Received Tangsfire HD2010 from Old-Lumens Group Buy

Received my Tangsfire HD2010 today from Old Lumens Group Buy.

Put a Protected 18650 in and checked it out. Ok for a minute then got hot and shut down. After checking, centering ring was starting to melt/deform so I did a complete tear down. Turns out the led also got hot and twisted on the star.

No problem, I desoldered driver and reflowed led back on. Can't believe I did it. My first attempt and it was a success (thanks to OL video) and it worked as should.

Cleaned it all up and re-thermal pasted the star in the pill and all is well. Can't for the life of me figure what caused it to get hot though. Seems to be working fine for now.

ETA. Anybody receiving HD2010 with 0-ring installed on pill you had better rermove it or risk shorting out the led.

See post #10 below.

Could easily be a short. The melted plastic and extreme heat suggests a Bat+ short to body somewhere. Looks like that driver should have good output!

I'm getting 3.5 amp from tailcap reading. Thought I'd get at least @ 4.

Using protected 3400ma 18650.

Identical to what I’m getting on my stock Tangsfire C8 with the same cell. Need an unprotected cell to get 4A+.

Yeppers, got a Kong unprotected enroute.

We would be happy with this powerful light, but isn’t there should be some safety concerns for non-flashaholics? :open_mouth:

I wouldn’t really think so, but then again I managed to do the same thing with my HD2010 when I got it. I ran it for a while and then took off the bezel/lens/reflector to check the innards and accidentally spun the emitter on the mcpcb (Whoops!). I didn’t realize it spun… Lots of heat in the wrong places after trying to turn it on and no light emerged.

I also received the Tangsfire from OLs group buy. Mine is not so great. It has all 5 modes, but even on high, it’s not in direct drive. It only draws about 1 amp on high. Even on my bench top power supply, it only draws about 1 amp.
The way the reflector is built, they had to use a tall plastic emitter ring to keep the reflector from shorting the LED wires. That plastic ring completely screws up the alignment and makes for one ugly beam. I’ll have to replace the driver, shave down the alignment ring, and do a little carving on the bottom of the reflector to make this light wort keeping.

Have you torn it apart and checked the problem areas OL identified?

Checked the driver itself?

I’ve heard of them being subpar ~2.8A, but 1A sounds like something is way off.

I got my tangsfire from the group buy and get 4.8 amps with a King Kong 26650. That is after I tightened the pill. As it came I had umpteen flashy modes. :wink: Now it is fine, but will soon get a dedomed XML2.

Texas Toasted, and anybody else listening, another thing to consider is some of these HD2010's came with an o-ring installed on the pill

TAKE THAT O-RING OFF IF IT CAME THAT WAY.

That's what caused mine to SHORT !

I PM'd with Old-Lumens today and he confirmed he had received only one HD2010 that had the o-ring installed on the pill. He also had to remove it to get proper function My Tangsfire had one too.

The o-ring on the pill prevents the reflector from seating flush in the head. When you thread down on the bezel, POOF !

I did remove the pill, clean out the aluminum drill shavings, and re-tighten everything. Just running the Pill by itself, outside the light, directly off my bench power supply at 4.2V, it only draws one amp.
The light I received is really not very good. The reflector is fogged and dirty, the threads are rough, the pill has to be unscrewed about a turn to raise the emitter up against the bottom of the reflector, but the LED still cannot get deep enough inside the reflector for proper alignment due to the width of the reflector base, and the driver has obvious issues.
I just wanted to see why this light was getting so much attention on BLF when there are so many better made lights for just a few dollars more.

That is a huge bummer toasted. Sounds like you got one with several parts lacking QC.

A good one focuses to a crisp center hotspot circle that looks absolutely stunning. Although it does seem to take a good deal of tweaking to achieve this. ( I had to carve a centering ring since I accidentally melted the stock ring. :stuck_out_tongue: )

  1. Since you only have 1A on high, what are the current draw on lower modes?
  2. Does the beam look weak with eyes on high mode?
  3. Maybe something has burnt out during the first click-on?

Just received my Tangsfire from the group buy.

Had I not checked here, I may have merely inserted batteries and been __ssed off that it either went poof or performed terribly.

Time for a tear-down!

sorry Texas… look like your light came toasted :zipper_mouth_face:
but mine came just fine, just hoping the no name brand is as good…
well unfortunately can’t be said the same with my FandyFire HD2010… it’s very dim :_(
it was working fine for awhile and suddenly just went dim for no reason, and the light didn’t even been used for more than 2 minutes at a time :weary:

Got a KK ICR 26650 in today from Mountain E.

Tangsfire HD2010 ,without any mods, is pulling 4.2 amps on high.

Not too shabby for stock. Plan on doing solder-wick-mod on springs and then maybe a 4C emitter on a Noctigon.

“Poof” went my Tangsfire.

You may have tripped the protection on a battery that cannot deliver 3+ amps.
I have a few batteries that did this.

Hope that is all it is.

Keith

I just tried my pill outside the light with a Sanyo lap pull and it made a quick 4.52A and going up when I pulled it off. Want it?

I already had Ryan’s copper pill built up and waiting for the light, didn’t even try the stock one til just now.

But I’m gonna tell ya, at that power the XM-L on Al isn’t gonna make it. You’ll need to put a copper star under it at the very least.

Mine’s doing 5.32A on an Efest 35A 18650. :slight_smile: