How hard was it to swap the stock emitters to 519a, and how were the results?
Surprisingly easy.
- Lockout the light (4 clicks) - this step isn’t required, but is recommended.
- Unscrew the 4 screws at the front - I was lucky I happened to have the right size driver at hand. No idea what size it is. It came with some other light or clip. So long as you have the right size driver, unscrewing the screws is easy.
- Lift off the bezel, lens and reflector.
- Lift off the 3 plastic spacers around each LED. This reveals the fairly large rectangular star.
- Desolder the 2 driver wires
- Lift out the star
- Reflow your emitters of choice onto the star.
- Replace the stock thermal compound with fresh. I use Arctic Silver 5.
- Reassemble.
So far I’ve done this on two different Wuben X2s with no issue. Once the bezel is unscrewed it’s pretty much just like any other reflow. Just be careful not to mess up since the star is irreplaceable.
If this is your first reflow you might want to practice on other cheaper lights first just to learn the technique.
I’m much happier with Nichia 519a inside these lights. The beam pattern is good, reds pop more, and not having the greenish tint makes everything look better.
Here’s a video on Youtube someone made showing how to swap emitters on the Wuben X2
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Thank you for the encouraging reply and detailed instructions!!
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Ah, another unobtainium Peu bezel. My NovaTac (Spa Defense) 120P has a Peu bezel too. I was tempted a number of times to modify that old flashlight, drooling over the triple emitters that various people installed in it. I even scaled back that thought to just put in a replacement emitter. But later deemed the effort not worth it, considering the relatively inexpensive availability of great quality Anduril flashlights now at hand. Something about keeping it fully stock seems to resonate with me. It still sits on a shelf where I can see the tritium at night.
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One other route you can go, which is much cheaper and easier – filters. minus-green, in particular. Either adhere directly to the front of the glass or tuck inside under the glass.
Yeah, that would be great if I had the LH351D version. Mine is the P9.
I am not so sure if I want to swap it to 519a after all. The efficiency and throw of the P9 is hard to beat, makes it the perfect bike light.
I will put some #3 dc-fix on it though, as the beam distribution is great, but has some artifacts.
How much throw might I sacrifice moving to 519a? Any other emitters you’d recommend?
I will likely replace the battery pack with Vapcell F12 cells eventually.
I still have this oddball sitting around. It’s not the brightest. It’s not the most intuitive UI. But it works and drives two totally different emitter clusters – individually or simultaneously. Regrettably, Niwalker has really not gone anywhere in development going forward (no innovations worth speaking of) and prices have gone up a bit for frankly no good reason (they introduced some new colors–whoopee).
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Those are cool.
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The Niwalker models like these that make use of modular, all-inclusive, ready-to-go, screw-in pills take me back 12 years to one of my all-time favorite models from EagTac (formerly EagleTac), the TX25C2 MKII, which I didn’t realize has been updated.
Perhaps the modular, screw-in pill tech could be advanced to incorporate a USB-C firmware flashing interface.
Imagine buying a pill that meets your needs and flash the firmware of your choice from a repository that has advanced to include a full library of manufacturer and open-source firmwares including Andúril. Then screw it in your host and go. ???
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I bought a couple of these when they were on sale at Amazon. Cool concept but the UI is kind of a bummer. If someone could design a dual channel anduril 2 driver that retains usb-c charging these would be in my pocket all the time!
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I think I might’ve bought mine from Banggood, when they were on sale. After that, even on sale, they were always running about $10 more than what I’d paid. Yeah, the UI is clunky… but at least there’s battery level (3 clicks from off) and blinkies hidden off in a separate menu, like Anduril. Switching between emitters is pretty easy. Ramping is just a little slow, though. Machining is really good. Threading matches easily. I also like that lanyard collar that’s high friction fit, in a contrasting color. Switch is quite good. And USB-C plug is pretty tight. A lot was done well. But somehow Niwalker just couldn’t reach the finish line.
Their modular emitter package is really cool. I think it has a lot of promise. But again, Niwalker bungled that. They never got around to offering them in a desirable set of optional packages. Individually, the cost would soar up too fast, making the flashlight impractical to own. Also, they were remiss at offering 18650 tubes for the ET2, in any reasonable retail venue. You’d have to buy directly from them and face shipping charges higher than the part. Very shortsighted. And writing to them with questions got no response.
Let’s see how many of ya’ll are actually semi-old heads 
NAME THIS LIGHT! (alternate government name also accepted)
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Looks like a…
Spoiler Alert!
BLF-348
I think I have one of those somewhere around the house. 
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I lost the pocket clip a while back…never cared much for it as it always slid off anyways lol.
I do want to update the driver in it though, relative to other AAA form factors this thing gets pretty warm. I ran it for 30m last night on an eneloop, not sure what the total runtime would be.
Great light! It’s a shame these are hard to find nowadays.
I appreciate it’s not particularly waterproof, but the slim format, simple UI, recessed switch and high CRI make this a winner in my books.
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I put together a BLF-TINY10 (1x7135 and five modes) to put in an sf 348 and its one of my favourite lights now! Would highly recommend, though you do lose AAA compatibility.
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