Potting compound for building a tank light

Enderman · 2018-10-15T00:27:40.000Z

Tom Tom:

Potting is a brutal thing to do to a circuit, unless you don’t care to ever look at it again. Just toss it if something goes wrong. It is generally a cheap solution for cheap things, that don’t justify any skilled workmanship.

As for “thermally conductive” compounds, once you study the numbers you may find that it just means “not as thermally insulating as the worst compounds, but still not great”

There is also a halfway-house using stuff like Raytech Magic Gel, which is not bad.

The OP is looking for ghetto ways of potting using locally available materials, at affordable local prices. I can’t really advise, because I’ve never been in that situation.

If the primary reason is for shock and vibration resistance, then yes, potting is the best idea.

Potting is what you do when you want something to last as long as possible in the harshest of conditions.
Anyone who knows what potting is knows that if something dies you basically have to replace the whole circuit, that’s not a concern because electronics circuits last decades when designed correctly.
Also the point of potting is prevention.
That means you sacrifice repairability in order to make it last longer so that you don’t need to repair it.

2) Not all potting is permanent, some can be removed, as seen here inside my hellfighter:

3) thermally conductive depends on which one you use.
The one I linked earlier is close to 1W/mk which is many times higher than air.
It is not the same as a thermal paste which is 5-10W/mk but still good enough for preventing overheating of the PCB components.

Potting is good for waterproofing, cooling, AND shock resistance, assuming you buy one which is designed for all 3.
Not just shock resistance.
Please do some research.

KawiBoy1428 · 2018-10-15T00:49:57.000Z

I use Stycast when it’s in the shop, but I also use MG Chemicals. Both work excellent. You have to watch what you use, some thermal epoxy can be electrically conductive, I bricked a Convoy L6 once.

This is what I use from MG Chemicals

amazon.com

MG Chemicals 832TC-450ML Thermally Conductive Epoxy Encapsulating and Potting...

MG Chemicals 832TC-450ML Thermally Conductive Epoxy Encapsulating and Potting Compound, 15 oz Kit, Black: Epoxy Adhesives: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

Macka17 · 2018-10-15T01:35:04.000Z

Why don’t you just send an email to a “good” name torch MFG.
and ask them what. if anything they use. (Tech Services dep’t.)
They can only tell you to piss orft.

Then we ALL may just learn something new.
Most I’ve seen have been either grey or black.

The old “tar” chips we used to get from road laying crews
we used for everything.
Melted, it stuck everything together. and free hey.
It was great to chew on too. very tangy.

Barkuti · 2018-10-15T01:41:43.000Z

Stars-922 may be a nice option: https://www.ebay.com/itm/HY410-STARS-922-Thermal-Compound-Sink-Silicone-CGPU-Silikon-Grease-Glue/163170389586

Takes a little while to harden, it depends on volume to area ratio. No volumetric shift. Once hardened remains slightly fexible but has adequate stiffness. I used this compound to stick an Omten 1288 inside an SK98 pogo switch retaining part whose slot is for bigger switches, like this one: http://kaidomain.com/S024498-DIY-LED-Flashlight-Reverse-Clicky-Switch-14_8mm-x-9_6mm-for-LED-Flashlight. After hardening took the pogo retainer out of my vise and could easily sand down the protruding plaster excesses. Worked like a charm.

Can be removed later with a bit of patience and some spirits help: alcohol, white spirit, gasoline, etc.

Worth a try imho.

Cheers :-)

tvizk · 2018-10-15T02:33:01.000Z

Macka17:

Why don’t you just send an email to a “good” name torch MFG.
and ask them what. if anything they use. (Tech Services dep’t.)
They can only tell you to piss orft.

Then we ALL may just learn something new.
Most I’ve seen have been either grey or black.

The old “tar” chips we used to get from road laying crews
we used for everything.
Melted, it stuck everything together. and free hey.
It was great to chew on too. very tangy.

Well, I do know PFlexPro uses Stycast (can’t recall product number) which isn’t available in small quantities.

Boaz · 2018-10-15T02:34:10.000Z

How about urathane that they use to put windsheilds in with ? Pretty tuff stuff

texas_shooter · 2018-10-15T04:26:37.000Z

Thanks for the input. I work in Texas with heat, rain, humidity and things that fly across parking lots. Big fan of the P60 from SolarForce with premium Pflexpro dropins. These could spend two days in the pool with out worry of water getting in or parts breaking. I’m moving into 20700 and 21700 lights for better run time and output. Those USB style charging port are the new weak points. I’m looking at the Mateminco TK01/Astrolux FT01 as a possible replacement along with the Wuben A21. I’ve got no illusions that they might not make the grade. I think potting will give them a better chance. Once again thanks for the help.

joechina · 2018-10-15T16:33:27.000Z

I think Dale used Sugru to secure things in the driver cavity.
It is a self curing silicon.

tvizk · 2018-12-20T15:14:49.000Z

So, I made another M1 with the exact same parts since I gave away the first one for the other guy to abuse. This time, I mixed some Fujik with some 8w/mk thermal paste and applied that onto the driver covering the components. On the solder joints, I just covered it entirely in Fujik. I’ll try to get some abuse footage to see how well it holds up when I have the time.

