CRI.

Jerommel · 2017-10-08T12:53:27.000Z

LightRider:

I very much like 3D. And I very much like 5A, but I have tried a couple of 4a emitters and don’t like it. It’s right on the line of appearing white vs warm and seems to reveal an unwanted feeling. So for me it’s go up one or down one but stay away from the 4. Tk, have you experienced the same?

I have an XM-L2 4D in a C8 sized light with OP reflector, a ‘corona killer’ (turns the corona into spill) and a 5° diffuser film.
But besides that, i love the tint.
It’s cool enough to not miss the red too much (because it’s not high CRI)
4A and 4D are not easy to find though.

LightRider · 2017-10-08T14:02:10.000Z

Candor, if you like I will Order both emitters and do a comparison by photo. Then whichever emitter you choose, I’ll just charge you for that emitter and I’ll keep the other. It may come in handy down the line anyway.

Your call:)

jon_slider · 2017-10-08T19:58:48.000Z

jon_slider:

Would a Nichia work

Geuzzz:

No

candor:

Would an XM-L2 EasyWhite work?

~~X3~~:

Nope

sooo… no High CRI option for the Olight S-Mini?

how about this one… can it take a High CRI Nichia?:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Mini-flashlight-USB-charging-EDC-ultra-small-hand-light-portable-16340-miniature-pocket-side-by-flashlight/32821588455.html

X31 · 2017-10-08T20:16:35.000Z

You have an option for High CRI in the Olight S baton series with TIR optics such as the S mini.
Kaidomain is selling a 3000K XM-L2 92 CRI though it’s not as beautiful as a Nichia tint of course…

Geuzzz · 2017-10-08T20:35:09.000Z

Yes a nichia will work in that light, but I don’t think you can compare that light with the s mini.

Btw, I have a 80+ cri Xm-l2 in the s mini. And I don’t have the feeling I’m missing cri compared to my nichias, unless you use them next to each other and really focus on it.

jon_slider · 2017-10-08T20:35:32.000Z

~~X3~~:

You have an option for High CRI in the Olight S baton series with TIR optics such as the S mini.
Kaidomain is selling a 3000K XM-L2 92 CRI though it’s not as beautiful as a Nichia tint of course…

thank you for the very helpful education

fwiw, I had a XPL 90 CRI installed into an Olight i3s. It is VERY yellow
it is presently with LightRider, waiting for the arrival of some Warm High CRI N219c

here is the color difference between them

I dont tolerate Yellow very well, so a Low CRI “Neutral” SMini is not on my radar… and even in high CRI, Cree LEDs tend to be on the Yellow side, above the BBL… The 219c are also above the BBL, but not as much, so not as yellow.

this image will give some idea why the N219b is known to be “pink”… note how it lands below the BBL
The N219c is not as pink, note how it lands above the BBL

maukka:

I don’t have a maukka scan of a 3000k XPL, but here is one of a cooler version…
Note the Tint lands above the BBL

maukka:

candor · 2017-10-08T20:43:30.000Z

Geuzzz:

Btw, I have a 80+ cri Xm-l2 in the s mini. And I don’t have the feeling I’m missing cri compared to my nichias, unless you use them next to each other and really focus on it.

Is it the same one you linked to earlier? This one: http://intl-outdoor.com/noctigon-xm16-v2-mcpcb-cree-xml2-u2-5d-p-806.html

Geuzzz · 2017-10-08T20:51:24.000Z

I believe I have XM-L2 T5 5D1 80+CRI in it.

Mountain electronics has a 5D3 with minimal 80cri.

http://www.mtnelectronics.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=392

jon_slider · 2017-10-08T20:53:26.000Z

Geuzzz:

Yes a nichia will work in that light, but I don’t think you can compare that light with the s mini.

Btw, I have a 80+ cri Xm-l2 in the s mini. And I don’t have the feeling I’m missing cri compared to my nichias, unless you use them next to each other and really focus on it.

Thank you for the education
I don’t consider 80CRI sufficient for my High CRI goals, I want 90+CRI

it seems clear to me that the people that enjoy the Olight options, don’t mind Low CRI, and don’t mind Yellow Tint.

I will assume unless you show me a photo otherwise, that side by side Compared to a 4000k 90CRI N219b (that I linked to), your 80CRI XM-L2 is yellow tinted.

@candor
I hope you are beginning to grasp some of the variables in play
CRI, Color Temperature, and Tint
each variable is independent, for example, you can have an 80CRI 4000k Yellow Tinted Cree LED, or you can (not in an Smini), have a 90CRI 4000k Pink Tinted N219b…

you won’t know the difference unless you compare them… so my advice is don’t compare them or you might become a snob like me, who refuses to buy Low CRI LEDs (I call anything above 90CRI, High CRI)

candor · 2017-10-08T20:56:56.000Z

Yeah, that’s the one I’ve pretty much decided on. I can imagine what the difference is between the 5D1 and the 5D3 but I haven’t found any photo comparison. Have you experienced both?
Not that it much matters—I don’t see the 5D1 available anywhere.

candor · 2017-10-08T22:08:17.000Z

LightRider:

Candor, if you like I will Order both emitters and do a comparison by photo. Then whichever emitter you choose, I’ll just charge you for that emitter and I’ll keep the other. It may come in handy down the line anyway.

