Recommendation for a floody, small work light

Flashlight Modding and DIY Parts
1

Hi guys,
I am looking for advice on building a small (ish) work light for working on my car. I would like it to be floody and fairly small, though, if possible using a 21700, but a decent host using a 18650 would also be ok. A magnetic tail cap would be great. I looked at the convoy s21, but havent found a magnetic end cap for it.

Also what emitter would you recommend me? I think 1000 lm should be enough, so it doesnt have to be cracy high output. Also as its for working, I dont really care about high CRI. High efficency is more important to me. As for color temperature I was thinking somewhere around 5000 -5500K, but I am open to suggestions, if you think that this is a bad choice.

Thanks for your help

2

Why not an actual work-light?

I got 2 of these, even reviewed it here on BLF somewhere…

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077N2M5BT/

Oh, lookit that… mine’s the first/top review on the bugger. :joy:

3

Nice idea, but I prefer working with a flashlight form factor. I have been working with my Convoy M21A, but Its just a little to throwy for this kind of work IMO.

4

That’s why God invented diffusion film…

Bug Boaz for some stick-on sheets (like 3bux last I recall), slap it on the front of the glass.

Want to undo it? Peel it off.

I got a bunch of lights with those hateful little G3s. Diffusion film mixes the colors decently and spreads the light around nice and floody, yet with no harsh shadows like from an aspheric.

5

I appreciate the advice, but I would like to just build a small floody flashlight.

6

M21A + diffusion film… eh, I can consider that “building”.

7

but then I would always have to add//remove the film.

Also I would like a host with a smaller diameter “head”.

8

Rovyvon e200s or Sofirn IF23

9

Is it bright enough for working under a car. How many million lumens?

10

Consider the Convoy S21E with a frosted TIR. B35AM has excellent regulaton as well, the boost driver is very efficient and will stay at the same brightness until the battery runs out. I don’t think it comes with a magnet by default but you can just glue one on.

11

“Bright enough”.

No optix, so it functions as a mule. Lots and lots of coverage, but not as intense as directed light, obviously. Think I guessed it was about 300lm on its brightest.

It’s got magnetic-suck action, so you stick it near where you’re working anyway, and aim the goosenecked head where you want the light to go. Me, I never had any issues with its brightness.

I’d much rather that than trying to aim an actual flashlight, moreso with a reflector’s hotspot+spill. Even with a magnetic base, I’m not sure how I’d use it effectively.

12

I have now decided for a s21 case with a 3V xhp50.3. The emitter might be overkill but I have never used it before and I am curious on how it performs. The driver is only rated for 4A, so it should be a little over 1300lm if I read the datasheet correctly. More than enough for my use case

13

Why 3V? The 6V boost driver has better efficiency than the linear driver, and stable output as the battery drains.

14

There is a really simple reason for this:

I didnt know that a boost driver would be more efficient. Thanks for telling me, I will try to change my order. If its not possible, I will at least know it for the next light.

15

Since when did Simon start using 3V 50.3?

16

I dont know if He does. I bought the parts.

17

Pretty sure he doesn’t, but they’re available for sale.

Pretty nice upgrade for older XHP50.2 3v lights like the FW1A Pro and Q8 Plus, as well as being a very bright emitter for modding 5050 lights (built a D4Sv2 with it).