It’s not the only one. And may not be the best one.
The one that I see as potentially best is with use of air permeable membrane (gore-tex-like) that allows air to move in and out without letting water in.

Well Enderman we don’t actually need diving zoomie. Or maybe you need one? :laughing: Orings are more than suitable for regular IPX something usage of light. I did tests where I tossed regular 1503 light just modded with different thicker sets of oring into a bucket of 25 liters of water for 24 hours and there were no water leak into light or switch :wink: . Brinyte B158 should also survive mentioned situation but without any modding with better orings.

I don’t find extra flat lens on top as necessity for waterproofing but it ain’t bad as idea… There are zoomies that use front lens Curui 1706 and CRELANT 7G5CH.

But simple double Oring combination everywhere and I would prefer thread twisting/rotating zoomie since your mentioned effect “internal air pressure would make the head simply bounce back into the original position” will not happen with threaded zoomie action because such action is powerful enough to squeeze air out of the zoomie neck section with double(or even triple oring) during head twisting action.

I had a look at the zoomie lights mentioned but not really much use for such a tiny hotspot. Sounds ridiculously small for Tom to have trouble measuring the lux

Does any know which driver I could use in my BLF GT with the W1. I’m sure it would have ridiculous throw.

I haven’t modded my GT with a different driver yet, but a SRK/Q8 size driver sounds close enough to adapt? Mtn Electronics I believe sells a SRK driver that works only from a bank of 7135 chips, without additional FET, so you can load it with the exact amount of current needed for the W1.

(And the cell carriers must be adapted to parallel of course)

I had the FW1 in a BLF GT…

The CULNM1.TG 1mm is better 1.4Mcd. Still need testing and tuning/focusing and at longer distances outside, the weather has been cold and rainy for the last 4 days… Posted last week in the “what did you mod” thread for the rest of the build.

Pics of the FW1…

This pic is deceiving in real life it’s just a small micro dot hitting the top of this tree at this distance the beam is still narrowing down….culminating down… is that the right technical word?

Threaded zoomies are hard to change focus with a single hand.
If air can squeeze past a double or triple o-ring, then it’s either a bad design or a crappy o-ring.
In a case like that, the air should compress, or there should be vacuum, long before any air gets past a properly positioned o-ring.
The amount of volume change inside a focusing light is not a ton, so I would be very concerned if air was getting past your o-rings.
Definitely not IPX8 or 9 in that case.

Yeah that still wouldn’t work underwater where there is no air though.

Enderman the God has made us two hands :slight_smile: . Zoomie light ain’t PCP air rifle so softer kind of orings in flashlight is just enough. They don’t have to be made out of harder materials and to snugly fitted so they can enable air pressure loos during focusing action while they will still easily maintain waterproof level. So it does not make me concerned even tiny bit… Everything is like it should be. There is no other way…

And did you missed out 24 hours test in a bucket of water? Is that not enough? There is also thread in CPF and few tube videos with waterproof test of these zoomies if you don’t trust me.

So if you want diving light buy a diving light(there are 80% of nation that won’t dive) but if you want regular waterproof zoomie that can be easily achieved and without any fuss and talking about that and reflector lights should certainly not be considered as only good and reliable waterproof lights only because of totally untrue waterproof failure stigma on zoomie lights.

Even that “bad” one handed action, push-pull non waterproof zoomies will withstand heavy rain, drop in a puddle of water etc… So they are more than waterproof for most EDC carry tasks.

A lot here depends on use. In your use 2-handed zooming is fine - and that’s fine. I’m with Enderman in finding it undesirable. Actually for my use it’s a deal breaker because what I love about zoomies is how slight hand movements make the focus follow my eyes. For that to work zooming must be very fast which doesn’t work at all with twisty zoomies and works badly with push-pull ones that have thick o-rings.
So…not all zoomie uses are the same and not all waterproofing attempt works equally well for all cases.

Not sure if you’ve ever used a led lenser zoomie, but the one-handed focusing is far superior to any kind of twist focus.
Instantly focus or unfocus the light while you carry or are doing something with your other hand.

Also, your little water bucket test will of course pass, the real test is when you have 1 or 2m of water pressure on top.
We’re not talking about 30m+ diving here, just the kind of pressure you get if it falls in a pool or gets sprayed with a water hose.
Much more pressure than a few centimeters of water in a bucket.

Put together a c8+ with 21700 bat and 5400k flat white 2mm(I think its called m21a)

Very nice throwy beam but more usable than flat white 1mm.
Does heat up fast with stock 4 mode 6amp driver.

Still waiting for ss bezel…

weight is little to high for edc. Normal c8+ is better.

Post #1000!

(at the moment)


Did you use a centering and and where did you get it? MTN is out of stock

I got mine on the Convoy AliExpress store

Oh thanks found it, I was searching with the wrong keywords, centering ring and spacer and it was “gasket”

I also put together a C8 with 2mm WF a bit ago using convoy’s configurable linear driver. Did ~180kcd at the max ~7.5A.

As far as centering rings what I have done is just glue the XP or XM centering ring down on the MCPCB in the correct location. I find I can get it nearly perfect just by eye. I have even been known to use double sided tape in a pinch. :innocent:

Gluing it is better than using the 3030 gasket as it’s not always perfectly centered. Love the centering rings that are cut precisely for the led, not just a circle.

Nice to know. As it happened with my M1 with customized weird ramping firmware driver (current-limited to 5A theoretical by replacing the sense resistor stack), where the effective output current was a bit less at ≈4.75A. I also had to custom file a 3535 gasket back then, and ended up obtaining 101+Kcd on a cold start.

I am to build an M2 now, too. Reflector area wise, the M2 is 81.169% the surface of the M1. So, your build looks to be right as it is.

Wed, 04/29/2020 - 06:48

What driver did you use?

How is that mcpcb being held down?