I was just wondering what you guys can suggest for hosts for those QTC pills. I was looking at the itp eos a1 with the twisty but i its multi modes so im not sure how that would affect it. ideally 1 mode is what we need for this from reading previous posts. any suggestions other than the tank 007. Thanks!
I don't think it will be much usefull in cases that a twisty connects only by its non anodized front face. It touches the driver and it is there. No space for any further movement. But I'll try it in my ITP A3 first and get a single mode A3 if it works. I have the E07 already so it's a safe buy for me.
I am going to try it on this:
1 mode twisty. Gives a crappy light, and I did use it with 16340, but it heats up very fast. Maibe a double mod. QTC and a XPG... The first should be a simple procedure. The second....still have a lot to learn, and purchase the proper tools.
Can somebody show me a photo of a QTC of those "rare" things?
Thanks
I wonder if this can be used on my sons powerwheels to make the speed proportionally variable to pedal pressure. hmmm, i guess i gotta see how many amps it the motor draws. i guess the 10amp limit is for a 4mm square but if i had a bigger one it would support more current.
Sure, it just isn't very exciting being a piece of black rubber-like material 4 x 4mm and 2mm thick. That is three of the pills sitting on top of the F23
so would you say all 3 used together would allow 30amps or just 10 amps.
3 in parallel ought to be fine for 30A - but the base resistance will be 1/3 of the original value. Since the stuff uncompressed seems to have a much higher resistance than my body, I'd not worry about that. Stacking them vertically will not increase current handling but laying out 3 of them horizontally will allow for 10 amps each. Their resistance will still be enough to be an effective "off switch". There should be little or no current drain till the pedal is pressed.
The only problem with this is that the motor torque will be massively reduced until the stuff is fully squished.
For motor control PWM controllers are normally used so as to maintain torque. It'll work fine without a load, but it may not be satisfactory under load.
I'd like to hear how it works out though.
I was thinking I'd get a E07, but I might try my Uniquefire S10 first. It fits a 14500 pretty tightly (doesn't even fit a flame Trustfire), so there may be some way of cramming a 14500 and a QTC pill in there and then twist the head for variable brightness. Because I burned out its driver on a 14500, it is rigged up direct drive and therefore only 1 mode right now.
Sounds like a good idea - it has enough threads on the head to do that. Now where's a 14500? Tried with an unprotected one and the spring at the tailcap isn't providing enough force - time to try with a longer protected 14500. Works, but i need to compress the spring more - time to stick a magnet to the end of the 14500 - I'm not getting enough force to squish the pill enough. I also REALLY need to lube the head threads.
A 2mm magnet is too much with a protected flame Trustfire 14500. A 1mm magnet works just fine.
Movie uploading to YouTube now. It's a bit jerky because I still haven't lubed the threads.
My two cents...
All lights can be modded with a QTC. Granted, some are much harder than others so it comes down to how much work is it really worth. Having said that, here's what I'd look for in a good host:
-Twisty (again, not necessary but makes it a lot easier)
- Single mode driver
Springs on either end will muck up the works. Easiest option is to remove them and create a qtc sandwich of correct height to replace it with. Only thing you'll have to remember is to stick with batteries of the same height. I have an AA-S1 around here somewhere where I swapped one in. The kids have been playing with it for a week now, gotta go try and find it.
i got an L2 1mode xml. i guess maybe i can sandwich it between two plates. and unscrew tailcap
You'd probably be best using more than one pill for that or the sandwich tends to contact at the edges and bypass the pill. Or you need better engineering skills than I have - which isn't all that hard....
could probably use those led isolators to prevent contact at edge. ill try it when i receive them.
hmm now how would go about putting some of this in a D maglite ???
Perhaps we should start a sticky'd thread with a list of good hosts and the basics about using a QTC pill (or multiple pills) in them effectively.
OMG!
Thanks for the photos!
This thing opens a complete world in flashlights....
I'm thinking of a foam donut + small magnets from DX to cover both ends. Maybe this way I can make some replaceable QTC drop-ins for different lights. I don't know how the material would react to strong magnetic field but sounds worth a try to me.

I'm thinking of a foam donut + small magnets from DX to cover both ends. Maybe this way I can make some replaceable QTC drop-ins for different lights. I don't know how the material would react to strong magnetic field but sounds worth a try to me.
That's a good idea - one magnet didn't seem to have any effect on it when testing in the Uniquefire S10.
The itp's don't like magnets-they need the contact of the battery to be exactly flush with the top of the battery tube, and crush the others, and plus, they have a little "nub" of metal in the metal, in my sample. It could be bad machining, but I don't think so.