(prototype)  the GT Mini

Lightbringer · 2019-08-16T21:44:26.000Z

TrueRMS:

Anyone have throw numbers and/or beamshots with a dome on XP-L or even XM-L2? Looking for a further throwing “walk around” light (and willing to sacrifice throw to loose the pensil beam it has now with the SST-20).

The form factor is ideal [to me] for camping / hunting / hiking in heavily wooded area but the tight spot and minimal spill make it not good for that. I’d rather it be a usable light than a shelved mini thrower.

First, does it have to be a mini? It’s kinda ruining what makes it “special”.

The C8’s about the same size, and easier to mod. Lotta other lights, too.

Second, stick-on diffusion film would give you what you want, and be 100% reversible by simply peeling it off.

hodor · 2019-08-16T22:12:53.000Z

Th558:

How do you remove the driver?

Courtesy of goshdogit

TrueRMS · 2019-08-17T02:10:47.000Z

Lightbringer:

First, does it have to be a mini? It’s kinda ruining what makes it “special”.

The C8’s about the same size, and easier to mod. Lotta other lights, too.

Second, stick-on diffusion film would give you what you want, and be 100% reversible by simply peeling it off.

If I’m ruining a product I own by making it better suited for my needs so be it.

I like the C8, I have 2, it doesn’t provide the beam I was after. The GT mini has better proportions for my hand (shorter, more comfy to cary), it doesn’t force me to hold it like a tactical light because of the side button, also because of the side button it runs Anduril giving me a infinite ramping interface and battery check and more fun modes for around the campfire (which it can also simulate lol) and IMO looks better then any C8.

Your second point is a good option I hadn’t considered on such a light (I have DC-fix on several smaller lights) and would probably work just as well but I had previously built the light just for numbers using a CW SST-20 (like way over 6000k) and needed to do an led swap to make it usable at all again and the end result was just perfect for me so I doubt I’ll be making any more changes on it now.

BlueSwordM · 2019-08-17T02:24:17.000Z

Yeah, I prefer the GT Mini in general.

Better overall design, better heat dissapation, better stock spring setup(BeCu driver and dual steel on the tailcap), and more throw at the same power level.

The only thing I would change would be to make it into a super thrower with an SST-20 5000k 70CRI, or a balanced thrower with an LH351D 90CRI.

hodor · 2019-08-17T10:21:52.000Z

Where’s the best place to get dogfarts these days? I could be tempted to mod a balanced thrower.

Lightbringer · 2019-08-17T17:41:53.000Z

hodor:

Where’s the best place to get dogfarts these days?

Th558 · 2019-08-17T22:15:01.000Z

So I made new holes to fit L4Ps 3030 white flat board…but now the switch comes in the way of one of the screws. I was thinking of using the original screw holes and making new ones for he wires which is what I should’ve done first but I kinda messed them up so the screws just fall out. I guess I could find new screws that fit.

Cereal_killer · 2019-08-18T00:37:55.000Z

The main purpose of the screws is anti-rotation while you’re assembling it, pressure from the reflector holds the mcpcb down onto the shelf well already. As long as the l4p board is the same thickness as the original you should be absolutely fine with just one screw.

Cereal_killer · 2019-08-18T00:41:24.000Z

hodor:

Where’s the best place to get dogfarts these days? I could be tempted to mod a balanced thrower.

Arrow has them but now that they don’t do their free shipping anymore there may be a better, Europe based seller for you.

Th558 · 2019-08-21T14:13:44.000Z

So the new driver doesn’t fit…it’s just loose. Do I need some kind of glue to hold it in place? Also I noticed that the wires are a tiny bit thinner and one of the components is different. I think it’s the FET.

hodor · 2019-08-21T16:46:44.000Z

Lightbringer:

hodor:

Where’s the best place to get dogfarts these days?

JasonWW · 2019-08-21T20:03:21.000Z

Th558:

So the new driver doesn’t fit…it’s just loose. Do I need some kind of glue to hold it in place? Also I noticed that the wires are a tiny bit thinner and one of the components is different. I think it’s the FET.

Isn’t it supposed to be loose? It’s the same diameter as the first one right? Once you screw the battery tube on it will be held firmly in place. Or you can add a dab of glue.

I would not worry about the differences. The FET should still be fine, the company that makes the driver probably bought a new batch of FETs which have a different number on them.

Are you measuring the wire or the insulation? Insulation thickness can vary, but it has no effect on the performance. If the wire is thinner gauge it can add a little more resistance. This can be good or bad depending on what you want. Thinner wire can slightly reduce the amp draw on the LED while a thicker wire can slightly increase the amp draw.

hodor · 2019-08-21T20:14:34.000Z

Yeah the driver will be loose (stock is glued) but will be held in place by the battery tube.

Th558 · 2019-08-21T23:17:51.000Z

It’s pretty loose. I left the wires a bit long so the original LED could be put back if needed. The battery tube will hold it so i guess I don’t really need to worry though. The wire does seem slightly thinner but I’m installing a white flat so that can only be a good thing.

Pulstar · 2019-10-28T20:22:13.000Z

After playing with the flimsy switch for quite a bit, i finally decided it’s time to replace the old head with the replacement one i recieved from Neal. Too bad it’s not NW as original is, but CW. I LOVE nw tint on my original head! Is there an easy way to swap the led from one head to another?

JasonWW · 2019-10-29T07:42:30.000Z

Pulstar:

After playing with the flimsy switch for quite a bit, i finally decided it’s time to replace the old head with the replacement one i recieved from Neal. Too bad it’s not NW as original is, but CW. I LOVE nw tint on my original head! Is there an easy way to swap the led from one head to another?

He sent the wrong tint? Bummer.
The only hard part is loosening the bezel. I think they glue them. It might require a blow dryer/heat gun and strap wrenches to loosen it.

Pulstar · 2019-10-29T08:09:03.000Z

Thank you for reply.

I managed to open the bezel with two strap wrenches. I desoldered the leads and replaced the LED. I am really happy i was able to replace it since I won the tint lottery with original one!.

JasonWW · 2019-10-29T09:26:45.000Z

Pulstar:

Thank you for reply.

I managed to open the bezel with two strap wrenches. I desoldered the leads and replaced the LED. I am really happy i was able to replace it since I won the tint lottery with original one!.

Any signs of glue on the thread? I might be remembering wrong and they just assembled them really tight.

hodor · 2019-10-29T11:09:55.000Z

Mine weren’t glued but were extreeemely tight.

Pulstar · 2019-10-30T08:06:59.000Z

There were no signs of loctite on the replacement head, but original one had a few drops. It wasn’t exactly hard to open.