Red XP-E vs XP-E2

What’s the best way to visually identify a red XP-E vs XP-E2?

I’ve pulled some from Brinyte B158’s that I bought to use as hosts (it was cheaper to buy them with a red or green LED). In looking at a couple that I pulled, they appeared different*. Just curious what I’ve got sitting in inventory. It’s been a bit since I looked at the performance differences, but I thought I remembered the XP-E2 being better enough to make a visual difference.

While I likely won’t be reusing these LEDs for much, I did hook up a friend with a B158 using the original red pill… and he’s looking for more power. It’ll get a XP-E2 (still red) on noctigon swapped in (original is on aluminum). If I remember correctly, it’s only running 3x or 4x 7135’s. I’ll probably swap in a 6x7135 driver for 2.1 amps… 8x7135 for 2.8 amps is probably out of the question, right?

  • I’d include pics, but I’m not in front of them at the moment. If needed, I’ll grab some later.

Djozz tested those LEDs

He measured max. lumens on DTP on a CPU cooler at 2.1A

So I would guess driving with 4-5x7135 would be OK in a flashlight

In b158 :
‘’We have two kinds red&green led: XP-E2, XP-G.’’

Easy to tell the difference, just like those that emit white light, the XP-E has a green substrate, the E2 has a white/silver substrate.

Vidramon: that’s interesting that they’d list that… I don’t think XP-G came in colored variations

PD68: thanks! Now that you mention it, I’m pretty sure that was the difference I was noticing. I just didn’t know what the variation meant. And… I can’t really tell that the substrate was green, I just knew it looked different (I’m colorblind).

Spot on, PD. Both of the LEDs here came from B158’s from GearBest this year. Either its a crapshoot, or Brinyte upgraded emitters at some point. Also FWIW, the emitter on the right (the XP-E2) is on a copper board. And I can confirm the driver is a measly 3x7135.

As much I want to trust that copper board, it’s certainly no noctigon. Sounds like a mcpcb swap may be in order, as well as a 6x7135 upgrade. That ought to brighten things up a bit.

Thanks for the help guys!

These colour XP-E’s can not handle more than 2A, and personally think that 4x7135 is the sweetspot. So 3x7135 is not crazy low for these leds.

Is that 4x 350mA or 380mA 7135’s djozz?

Don’t know what the hell is going on, I only know that they don’t know what they are doing, they mess up b158 HI V3 complete, and also I notice some differences between their red and green modules.

When I ask what is happening, and why they are different and red is much stronger than green etc they respond :

‘’We have two kinds red&green led: XP-E2, XP-G.
And they use different driver, red usually use 160, but green use AK47’’

That copper MCPCB may be thin (1mm) but it does have a Direct Thermal Path. :THUMBS-UP:

What difference do you mean vidramon?
The pictures show different LEDs of course, but the rest looks the same.

Background also, later they answered me as I told you, that they use different driver and led.

Also I think that this red one ( at least in my case ) is not set correctly so I don’t have perfect square it is like a blurry on the corners… also the green is not perfect but it is a little better than red.

Green is much more less power, as far as I understand a green colour need to have better visibility in night conditions, don’t know what exactly this led’s are and how much lumens but I dislike a power of green :expressionless: