Q8 XHP50.2 3v MCPCB upgrade (with leds in place) Group buy?

TMaxxJJ · 2019-08-09T09:38:52.000Z

Marc E:

Kaidomain have the bare 6000K and 6500K LEDs, free shipping to the UK but takes a little while.

Thanks for this. But I much prefer neutral/warm tints (4000k is favourite), so even at 5400k it’s pushing it a bit.

TMaxxJJ · 2019-08-09T09:40:39.000Z

KawiBoy - Have you modified or upgraded your Q8 in any other way to get those numbers? Other than the XHP50’s and spring bypasses I presume?

KawiBoy1428 · 2019-08-09T10:18:03.000Z

TMaxxJJ:

KawiBoy - Have you modified or upgraded your Q8 in any other way to get those numbers? Other than the XHP50’s and spring bypasses I presume?

No not that I can remember Tinergy 18awg bypass’s on the springs, 18awg leads…

Remember you have to open the emitter holes in the reflector a bit…

I just chamfer the emitter holes to just fit around the emitter pad to keep it centered with out bang it around or use centering rings…

Here are some of my bit(s) I use… some use tapered reamers?

I might of changed the FET to an Infineon? I do that because of the cloned/fake/copied FET and 7135’s that are out there now… I only buy the important stuff from Arrow, Digikey or Mouser… I don’t remember having to do that on the Sofirn Q8…

TMaxxJJ · 2019-08-09T10:31:02.000Z

Thanks KawiBoy!

Dep668 · 2019-08-09T11:03:25.000Z

I’d be in for a pair for sure. Have been looking to upgrade my q8 somehow.

RapidLux · 2019-08-09T11:31:38.000Z

How much will sustainable lumens increase with 3V 50.2? If I’m not wrong the original Q8 stabilises around 1500 lm.

Dioda · 2019-08-09T11:37:39.000Z

I also wonder about the beam profile. With stock XPL HDs the Q8 has nice balanced beam with some usable throw. Wont XHP50’s change it into all out flooder?

Also did anyone consider swapping the stock LEDs with SST40 5000k? That would be a an interesting build.

djozz · 2019-08-09T11:39:53.000Z

RapidLux:

How much will sustainable lumens increase with 3V 50.2? If I’m not wrong the original Q8 stabilises around 1500 lm.

A bit more, maybe 2500, because the 50.2’s are driven in a more efficient current for this output.

djozz · 2019-08-09T11:42:41.000Z

Dioda:

I also wonder about the beam profile. With stock XPL HDs the Q8 has nice balanced beam with some usable throw. Wont XHP50’s change it into all out flooder?

Also did anyone consider swapping the stock LEDs with SST40 5000k? That would be a an interesting build.

I do have a Q8 with Luxeon V’s which has comparable output but a bit lower Vf, it does a bit under 8000 lumen. Maybe with SST40’s it will be close to that?

Unloco · 2019-08-09T13:46:24.000Z

Interested.

Dutcheee · 2019-08-09T16:19:41.000Z

I have the led4power board at home and awaiting a single 50.2 3V 6000K from kaidomain.

I’m planning to reflow it on my B-158 and see if the tint is acceptable. (I prefer warm white)
Thereafter dedome and see what it does to tint & throw. Not sure what the dedoming of a 50.2 will do to it. LEDs usually drop a bit in K due to the tint shift, which might be a bonus.
If satisfactory, I will order 5 extra’s for the Q8.

If a better tint and easier ordering process comes along, I’m definitely interested. The Q8 needs the 50.2s rather sooner than later!

DavidEF · 2019-08-09T17:59:02.000Z

djozz:

Dioda:

I also wonder about the beam profile. With stock XPL HDs the Q8 has nice balanced beam with some usable throw. Wont XHP50’s change it into all out flooder?

Also did anyone consider swapping the stock LEDs with SST40 5000k? That would be a an interesting build.

I do have a Q8 with Luxeon V’s which has comparable output but a bit lower Vf, it does a bit under 8000 lumen. Maybe with SST40’s it will be close to that?

I swapped in 4x SST-40 in a Sofirn Q8 and changed the springs to dual BlueSwordM springs, and it was noticeably brighter than the stock Q8, but I have no way of measuring.

Dioda · 2019-08-09T20:03:47.000Z

How was the beam profile with SST40s?

contactcr · 2019-08-09T20:13:11.000Z

I’m going to go out on a limb and say reflowing the emitters on the board is actually just as easy or easier than any other step in the mod.

