Easy to measure the screws. All the batch 2's I've seen (maybe bout 6 or so) use M2.5's.
I do 7 brass screws - 4 on the tail PCB for electrical connections, 3 on the reflector/MCPCB for thermal.
Just an observation for Banggood preorder for the Q8 at this time. If I use the BG app (I’m using Android), the pre-order price for the BLF Q8 is $47.50. Cannot use any coupons or points. But if I use computer web browser, the price is $79.95, but I can use the ‘M4DQ8’ code, which brings down the price to $46.50. So it’s $1 cheaper on the computer web browser with code. I don’t see an “App only” indication so I’m not sure why this is so.
What size on the reflector if you don’t mind?
Is vaping popular in India? If so, maybe a local vape shop has some in stock. The vape market is much larger than the flashlight market.
Did a nasty mistake and i fried my Q8’s springs. I put one battery in reverse and it completly toasted my springs. Now they are mushy and batteries don’t even make contact with the brass ring. Do you know where i could find a replacement back pcb with springs?
Thx in advance.
Received it last week. Really like it. It’s made of a strong fabric and it’s a good fit
Damn, second Q8 in this thread…
Could a protection ring prevent this? If so, where do I get one?
Mine did the same thing… it just sat somewhere for over two weeks & then all of a sudden Tracking showed it was in New York City with the USPS.
Most likely yours will be along shortly…….
Well, the springs did their job and prevented a destroyed flashlight.
A polarity protection ring probably would save the springs, but you would have to fabricate it yourself.
I don’t think you can buy the rear pcb, so you’d need to find new springs and solder them on.
Maybe someone knows where to buy springs in that size? I don’t.
Can’t Neal or any other contact in China make the reverse polarity protection rings?
I'm working on a slighter better version, 3D printed as well. Maybe take a couple more days. I printed this one though, it needed some trimming to fit the outer ring, but tested well with a variety of cells: 30Q BT, GA flats, solder top cells, etc. I suggested it for the next batch of Q8's, but The Miller did not respond on it, and has not suggested it to ThorFire on the follow up, so I assume it's a dead issue with ThorFire.
All you have to do is replace the springs - no need to replace the PCB. The springs did their job, acting as a fuse.
It's been posted several times. On batch 2 lights, the center reflector screw is M4 x 10 mm, and the 2 side screws are M2.5 x 10 mm.
Yes, i’m delighted that springs got mushy and lowered the battery so they did not make contact any more with the brass ring.
What is your take on these springs, would they be a low resistance solution for Q8?
Little on the short side and the spring thickness could be thicker - could be little too soft, but maybe the same as the stock ones.
These: http://www.kaidomain.com/p/S027055.DIY-Springs-8mm-x-11mm look better in height, but are spec'd even thinner, so dunno.
To me, 11 mm in height and wire thickness of 0.8 or 0.9 are ideal but can't find them. The old IOS "A" springs are bout perfect.
These: http://www.kaidomain.com/p/S025268.Silver-Coated-Phosphor-Bronze-Spring-6mm-D-x-11mm-H-for-Circuit-Board-Silver-5pcs. I ordered them but they are a little on the soft side though, so prone to the "bump" problem.
> springs … PCB … Thorfire
Miller, would you point out to Thorfire that it’s traditional in most countries to sell replacement parts for products* that may blow parts up, like fuses?
- Except of course for microwave ovens and computers, which usually go into the landfill once a fuse blows (sigh).
Would you please ask TF to consider the company they want to keep, and to make the replacement parts available on an ongoing basis.
In this case either the springs, or populated tail PCBs, would be appropriate to have available.
(That way we may get the benefit of improvements in design over time as well, or so I can hope since you mentioned they’re looking to source better springs …. )
They could, I’d speculate, easily charge $10 for a replacement tail PCB and make money on the deal from early adopters who get a bit careless or want a spare to modify.
If you’re going to sell them, I’m in for 1
I don't know how you can do polarity protection on the battery. You can put it on the mcu, and I guess it's there, but diodes eat voltage. I would think you'd need active circuitry with FET on each battery, or some kind of piece of metal that gets hot and melts, oh wait, yeah, that worked.
You are missing the point. This is about two cells or more put in opposite ways around, into a 4P torch. Consequently creating the most massive double-voltage short.
You can protect against it it mechanically, with a simple plastic disc, that allows positive button-tops to contact, but blocks their flat negative bases.
It is already there, for the circuitry. A diode to protect the MCU. The FET and 7135 have to look after themselves, which they do. Surely you are familiar with the schematic by now ? And no, it eats no voltage from the main LED.
That would be the springs (assuming not bypassed). A real problem to fix for most.
Wish these were in stock!
This thread's a bit mad long now, but in case anyone missed it - your not missing a whole lot between Narsil v1 and v1.2, found the release notes:
For Vers 1.2 2017-10-16:
ADDED : (from MAD777, maybe others) if strobes are disabled, a 2X click from 2X turbo should restore the previous level you were at
FIXED: 4X clicks in modes operation engages lockout - not supposed to
ADDED: operation change: make click&hold in MODES or STROBES wrap from 1st mode to last
FIXED: in LVP switch LED control: the LED sometimes is left on after an LVP drop, and is not blinking the way it should be. The "bug" is that I'm trying to control the switch LEDs from multiple places so it's getting turned off quickly after turned on, and left on when it should be left off. It's a timing thing, so has sort of a random pattern - sometimes left on, sometimes left off. The 8 sec LVP blink need to be qualified better, and should not be calling Setlevel() as is because it wants to control the LED
FIXED: temp stepdown should not happen right away from turn ON. Delay it by 15 seconds
FIXED: for temperature stepdown, in moon mode, a temp stepdown is actually done because moon mode is marked as special level 255, which is considered as a high level of output instead of very low. The stepdown results in the light switching much brighter. This should only happen id the temperature threshold is set to a low temp, or the light is still hot and not cooled down when moon mode is chosen. It can also result in an immediate jump to the stepdown level as soon as the light is turned on in moon mode. Might appear as a bright flash when ramping first starts.
There's more previously implemented:
- added momentary/tactical mode via 5X clicks in ramping mode - only active til a power reset (full turbo only when switch is held down) - It's only accessible from ramping mode, not Mode Set operation
- full BLF GT buck driver support
- capability of setting max ramping to less than full max FET (Hi mode), while the 2X click still goes to full FET turbo. This is being used for the GT buck driver configuration.
added more compile switches, little better custom configuration of the source in header files