"Pure Copper" Aliexpress S2+ generic. (Edit it's BRASS!)

I think I’m going to pick one of these up…debating on saving ten bucks and gutting the weaker Alonefire, though. I contacted the seller to see if they could sell the light without the whole box/battery/charger kit but they said no.

Nooner, Goose, anyone….is the KD aluminum pill any better than what comes stock in this? Same thing? They list that pill now as a 21.5 x 1mm pitch. Getting ready to order a bunch of bits and bobs from them and will add that pill if it’s worthwhile.

And is the switch rubber 14mm or the usual 16mm?

The brass Alonefire seems to have disappeared from Amazon now, but here’s their Aliexpress page…three options with or without battery, starting at $19.75. Anyone know if the Alonefire is the same switch and pill?

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000892931976.html

Rubber Switch is roughly 14.50mm. I used a Convoy s2+ rubber boot and switch because that’s all I had. The retaining ring needed a brass/copper shim to make proper contact.

The stock pill had a hole in the center. I just added a copper spacer and turned it into a triple.

Thanks, flightless22. I was thinking of modding the switch to take one of Simon’s lighted retrofit ones…sounds like that should be easy enough after enlarging the hole…I was hoping it was the normal 16mm but oh well.

I finally bought it, now I need a transparent lens because this is the UV version and I would like to turn it into a triple

Ps: pure copper brass blacked edition

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Too funny since I just did the same thing, even though I said I would pass on it years ago. But that was well before I ran out of S2+ silicone button variations.

I got mine earlier in the week and also bought the UV version to use as host. I chose the UV version since it appeared from the listing to have a brass pill:

But no, it unfortunately has the same hollow aluminum pill as mentioned above. :frowning_face:

Curious to know how you made yours dark like that? And if you’re in the US, I can mail you a lens since I have some extras.

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Ah, the classic “Neapolitan” light material.

I stained it using birchwood casey brass black

thanks but I live in Italy, I think I will buy it from kaido

in the meantime I put this optics


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I finally got mine done. Nothing fancy with a sliced 4000K 519A and a lighted switch, but it took awhile to get all the parts and many hours to make them fit.

Here are the insides of the Alonefire SV007 UV flashlight:

First of all I wanted to replace the hollow pill. So I ordered the 21_5MM X 9MM ALUMINIUM DRIVER PILLAR SET from KD hoping it would fit since that was not clear from the posts above. It does! And I was able to swap out the aluminum retaining ring with a brass one.

But, half the threads needed to be filed off in order for it to fully screw into the head.

The inside diameter of the flashlight is slightly smaller than a normal S2+, so I had to sand down the perimeter of the green AR lens in order for it to fit. And the reflector hole was an unusual 6mm, but luckily the LED gasket fit the 519A.

For the tail, I replaced the red tailcap with a translucent KD 14MM (D) X 8MM (H) SILICONE TAILCAP. I had to slice off a little of the nub that presses against the switch in order to get the switch to work.

I also made a spacer for the switch so it would stay in place when I screwed on the retaining ring. I made it from an S2 pill by drilling out the middle, filing off the threads, and filing down both ends.

I’m very pleased with how it turned out! Now knowing that Simon is in the process of producing a brass S2+, I may have not purchased this generic version, but it was a fun mod nonetheless.

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You get into the same “challenge” when you want to put an Convoy S2+ (reflector plus pill) in a Convoy S2. The S2 came with a shorter pill and a longer reflector, so from manufacturing point of view there was no need to extent the threads in the head of the S2 to S2+ depth. My solution was not as elegant as yours, I used a bench grinder.

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Good tip on that KD pill being the same threads. Might take a look at that if I next buy something from KD.

I took a chance on another ‘yellow’ Alonefire - quarter of the price of the brass but I thought ‘what if?’ Yeah nah - just an alu host with yellow paint.

It’s one of those ‘jade checking’ lights with the snoot bezel.

Replaced the driver with a 3A 4-mode convoy and a TN3535 emitter. Good enough for a beater light/egg-candling.

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The Alonefire UV flashlight that I got was actually pretty good for a UV flashlight. For the least powerful 3W version, it was plenty bright and the UV filter did a great job at eliminating stray light.

It came with a Seoul Viosys LED. And being brass and only $22, it seems like a good deal.

I also saw that yellow Alonefire jade flashlight, but it said it was made from aluminum alloy vs “copper” so I just went with the UV version.

Is it possible to change the software firmware on this driver? like biscotti?

Here’s the driver:

So performance wise it equals the 700 mA driver used for the good old Convoy S2+ flashlight with Nichia UV led.

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Depends which MCU it uses. I don’t see markings on the driver photo, so would need to get one to check, but if it’s using an attiny (I think it was attiny13 that was used before t85) then it should be doable.

Confirmed, there are no markings on the MCU:

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Do you have an SOIC clip? If not, a cheap one from AE is fine, and get some dupont leads to wire it to a usbasp (Hank’s one will work) and you can run avrdude in test mode (e.g. avrdude -p t13 -c usbasp) and then it will check if the MCU matches the one you specified, and if not, it will give you the device signature that you can look up. List of chips here. I couldn’t find a canonical list of device signatures anywhere but if it gives you one just try searching for it, I guess (it would be in the avrdude source code if nothing else but I’m too busy to go digging there rn).

Just make sure you get the pinout the right way round on the chip with wiring the clip to the usbasp. All the 8 pin DIP AVR MCUs should be the same, but you can double check with a multimeter by checking GND goes to the edge contact and VCC goes to the positive contact (since I don’t see anything that looks like an LDO or similar that would be in the power path, maybe if there’s a small FET on the other side that could be for RPP).
ATtiny85-Pinout

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Sorry, but I don’t have any of that equipment. Maybe someday I’ll get into the whole firmware modding fun.