Jack_Kellar · 2018-12-20T15:20:07.000Z

tvizk:

So, I made another M1 with the exact same parts since I gave away the first one for the other guy to abuse. This time, I mixed some Fujik with some 8w/mk thermal paste and applied that onto the driver covering the components. On the solder joints, I just covered it entirely in Fujik. I’ll try to get some abuse footage to see how well it holds up when I have the time.

Nice, looking forward to it already :+1:

teacher · 2018-12-20T16:43:33.000Z

Jack Kellar:

tvizk:

So, I made another M1 with the exact same parts since I gave away the first one for the other guy to abuse. This time, I mixed some Fujik with some 8w/mk thermal paste and applied that onto the driver covering the components. On the solder joints, I just covered it entirely in Fujik. I’ll try to get some abuse footage to see how well it holds up when I have the time.

Nice, looking forward to it already :+1:

Yep, looking good.
I had no idea Duracell sold 18650’s.

tvizk · 2018-12-21T09:33:40.000Z

teacher:

Jack Kellar:

tvizk:

So, I made another M1 with the exact same parts since I gave away the first one for the other guy to abuse. This time, I mixed some Fujik with some 8w/mk thermal paste and applied that onto the driver covering the components. On the solder joints, I just covered it entirely in Fujik. I’ll try to get some abuse footage to see how well it holds up when I have the time.

Nice, looking forward to it already :+1:

Yep, looking good.
I had no idea Duracell sold 18650’s.

Hah! Just a little bit of Photoshopping and a clear wrap. Doesn’t look so good since my printer was low on ink but meh, close enough.

teacher · 2018-12-21T18:56:30.000Z

tvizk:

teacher:

Jack Kellar:

tvizk:

Nice, looking forward to it already :+1:

Yep, looking good.
I had no idea Duracell sold 18650’s.

Hah! Just a little bit of Photoshopping and a clear wrap. Doesn’t look so good since my printer was low on ink but meh, close enough.

:person_facepalming: . :person_facepalming: . Well, ya’ got me!! . Nice job…. :+1: .

SSSmodlight · 2018-12-21T21:04:07.000Z

oh… di sini rupanya perbincangan berlaku

nice work… waiting for the abuse footage…
the other one convoy s2+ is potted with the same compound?

tvizk · 2018-12-21T23:34:35.000Z

SSSmodlight:

oh… di sini rupanya perbincangan berlaku

nice work… waiting for the abuse footage…
the other one convoy s2+ is potted with the same compound?

Haha… Yeah I’ll pot the S2+ when I have the time.

tvizk · 2018-12-22T15:00:51.000Z

Had some free time today so I decided to have some fun with the M1. Some abuse, and played some small sport with it, kick bowling, baseball, and miniature golf. Also worth mentioning, I actually did everything in the first clip 3 times because the first 2 clips sucked.

Aftermath:

This was most likely due to the stiff spring I had on the driver. It’s bypassed with 20awg and I cut it a little too short, but meh, still works… ¯\/¯

KawiBoy1428 · 2018-12-22T12:51:54.000Z

Nice work (over) on the M1 Here is a vid from 2015 and the written review.

Austin Police Department Marksmanship Team | Texas Law Enforcement Multigun... – 29 Mar 15

PFlexPro flashlight review - Austin Police Department Marksmanship Team |...

The first light I used on patrol was a surefire 6p led. This was a decent light. The technology in led lights advanced quickly and newer more efficient and brighter ...

Est. reading time: 26 minutes

My Surefire M3 D36 XHP70.2 module fully potted, reflector, copper heat sink and driver, fully encapsulated in thermal potting.

tvizk · 2018-12-22T13:01:50.000Z

KawiBoy1428:

Nice work (over) on the M1 :+1: Here is a vid from 2015 and the written review.

YouTube

http://apdmarksmanshipteam.org/blog/pflexpro-flashlight-review/

My Surefire M3 D36 XHP70.2 module fully potted, reflector, copper heat sink and driver, fully encapsulated in thermal potting.

Yeah, I’ve been inspired by that video and have always had a thing for overbuilt things which is why I decided to make one like that. Before that, I never knew lights could be waterproof even without the lens which was amazing to me.

KawiBoy1428 · 2018-12-22T13:19:46.000Z

Try restricting the battery movement, most real weapon lights have a shoulder in the battery tube anode side to keep the battery from impacting the spring/driver, protecting both driver and cell(s) maybe use o-rings to restrict movement. I also added extra shrink wraps to batteries that have oversize battery tubes, so they just slide in, now I size the inside of the battery tube and polish to fit specially in my 2S tubes. Just my 2cents.

tvizk · 2018-12-22T14:22:53.000Z

KawiBoy1428:

Try restricting the battery movement, most real weapon lights have a shoulder in the battery tube anode side to keep the battery from impacting the spring/driver, protecting both driver and cell(s) maybe use o-rings to restrict movement. I also added extra shrink wraps to batteries that have oversize battery tubes, so they just slide in, now I size the inside of the battery tube and polish to fit specially in my 2S tubes. Just my 2cents.

I do actually want to add some Fujik to the anode side but it wouldn’t be removable. Or I could add Fujik around the spring avoiding the retaining ring but I absolutely hate working with it. It’s gooey and sticky and needs to be delicately cut to shape when dried. For now, I think a washer should work pretty well.