Red XP-E vs XP-E2

Flashlight Modding and DIY Parts
1

What’s the best way to visually identify a red XP-E vs XP-E2?

I’ve pulled some from Brinyte B158’s that I bought to use as hosts (it was cheaper to buy them with a red or green LED). In looking at a couple that I pulled, they appeared different*. Just curious what I’ve got sitting in inventory. It’s been a bit since I looked at the performance differences, but I thought I remembered the XP-E2 being better enough to make a visual difference.

While I likely won’t be reusing these LEDs for much, I did hook up a friend with a B158 using the original red pill… and he’s looking for more power. It’ll get a XP-E2 (still red) on noctigon swapped in (original is on aluminum). If I remember correctly, it’s only running 3x or 4x 7135’s. I’ll probably swap in a 6x7135 driver for 2.1 amps… 8x7135 for 2.8 amps is probably out of the question, right?

  • I’d include pics, but I’m not in front of them at the moment. If needed, I’ll grab some later.
2

Djozz tested those LEDs

He measured max. lumens on DTP on a CPU cooler at 2.1A

So I would guess driving with 4-5x7135 would be OK in a flashlight

3

In b158 :
‘’We have two kinds red&green led: XP-E2, XP-G.’’

4

Easy to tell the difference, just like those that emit white light, the XP-E has a green substrate, the E2 has a white/silver substrate.

5

Vidramon: that’s interesting that they’d list that… I don’t think XP-G came in colored variations

PD68: thanks! Now that you mention it, I’m pretty sure that was the difference I was noticing. I just didn’t know what the variation meant. And… I can’t really tell that the substrate was green, I just knew it looked different (I’m colorblind).

6

Spot on, PD. Both of the LEDs here came from B158’s from GearBest this year. Either its a crapshoot, or Brinyte upgraded emitters at some point. Also FWIW, the emitter on the right (the XP-E2) is on a copper board. And I can confirm the driver is a measly 3x7135.

As much I want to trust that copper board, it’s certainly no noctigon. Sounds like a mcpcb swap may be in order, as well as a 6x7135 upgrade. That ought to brighten things up a bit.

Thanks for the help guys!

7

These colour XP-E’s can not handle more than 2A, and personally think that 4x7135 is the sweetspot. So 3x7135 is not crazy low for these leds.

8

Is that 4x 350mA or 380mA 7135’s djozz?

9

Don’t know what the hell is going on, I only know that they don’t know what they are doing, they mess up b158 HI V3 complete, and also I notice some differences between their red and green modules.

When I ask what is happening, and why they are different and red is much stronger than green etc they respond :

‘’We have two kinds red&green led: XP-E2, XP-G.
And they use different driver, red usually use 160, but green use AK47’’

10

That copper MCPCB may be thin (1mm) but it does have a Direct Thermal Path. :+1:

11

What difference do you mean vidramon?
The pictures show different LEDs of course, but the rest looks the same.

12

Background also, later they answered me as I told you, that they use different driver and led.

Also I think that this red one ( at least in my case ) is not set correctly so I don’t have perfect square it is like a blurry on the corners… also the green is not perfect but it is a little better than red.

Green is much more less power, as far as I understand a green colour need to have better visibility in night conditions, don’t know what exactly this led’s are and how much lumens but I dislike a power of green :expressionless: