No you dont.. well actually you do, but we still like you. <3 :D
Some topics are connected.. screw-in drop-ins (screw-ins?) and C8 for example, because the C8 form factor basically is a screw-in.. screw-in.
The A8 has a very similar size reflector to the P60 and goes one step further than having a screw in pill by having the LED and driver mounted directly to the flashlight housing.
Thats one too many steps. I’ve got more drop-ins than host so pill swapping on the P60 style is what I would look for. C8 is nice but not nearly as popular. P60 hits a wall with thermal issues with the pill actually hanging from the screwed on reflector. Take it too a C8 style but with the pill screwed in from below and now all my lttle P60/D26 pills have a better thermal path. I love the lego formats and but fear that the P60 drop-in is near the end of its box of tricks. Which is sad as its size is perfect doing about 90% of my flashlight needs.
Hi,
I was wondering if anyone has actually tried (and made it work) a P60 drop-in in a TF-R2? If so, can you explain what else you needed to make that work, and if possible, post some pics?
I currently have 1, and maybe 2 of them “maybe” (bought from some websites that I haven’t heard about before) coming in, and the main reason is to try some P60 drop-ins with them.
Thanks,
Jim
My understanding is that yes, the p60 pill does screw in to the the tf-r2 head, but with minor modification… (filing of some sort?)
I am interested in this as well… just trying to decide on whether the price of the tf-r2 is worth it, or, for the additional price of the parts, if it would just be better to mod another complete flashlight….
You need to file down the bottom lip of the pill to clean the treads on the side of the pill. I can get a pic later if you guys need it
that would be great!…
in your opinion (or other more experienced BLFers out there…) are the heat sinking qualities of this particular lamp that much better than purchasing another light in this (~$30) price point?
thanks again!
Pulsar,
Yes, one (or more) pictures would be great.
The thing is, when this comes up, a lot of people seem to be interested.
As I posted on the FastTech thread, based on some stuff that I’ve found, I’m pretty sure that they COULD source it (i.e., I know that they are still available and can be available to FastTech). But, I think it’d only be worth pursuing if this compatibility is actually true, and more to the point, I don’t want to be bugging them (and others here) to get it if it turns out to be worthless.
I don’t mind spending a few bucks to order them from somewhat sketchy places, like I’ve already done, but I definitely don’t want to one of the ones pushing FastTech to source it if it is going to turn out to be not “P60-compatible”.
I think that if some minor mods are needed, like filing a lip off, is not bad, but if it’s a humongous amount of mods needed, then it’ll probably be considered “not compatible” for a lot of folks (including myself). Plus, per the other thread, what I really think makes more sense (if it is “almost” compatible) would be if someone like FastTech could offer them as hosts, rather than as complete flashlights.
Sorry. I know that I’m probably being a bit pushy and “obsessed” with this :(…
Later,
Jim
thats your p60 pill
the flat part that the large spring goes around needs to be slightly filed down for the threads to clear so it will screw all the way in. very easy and minor.
i would not say that its the best of the best in heat management, but it is leaps and bounds above an actual p60 host
Hi,
In case you haven’t seen it, take a look at post #1479:
Jim
Pulsar,
Looking at the pictures you posted, do you mean that:
1) You have to remove the driver from the P60 pill, then
2) File the “bottom” side of the pill so that it’s effectively “shorter”, then
3) Solder the driver back into the “bottom” side of the pill?
And, it’s because the normal P60 pill is too “long”?
I haven’t worked with that many P60s, so I just wanted to make sure I understood.
Jim
Edit: Also, so if I wasn’t working with an already-built P60 pill, but rather something like one of those P60 pill kits, with just the bare pill and reflector, that I’d just have to make the bottom part of the pill shorter before adding the emitter PCB to the top of the pill and the driver to the bottom of the pill?
no, the solid section between the bottom of the pill and the threads needs to be filed down slightly so the diameter is smaller than the threads. it can all be done with the driver and star still attached.
sorry, i didnt explain it all too well. its not because the pill is too long, the shoulder keeps it from threading in all the way.
i will see if i can find the tr-r2 pill to get a side by side of the differences
BIG EDIT!: i lied. that is the actual tf-r2 pill! but you get the idea of what needs to be done by it… sorry!
At first, I thought that that (making the diameter smaller) was what you were saying, but I kept thinking that if you do that, wouldn’t you risk damaging the threads? Then I was looking at the 2nd pic, and it looked shorter.
So anyway, then, you DID mean to reduce the diameter of the non-threaded part that is below the threaded part, right?
yeah, it was not much, 5-10 mins of filing. you just need to take enough off so the pill is able to screw all the way in
Hi,
Ok, thanks. I think that even I could do that (gotta go buy a file but :laughing:!
Did you see the post from FastTech about the TF-R2?
Edit: Actually, I was wondering: Would reducing the diameter of the non-threaded area even affect the original P60 functionality? What I mean is that you should still be able to use the drop-in in a regular P60 host again, even after modifying it, wouldn’t you?
probably it would depend on whether or not there is enough of a lip left to sit in a regular p60 case… or perhaps an additional wrap at the bottom to compensate…. given the heat sinking issues with the regular p60 i think filing it down is not going to help if using it in a p60 host….
It would be cool if the idea in the OP became reality. One could get a die (as in tap & die) so that they could continue the threads down further on the P60 pill for more contact area.
That reminds me of this flashlight: http://dx.com/p/mx-power-3w-cree-p4-wc-150-lumen-led-flashlight-gray-1-cr123a-14905
Compact 1xCR123 that fit the DX MC-E P60 pill.
do you have this light? have you done this mod before?
thanks!
The Dereelight uses a P60 pill and screws in
They got standard hosts and aspherical stuff too
http://www.dereelight.com/dbs-t.htm