Q8, PMS SEND TO THOSE WITH ISSUES BLF soda can light

[SawMaster]

@DB Custom

In the end, they’re going to do what they have available to them, what costs least for them, then we’ll do what we gotta do…

Exactly this. Once production delivery starts I expect there will be aftermarket boards becoming available both ways, or at least builds happening both ways. I don’t know the manufacturing process but my guess is that the single-board will be faster, cheaper, and easier for Thorfiure and thus what we will get. If they do it well, alignment won’t be an issue. If the alignment is not good enough the Q8 team can reject the prototype and request better or different. And though we’re getting great performance, at ~$40 there will be many ways for modders to improve on the Q8; there will just be a shorter distance to ‘perfction’ than with the current SRK clones/hosts.

We’re on the right track with this so let’s see what the #2 proto looks like when it arrives then take it where it needs to go from there.

Phil

[korpzgrinda]

May I please be added to the interest list? Thank you!

[The_Miller]

Yes welcome to BLF and will update list later!

[foton]

I have been lurking for a while and I am for 1

[alternety]

Just my two cents (well maybe a few more cents). I am one of those going to buy the light(s).

I have no interest in taking it apart and trying to insert all sorts of interesting variants of the standard parts. I do own a chainsaw and a 200W soldering iron, but I do not view those as flashlight accessories.

I don’t want to see a change to the plan to make it better for fooling with the innards at the expense of a safe, simple to use, high efficiency flashlight that generally will not burn your hand.

I would favor whatever solution yields the best heat transfer.

I truly would not be upset to see a bit less optimal beam shape if it makes the manufacturing (and price) feasible.

You might start a poll to see how many people are sure they are going to alter the innards, and those that just want a really nice light. That may help direct discussions of trade-offs.

And above all; the manufacturer must be able to build them at a cost to support their target retail price.

[Flintrock]

But why do want good heat transfer? So the LED doesn't get hot, so it stays efficient, so you get more light, so you can see better. Same reason good optics matter, to see stuff better. They're all pretty small trade-offs at the levels being discussed though. Nobody is trying to make the light worse.

As for modding though, rewording a little, but I think making a light that encourages the modding community here (including new folks) helps at least some to support the continuing development of the lights. Modding has a bunch to do with the environment here that makes all this happen.

[amplificus]

@Flintrock

As for modding though, I think even people who don’t mod can appreciate that the folks here perfecting these lights gained their experience and knowledge to be able to design this for you, by modding. Making lights friendly to modding helps encourage more people to do that to keep the process going.

Amen. The BLF A6 introduced me as well as many others into actually creating a custom light, way beyond swapping a P60 drop in. Since then, I’ve ordered the boards from oshpark, ordered components from digikey, made my own attiny programmer using an Arduino, flashing my own custom firmware (pioneered by toykeeper and many others) and learned how to solder tiny components on a hot plate (super easy btw with the right solder paste). Seeing what you can do with a light opened up a massive new hobby that I am extremely grateful for. I really think we are splitting hairs as to what would be the easiest to mod, these are already way more than a SRK clone that is available now, like for example the one I got is sitting in a drawer because I couldn’t find a good enough heatsink/mcpcb without me milling a piece of copper to press into the body.

[Nite_Shadow]

@cabfrank

@Nite Shadow

When this light is finally ready, will 4 Samsung 30Q’s adequately power this unit?

30Q’s are more than adequate. They are, along with only a couple other choices, optimal. Don’t forget they need to be button tops though.

Thanks for your reply, cabfrank! Guess I will just add a solder dot on top of each cell or is there another option with my existing 30Q’s? Not opposed to getting other cells if there are any good button top options that won’t be too big. Sorry if this was addressed earlier in this thread but it is pretty big! Will look back nonetheless. Thanks for your help!

[Snoballz]

Please add me to the list.

[Rufusbduck]

Mod friendly doesn’t preclude being well made to begin with, it just means it’s not put together in such a fashion that it gets destroyed taking it apart and has the potential for creative options. Modders will want to swap emitters and change drivers, use different optics or battery configurations but non of those things will affect those who just want to buy a light. A poll is not justified because it’s modders who are designing it and have the knowledge to make it right. Let them. Polling = committee = :person_facepalming: use it for things like 2-3 most popular tints or housing color.

[cabfrank]

Nite Shadow, I honestly think Sanyo 18650GA button tops are the all around best for this light. You can check out Tom’s measurements above and see if you agree. IMR sells them, with the button, and you can get a discount with the BLF code, which I think I BLF15, but you’ll have to check that. They will have slightly longer runtime, and only slightly less brightness, in a light that already has plenty. Normally I prefer max brightness high drain cells, but it won’t make much difference here. Besides, the four cells used in this light should always be used together, only in this light, in my opinion.

[The_Miller]

Yes of course the stock Q8 should need no modding to be awesome

[Flintrock]

@amplificus

I really think we are splitting hairs as to what would be the easiest to mod, these are already way more than a SRK clone that is available now, like for example the one I got is sitting in a drawer because I couldn’t find a good enough heatsink/mcpcb without me milling a piece of copper to press into the body.

Well compared to that sure, but wiring individual leds starting from parallel mono-board will require actual modifications to parts, not just soldering and/or replacing things, a dremmel can probably do it though if it's all one has.

[DB_Custom (Dale)]

The BLF15 code is not presently being offered at imrbatteries as they are restructuring with a new President or something like that. I think, as I understand it, they are gearing towards more bulk purchase type usage for wholesaling. robo819 is dealing with them on our behalf and has not gotten a reply lately while they go through this restructuring process.

Edit for clarification… there’s a new company President at imrbatteries pushing for changes.

[MtnDon (Don Miller)]

new president’s, ceo’s, etc usually do…. sometimes with success….

[stephenk]

@cabfrank

Nite Shadow, I honestly think Sanyo 18650GA button tops are the all around best for this light. You can check out Tom’s measurements above and see if you agree. IMR sells them, with the button, and you can get a discount with the BLF code, which I think I BLF15, but you’ll have to check that. They will have slightly longer runtime, and only slightly less brightness, in a light that already has plenty. Normally I prefer max brightness high drain cells, but it won’t make much difference here. Besides, the four cells used in this light should always be used together, only in this light, in my opinion.

Sanyo 18650GAs already have a raised top, so is having a button top added really necessary?

[cabfrank]

If I recall correctly, it was said that GA’s would likely work, but button tops would be better, a more positive fit, if you will.

[sochi111]

I would like to join the list

[kaybi]

Interested in one. Add me to the list.

[Jailbrake]

Please add me to the list for one.