I've run into some problems here lately with modded AA Maglites and it's been an issue I thought might come up more. Oxidation on the copper used in the light, will keep the light from coming on. It does not take very much at all and then the light fails to work.
I made a video about it and what to do, but it's not the real answer and the real answer is probably going to be, not using copper any more, as it oxidizes too rapidly.
This applies for any battery holders done with copper too.
If anyone has issues with their light, feel free to send it back, for me to work on it, or try the "fix" yourselves.
There’s a reason that all contact surfaces that are made of copper are plated with gold or tin… Yep, the stuff oxidizes FAST.
O-L. You can tin plate (or nickel and gold) your copper super easily at home. Check out http://www.caswellplating.com/
Then these issues won’t be issues…
PPtk
P.S. the other option (already mentioned) is to put a thin coat of tin-lead solder on the contact surfaces. It can be REALLY thin.
Used to be called Pro-Gold (another name now): ridiculously expensive for a tiny bottle/brush, but really kept the rca connections on some vintage hifi equipment I had from oxidizing.
How about trying some CRC 2-26? The can says it “leaves a thin, molecular, non-hardening film” that prevents corrosion and “improves electrical properties” and it’s under $3 at HD.
Yeah, I tin both the positive button and the ground ring on my copper pills but don’t have the wealth of experience yet to know whether it is sufficient.
For this type of application, there really isn’t any major benefit. The plating will still be perfectly flat (like the underlying metal), which is an advantage, but it’s not an earth shattering one…
After soldering, be sure to clean off any residual flux with some alcohol. hardened flux is not (or not very) conductive and some fluxes can be hard as a rock so that you don’t get electrical contact with the solder.
Yep, I watched the video and thought, why not just tin the surface with solder but it appears a few others have beaten me to it with the same idea.
One thing though, wouldn't trying to apply solder to an assembled pill like the one shown in the clip be a bit tricky - especially since the bottom bit is already soldered to the driver? I can see this as something to be done by O-L before assembly but I'm not sure how easy it would be to do afterwards.
I would also wonder about the wisdom of putting steel wool down into the glued pill and moving it around with a pick as shown. How likely would this be to leave tiny bits of conductive "dust" that might get into the driver and short or corrode? Just asking since I don't own one of these little masterpieces unfortunately.
One day I'll make enquiries about a maglite with nichia 219. Really like Justin's work!
Well, it’s either that or leave it not working. Anything that would scrub the copper clean, would leave some kind of bits of something. It probably would help to clean it with the head facing upright, so most of the stuff would fall out. A piece of Scotch-brite pad might work too. Whatever works, to clean up the Copper. Polish of any type does not work, as it leaves a film on the Copper and breaks contact.
I don’t think it’s likely as the dust will not form a long enough chain to bridge any connections and cause a short. Also, there’s not much dust if you clean it without using too much force. It sounds extremely unlikely in my opinion.
If its glued in then I don’t think any of the wool or copper dust would get to the driver. Only the negative ring and positive post are exposed to the steel wool. On the pills that do come out if it is a possible issue then just apply a piece of tape around the pill before rubbing to keep the driver clean. It may be coated with RMA flux and already be protected though.
On a corollary note, if the negative contact ring touches the head and wears through the anodizing and also the threads become de anodized though wear the light will not be able to turn off or change modes(if it has a driver). I had this problem with the 14650 silver mini I made and had to make sure the negative ring was insulated from the head.
I was in the auto parts store the other day to get a headlight bulb and they suggested I buy grease for the connection. They do the same for battery terminals. Also I have seen switches with it inside also. I know it is counter intuitive but the grease will help prevent oxidation. Go to an auto supply parts store.