Open the reflector holes (easy too but maybe delicate process and requires a bit you might not have)

Find/make a new metal plate and screw to hold MCPCB in place (this could be easy or hard depending on what you find)

Get new centering rings (easy)

Reflow MCPCB with stove top (easy)

Solder wires to MCPCB (easy with flux and clean iron but harder than above probably, lol)

Yokiamy · 2019-08-09T20:25:03.000Z

Dutcheee:

I have the led4power board at home and awaiting a single 50.2 3V 6000K from kaidomain.

I’m planning to reflow it on my B-158 and see if the tint is acceptable. (I prefer warm white)
Thereafter dedome and see what it does to tint & throw. Not sure what the dedoming of a 50.2 will do to it. LEDs usually drop a bit in K due to the tint shift, which might be a bonus.
If satisfactory, I will order 5 extra’s for the Q8.

If a better tint and easier ordering process comes along, I’m definitely interested. The Q8 needs the 50.2s rather sooner than later!

I have bought the same emitter from KD, the tint is a typical cree one, with a yellow greenish corona.
After i accidently broke off the dome (which was actually a rather good but lucky dedome) the tint clearly improved.
Somewhat warmer, less blueish, and i got rid of the ugly color of the corona

DavidEF · 2019-08-09T20:41:12.000Z

Dioda:

How was the beam profile with SST40s?

It’s not as tight as the XP-L HI that come in the Sofirn Q8. It’s just a bit tighter compared to my XP-L HD in my BLF Q8. Between the two, it’s closer to the HD than the HI for sure. Overall, it looks good, though. As far as tint, it was a cool white 7500K, a bit blue but not bad, and no green that I could tell. In fact, when I compared it to the BLF Q8, it made those stock 5000K XP-L HD look warm and a bit green/yellow by comparison.

KawiBoy1428 · 2019-08-09T22:10:18.000Z

contactcr:

I’m going to go out on a limb and say reflowing the emitters on the board is actually just as easy or easier than any other step in the mod.

Open the reflector holes (easy too but maybe delicate process and requires a bit you might not have)

Find/make a new metal plate and screw to hold MCPCB in place (this could be easy or hard depending on what you find)

Get new centering rings (easy)

Reflow MCPCB with stove top (easy)

Solder wires to MCPCB (easy with flux and clean iron but harder than above probably, lol)

I believe the stock o-ring is 2x54mm. I think I used a 3x54mm on mine, I went thru my o-ring collection and noticed (1) 2x54mm laying in the box, and 3.1x54mm and 3.2x54mm still in their packages but the 3x54mm zip lock bag is empty. There is but a tiny gap in mine between bezel and head YMMV?

. The O-ring store is one of my favorites……! :+1:

. https://theoringstore.com/

. Metric Buna-N O-Rings - We make getting o-rings easy!

. 3mm X 54mm (NBR) Buna-N 70 Duro Metric O-Ring [N3.00X054] : The O-Ring Store LLC, We make getting O-Rings easy!

contactcr · 2019-08-09T22:08:49.000Z

Are you saying you used a thicker O ring to press the reflector down harder and not use a screw from below?

It sounds like that but you have machining tools coming out your ears so I’m doubting myself, lol.

KawiBoy1428 · 2019-08-09T22:27:19.000Z

contactcr:

Are you saying you used a thicker O ring to press the reflector down harder and not use a screw from below?

It sounds like that but you have machining tools coming out your ears so I’m doubting myself, lol.

Yep used a thicker o-ring. Thought about spotting/transferring the holes thru the mcpcb (if it missed the traces) and tapping them 2.5mm/ 3mm what ever they were, or adding tapped holes in a different location on the mcpcb and then transfer them into the shelf, but the excitement got the better of me, I already had it together, starting playing with it when it dawned on me… :person_facepalming: maybe on the next one….

Dutcheee · 2019-08-10T07:55:44.000Z

Yokiamy:

Dutcheee:

I have the led4power board at home and awaiting a single 50.2 3V 6000K from kaidomain.

I’m planning to reflow it on my B-158 and see if the tint is acceptable. (I prefer warm white)
Thereafter dedome and see what it does to tint & throw. Not sure what the dedoming of a 50.2 will do to it. LEDs usually drop a bit in K due to the tint shift, which might be a bonus.
If satisfactory, I will order 5 extra’s for the Q8.

If a better tint and easier ordering process comes along, I’m definitely interested. The Q8 needs the 50.2s rather sooner than later!

I have bought the same emitter from KD, the tint is a typical cree one, with a yellow greenish corona.
After i accidently broke off the dome (which was actually a rather good but lucky dedome) the tint clearly improved.
Somewhat warmer, less blueish, and i got rid of the ugly color of the corona

Thanks for the info! I’ll definately try the dedome then.
Do you have any idea about the influence on lumen / throw?