Even if not that important, yes. I carefully glued a 3535 gasket around the emitter, one which I had previously lapped to reduce its height from 0.8mm down to 0.6 or 0.5mm. The reflector sits quite close to the solder pads. I had to dismiss my first attempts, where I left the gasket at just 0.2 - 0.3mm and the reflector wouldn't seat properly due to it landing over the pad wires. O:)


Thanks David :+1:

I think that with a small reflector, it is indeed impressive. The beam is not straight all the time as it has a slight opening, but it makes possible to have a tube light (eventually in a 18350 version) as a “true” pocket thrower :partying_face:

Gonna have a walk with this M1 right now. Its driver pulls nearly 4.8A on high according to my power supply.

The reflector setup… don't know what to think of. The corona is slightly asymmetrical, and I see rings.

Took some quick ceilingbounce measurements, got very close to 100Kcd for my M1. I don't know how accurate is my smartphone luxmeter. I have a Sofirn C01S in case anyone wants to help getting some comparative figures. Will measure again with the help of a friend in a day or two.


M1 speaking, adjusted my homemade setup and measured again: 101.5Kcd peak and ≈97Kcd at 30s.

I really don't know how the ceilingbounce application works 30s warning sound wise. I was hoping for the 30s alarm to reset upon pressing “reset” but it doesn't seems to.

I think this is about what is to be expected from such host, doesn't it? Its reflector seems to be about half of the surface of a C8.

For a non-high-CRI emitter the tint looks good.

Cheers and have fun :-)

I just hold it with my fingertips. It takes some patience… I got some training when I put Luxeon V’s in my Q8.

Will this led provide any benefits on a reflector like these - in terms of throw @ 2 or 3 amps ? or i’m better off going with xpl-hi instead ? these are motorcycle auxiliary spot lights and i want to increase throw with making the beam more narrow.

above one is @3 amps

^ this one is @2 amps. asking this because i can’t increase the current. and it seems like white flat requires higher current. so before ordering new leds, just want to be sure.


White flat will spank XP-L HI's ass at any current, and namely at 2 to 3 amps.


well that’s a good news, i was reading a thread about black flat on Emisar D1s @ 5amp and manufacturer abandoned the plan so i thought maybe it requires higher current. one more thing, can i reflow it on xm-l2 board or not. and do i need to worry about anything else ? or its just replacing the led and go kinda thing.


No, you can’t.

You need a triple 3030 MCPCB to be able to reflow them on.

The alternative to getting more throw would be dedomed SST-40s.

i have never done dedoming before so that option is a no go for me. guess i will get white flat on 16mm dct instead of reflowing on current board. leds have minimum 17mm distance between them, so i think 3x 16mm boards will be fine. now only issue left is, these leds are 6000-6500k or above, but i guess you gotta lose something to gain something.

If you have enough center to center distance go for it slopegatri70, 3 × ∅16mm boards. Just pay attention at how is the stuff set up, very likely emitters in series (3S1P).

CSLNM1.TG (1mm²) is ≈6500K that's what there is. The tint is nice, though, my recently built M1 looks pretty white to my eyes, far better than most cheapass emitters inside cheapass flashlights. But ;-) cool.

It'll be an interesting throw upgrade, for sure.

Sounds like a plan that could work :slight_smile:
Although there is some work involved, quite a bit of wiring, but the main problem to solve: you need a new way of centering those small 3030 leds: measure the reflector hole, find a source for 3030 centering pieces (intl-outdoor?) , maybe adapt the thickness of the centerpieces for best focus, and possibly ream the reflector holes to fit them.

Reflector hole is 7mm, and it seems like intl-outdoor sells 7mm gasket with white flat. yes those leds are connected in series. only thing i haven’t measured is space between reflector base and dct board, since i will need to solder some wires there to connect leds. i guess 22-20awg wire should be fine, will see.

hopefully experiment will be successful, i just want to narrow the beam and decrease the glare for inc traffic. previously i was modding BL70s with xhp35hi with aspheric lens, but beam intensity wasn’t enough so bought these lights instead.

anyway, thanks for the help guys.

I have also posted this in the L2/L6 modding thread, but this might be just the more appropriate place to ask :wink:

So i took the gamble and just ordered the L21a to build a nice thrower
Together with some high drain 21700 Shockli cells and the famous Led4Power 3030 MCPCB with OSRAM KW CSLNM1.TG and another OSRAM KW CSLPM1.TG

I am planning to keep the original driver, but still doubting which LED to use, @6A the 1mm might be just overdriven and the 2mm might be just underdriven.

What are your opinions?

I would go for the 1mm and remove the spring bypass.

If you take my test of the 2mm2 White Flat as guidance, at 6A you are at 120% of the maximum rated current and 93% of absolute maximum output, is that what you call underdriven? :open_mouth:

The 1mm2 gives less output and a bit more throw. The driver is regulated at 6A? You may want to look at the convoy store, they have a similar driver regulated at 5A if I remember well.

Ok Jos, you convinced me :wink:
I’ll try the 2mm, otherwise i can still swap in the 1mm to see the difference and burn the S*@T out of it

Since when do we play safe?

Good luck with your build :wink: