Mine came with 2 mini manuals + 2 spare orings and 1 button.

12 sets of modes to choose from, 1 to 7 modes (plus moon), can change the order from lo to hi, to hi to lo as well. Should be an included manual?

Beginning to figure it out. Got in mode set. There is an included manual.

Thanks

Howdy. Hopefully somebody will explain to us who don’t understand this programming stuff. I have looked at the instructions, and the videos, and tried. very confusing. For now I have a great light that ramps, both directions. And with 2 clicks it goes to turbo, another 2 clicks and your in strobe mode. while in that great strobe mode, HOW do you access the other strobes??? Or maybe the other two strobe modes have been turned off?

And HOW do you get into mode sets so you can use the stepping? I know it says if u are in ramping, then hold button down for 8 seconds. This programming stuff is for the genius. I recall one time the genius Dale did an awesome video of the UI of a very complicated light, and it was much appreciated!

I see someone else is already asking the same thing.

I’ll wait patiently, while continuing to play/try.

thanks.

patrick

s. I got the green light turned off I think but can’t get it back on now :open_mouth:

In production, multiple PCB panels are drilled in a stack. I consider it highly highly unlikely that they would then be separated, and laboriously be individually re-aligned, and countersunk, one panel at a time.

I’d expect a slight bevel to form on a plain drilled hole the first time the screw was tightened. That would be a very poor thing to rely on to keep the screws tight, over repeated temperature cycling, particularly if it is a plain FR4 PCB. Thread locker would be an essential precaution.

Sorry to be a nit-picker.

It looks like they might have already tooled up to injection mould the rings, assuming that is a Q8 logo I see on the centre one ? I.e. they don’t look like hand-turned prototypes.

If not, I could understand a reluctance to pay for production tooling, and the additional process steps to fit them, if advised they were not needed.

There seems to be a manual in post #2 of this thread.

JasonWW has videos explaining NarsilM JasonWW2000 - YouTube

Thanks Teacher, must have missed that in all the excitement!

My pleasure……. :slight_smile:

No. Where are you getting this idea? It’s not going to be proud of the ring. Even if it was, it would not be a big deal. Your over reacting.

BTW, panhead screws were used in Prototype #3 and we’re not an issue. Why would they suddenly be an issue now?

Link to videos are in my sig.

Have you seen my videos? I tried to explain it very plainly.

There’s a total of 5 strobe/blinky modes.

If someone were very paranoid about the plastic Rings not being there, I’m sure they could fabricate some rings from nylon and glue them into place. My local hardware store has a large variety of nylon washers. At the very least you could take a piece of nylon and thin it out on the bottom then glue it right over the top of each screw so that there’s no way the screw will ever touch a battery.

You could even make a panhead screw thinner by grinding down the top of the head a little.

Hi Jason. Yes, I have watched your videos, thank you. This is really confusing stuff for some of us. You did not explain HOW to get into ‘mode sets’ from ramping. You just started out in mode sets. I have no clue how to even get into mode sets other than holding down the button for 8 seconds while in ramping . Then what I think the manual isn’t very clear. And when trying to access the different strobe modes the manual isn’t clear. When one first enter strobe, you must then IMMEDIATELY click for other strobe modes. Should be stressed IMMEDIATELY.

another question for those who have lights already. When you access the version of the firmware, what are u getting? I only get 1 blink, and not 1.3 Is mine version 1.0? Is there a version 1.3?

thank you Jason and others for any help for those of us confused by this programming.

patrick

In Q8, PMS SEND TO THOSE WITH ISSUES BLF soda can light - #12509 by Tom_Tom Etex measured the brass ring at 1/16” thick, i.e. 1.59 mm

See e.g. http://fastener-express.com/fastener-technical/Metmachpanhd.pdf for standard dimensions of metric phillips pan-head screws, dimension H1 applies (maximum).

E.g. 1.60 mm max for an M2 screw, or 2.1 mm for M2.5. Which size is used ? Both of these would be proud of the brass ring.

Once you get to M2.5, H1 minimum is 1.96mm, i.e. guaranteed to be proud.

At M2.0 H1 min is 1.46 mm (only 0.13mm clearance), but at the mean, 1.53 mm, there is only 0.06mm clearance.

This assumes good quality screws complying to spec.

Not acceptable at-all.

You’d have to go down to an M1.6 pan head screw to be sure of being under-flush. By only 0.3 mm. Which is a tiny screw.

It’s called tolerance analysis. Chances are most screws will be somewhere less than maximum, so with an M2 screw you might not see it, even if you looked for it, on a prototype.

And it would never be an issue using a button-top, inserted the correct way round.

But a designer should also consider possible real-life fault scenarios, and take steps to mitigate them, where reasonably practical. Designing reverse-polarity protection rings, prototyping them, but then removing them for production puzzles me.

Narsil v1.3 is the old version. The light should have NarsilM v1.0 installed - sounds like it does. Post #2 is obsolete - I didn't post it so can't update it - I've asked several times because it was inevitable this would happen.

For the rings, whoa da. They had "issues" gluing them down, concerned they would not stay in place - that's why they were dropped. They served no purpose - did not protect anything. It's one of those design issues that does not work out well for manufacture-ability. I thought they were there to make it look better. The plastic rings were below the height of the brass contact ring anyway - impossible for a totally flat end battery to make contact with them, just like the screws.

I see. And agree that they were non-functional/wrongly designed. A pity.

So, a reversed cell with a damaged wrapper could (would ?) short against the centre positive contact ?

I agree, the current semi-countersunk screws don’t seem to be a problem, and Dale’s suggestion to countersink the PCB a little further is what I will probably do, which will also improve resistance to coming loose, but I would be very cautious about substituting pan-heads, based on the simplest tolerancing study.

Or have I misunderstood ?

Well my Q8 hasn’t shipped yet, according to BangGood.

After reading all this discussion about screws and lack of rings, I am confused. Will the Q8 now take flat top batteries?

Somebody’s not paying attention

“We’re running outta screws here”

“Grab some more from that bucket over there, we got lots of screws around …”

Are you in Melbourne by any chance?