Your call:)

Now that’s service!

I hope to get going with this in the next day or so. Looks like it’ll be the T5 5D3 from Mountain Electronics. I’m gonna pick up a D4 as soon as they’re available again so I can just get the emitter then.

@jon_slider
I hear you, brother. I have snobbish tendencies but not a great deal of experience with the myriad of options. I got the S Mini to check out the form factor. I prioritized the copper over the emitter halfway thinking I would gift it if I wasn’t impressed. I loved the copper goodness and, to my surprise, wasn’t all that disappointed in the CW. But, as is apparent in the past few pages of this thread, would like to make it something I could really love.

@everyone else
Thanks for your time and advice. I love BLF!

jon_slider · 2017-10-08T22:42:11.000Z

candor:

I got the S Mini to check out the form factor. I prioritized the copper over the emitter halfway thinking I would gift it if I wasn’t impressed. I loved the copper goodness and, to my surprise, wasn’t all that disappointed in the CW. But, as is apparent in the past few pages of this thread, would like to make it something I could really love.

Im also very attracted Copper, and also have been fortunate to have modding help from LightRider.

I look forward to your progress, and Photos

LightRider modded the two lights on the left, and I could not be happier. Highest recommendations for his services!

here is a beam shot, with white balance set to the 4000k Nichia… the light on the right is Cool White 6000k+ Color temp.

as time allows, you will learn about the effects of white balance on photos, and brain
I like to match the color temperature of my flashlight to the white balance of my brain in a given environment

copper copper copper
I like to have a range of color temperature choices:

the beams from the above lights:

note white balance is now the 6000k light (thats cool white, what some cameras refer to as “daylight” white balance)

LightRider · 2017-10-09T03:11:00.000Z

jon_slider:

jon_slider:

Would a Nichia work

Geuzzz:

No

candor:

Would an XM-L2 EasyWhite work?

~~X3~~:

Nope

sooo… no High CRI option for the Olight S-Mini?

how about this one… can it take a High CRI Nichia?:
Page Not Found - Aliexpress.com

I have two of these lights on the bench for a mod right now and I have 12 more on the way. Let me know if you want one and I’ll mod it for you;) should work great with xp sized emitters.

X31 · 2017-10-09T07:04:29.000Z

Is it a Lumintop Wrom ? Like, really ?!

Trevi_lux · 2017-10-09T07:31:11.000Z

~~X3~~:

Is it a Lumintop Wrom ? Like, really ?!

X31 · 2017-10-09T08:37:45.000Z

Trevi_lux:

~~X3~~:

Is it a Lumintop Wrom ? Like, really ?!

Ermagherd Limnutop Wrom !

jon_slider · 2017-12-09T01:08:04.000Z

LightRider:

I have two of these lights on the bench for a mod right now and I have 12 more on the way. Let me know if you want one and I’ll mod it for you;) should work great with xp sized emitters.

I look forward to your results. Wondering what the lumen levels and mode sequence is. I can’t figure it out from the web info.

~~X3~~:

Is it a Lumintop Wrom ? Like, really ?!

Yes,
and it is available for adoption to a good home PM me if anyone is interested
the head also plays well on a Maratac, a Tool, and a Thrunite
it uses a 4500k N219b, quite nice, and not as yellow as the latest Maratac and Tools which are closer to 4000k

fwiw, modes on the Wrom are MLH 20-3-90, no PWM, and regulated and efficient, even in High mode, much better runtime too, than the Tool, which is very inefficient and unregulated on High.

jon_slider · 2017-12-13T01:41:09.000Z

Received my Copper S Mini today.
Photographable PWM/Constant Current Flicker:

size comparisons

Im amazed how small the S Mini is. The beam is very green in the middle.
Electronic Lockout causes moonlight to work when pressing the button, and turns off when releasing the button. a little weird… but, Im happily entertained. Lockout also erases memory and unlocking starts the light on Moonlight.

ToyKeeper · 2017-12-13T01:54:04.000Z

The moon flicker is unfortunate, but I understand why they did it. At such a low level, the processor takes more power than the LED, so it doesn’t have as much runtime as it should. This can be improved by underclocking the processor in moon mode, but it has the side effect of slowing down PWM.

I like how the lockout mode also allows moon to be used without unlocking the light. I put a similar feature in Anduril, except it works a bit better than Olight’s version. It may seem weird at first, but I think it makes a lot of sense.