Medieval, the P31 beats the S1 in terms of throw. In flood, it doesnt, or is very similar
Interesting (from DrJ): The UniqueFire AA-S1  (10$) has a big, smooth, but quite bright spot and thus a good total brightness (total luminous power) in this group. With it's small Golden Dragon emitter it should be able to be a better thrower (if that's what you want); I assume the position of the emitter relative to the reflector isn't optimal in that respect
Might have to try a small spacer between the emitter and reflector.
It's curious that they used a OP reflector in the light. the osram may be good enough for smooth one. As if it's not already floody enough...
The Ultrafire RL-118 is an Osram Golden dragon led
Thanks for all your input, I now have a little more to work with.
phlowcus and Xrayboy I forgot to mension that I allready have bought the BlackCat (Red) for my wife.
I did not know that the KD version is a warm white. Like Mr Admin I like that, so I may try a version from them.
Acording to Fran82 it may soon be difficult to get a S1 from DX. I hate to not having mine, so I better order one now
so I have one as spare.
Charlestt do you (or others) have any experience with the RL118?
If you know of a Golden Dragon light please inform me, thanks.
Great! Now there are two lights I need. I may need to get a neutral (not really warm if it is 5000K) Black Cat and the AA S1. I don't have any Osram lights.
Either of these forward clicky? KD says the Black Cat has a slide switch, but it's a tail clicky, right? All are one mode?
Well, I went ahead and got the S1. Then I can get a Black Cat later.
Don't forget about BestOfferBuy.com, they have almost everything that DX carries for about the same price, and they sell a lot less, so they might be able to offer some of the more scarce items still.
That Black Cat is warm white, at least the one I got. Here's the so called 5000k vs. a normal Black Cat:
Hi Nautic yes i have the ultrafire RL118 it's an amazing little light
I did a review of the RL-118 on Jayki.com
Still one of my favourite lights but it is not perfect. I like it a lot....
Holy cow. That really is warm. Does it really look that orange? Or only side-by-side? Thanks for the great picture.
Very nice color on the left there! How do they achieve that, with phosphates in the dome around the light? Could you please give us the URL of the one on the left phlowcus? Thanks!
That's not 5000k at all. Warm white like that is ~3000k.
sb56637: Warm like this done by more phosphorus applied in the led coating so more blue gets translated to lower energy spectra (like how crt's work).
What I"m curious about is they have this one: http://www.kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=9954
Which is indicated as "yellow" instead of 5k, costs slightly more, but looks to have same warm beam?? I guess I'll see how yellow the 5k from kaidomain is once it arrives.
I was the one that mentioned the FocalPrice C78 had an ugly beam at both flood and full zoom. My Romisen RC-C6 has the best flood mode. The beam is a perfect uniform really big round beam. My Romisen does not throw nearly as well as my KD MXDL SA-28 though.
I have a sa-28, too. But I messed it up a bit when I popped off the lens on the emitter when wipping it down. Apparently those are just glued on. So I superglued it back on (gluing only around the edge) and now it has a patch of yellow in full throw, which it goes away after a few min? I suppose it's because of the heat, but I would've expected it to change geometry and not color...
Yellow patch is sort of weird. My SA-28 and Romisen are both out of focus when I twist/pull the head all the way out. I have to twist/pull it back a little to make it be focused. Is your SA-28 like that too?
I don't have the romisen, but all of my zoom lights are in focus at all the way out. Maybe just lucky, or they mounted the board too high on mine. :)
There is a difference on brightness figures between the review and your spreadsheet on lumens estimate?
Is this a result of different batteries?
Yes - it would barely work with my protected RCR123s and on checking the current draw I bought some IMR 16340s. It will work with unprotected RCR123s but the current draw wasn't what I'd consider safe.
Don also tested the S1 on JAYKI . While I liked the body on the S1, I disliked the small mushy, rubbery switch which was hard to operate. After a while I totally disliked the beam colour, because it was no "warm" tint but a yellow epoxy layer (think like a yellow lens). So I gave it away.
If I may quote myself (from Jayki):
Ah, I found my bag of black 18mm O-rings and did the test myself. Black O-rings don't change the general tint of the light, only the very outer rim of the spill is more white. So there is basically 2 tints in the beam. I changed it back to the GITD O-ring. The emitter itself seems to have an epoxy layer coating, maybe that's the reason for the yellow-green tint. (I'm almost certain ;-) ) My Tank007 E07 was more white and is supposed to have the same emitter. Still a great little light and my ultra budget recommendation when you don't mind the tint colour.
My recommendation for a 1xAA with a CREE is the supreme Hugsby P32 (review of the P31 which has the same body but the p32 has 3 modes and at least mine is slightly brighter) and the Tank E07 (review) if you want a small 1XAA OSRAM. I have given the S1 and the E07 away, I'm glad I got rid of the S1 but I'm considering buying the E07 again for myself.... it's not the brightest ... but had a very nice beam and was the smallest 1xAA I've ever owned.
emitter itself seems to have an epoxy layer coating, maybe that's the reason for the yellow-green tint.
Are you sure it's not just the phospher layer?