Refreshing my memory on convoy, any help appreciated

Yes, Simon exists and he is loved by the BLF community. He still runs that nice store, customer friendly and fair prices.
Speaking of Convoy S2+, you might want to consider if the beam should be narrow (then Osram White Flat) or you want it thicker (then SST-40 would do the job).
For hunting purposes i think it’s better to use 12 gruop 5A driver which allows to set just one 100% mode. Also type of switch can be discussed. Whether you prefer forward one (lights up the torch when pressed a little) or reverse (lights up after full switch click)
When you know what’s best for you, just write Simon at the AliExpress store and you’ll get it asap.
Simon’s store

(Android link, hope it’ll work)

Thanks 1stein, really appreciate the input.

I will message him again then about a S2+ with the greatest range, a 100% only function and forward clicky momentary on( hoping I have that right) and also a remote tail switch. Good heavens I may just get it nailed this time :slight_smile:

Guys just another question, can anyone explain the place of the 21700 size battery. is this replacing the 18650 for popularity? Does an investment in 18650 based lights still have longevity?

The 18650 will be around for a good while. Depending on your requirements for throw, a C8 size light might be better for hunting.

ill probably get a c8 as well, this first light needs to be lower profile.

Actually looking at the following

  1. s2+ short/mid range
    2.c8 or something else long range
  2. Higher level Handheld thrower

not sure what no.2 or no.3 will be yet. so much to learn and simons site has few lumens or CD figures posted

This thread may be helpful

This link should also help.

thanks, I just remembered why I pulled the pin on the project last year, and I even found the thread where I did so. :smiley:

its technical :slight_smile: I can understand battery types, lumens, CD’s, but need to put more thought into emitters, tints, ‘firmware’ and amps etc.

The Osram W1 seems to be the best thrower in a cylindrical shaped convoy S2+ light. I tested around 32,000cd/360ish meters throw from my example with OP reflector.

It seems the newer SFT40 has similar throw while also doubling the overall lumen output, so that may be an option for you as well, if you can catch it when it’s in stock.

Thanks that is very helpful!

Simon just directed me to buy the S2+ SST40 gray model with remote tail switch.

Can I ask regards tint color what works best for absolute best throw per lumens? Cool or warm? I chose 5000k over 6500k or should I have chosen 6500? Im not concerned with aesthetics, just illuminating targets the most efficiently.

I was thinking of getting the S2+ Xp-L hi 2800mah 5000K as well. Seems very economical.

6500K should give better numbers, not necessarily confirmed by the naked eye. It’s also said the cold light (6500K) better reveals details, while warm is better for colors.

If you’re using a Picadilly mount, check the maximum tube-size it’d take. A 21700 light might not fit. It might, but be aware that it might not.

Picatinny mount I assume you mean. Im only getting an 18650 light so should be okay. This one will get taped directly to the magazine tube of a lever action as well, no fixed mounts.

Mmm, I heard it both ways…

I think 1” is the “standard” hole size, which usually fits 18650 lights perfectly, but a lot of 21700 lights are just a bit too portly, that the clamp might not “reach” all the way, or it may stretch the clampy part and deform it (especially if plastic), etc.

Oh yeh, I think the TF84 came with a mount… or was it the UC20? Bah, forgot.

Anyhoo, tape is… flexible. :laughing:

If it’s going on a rifle I’d highly suggest the C8 over the s2. I have both, the s2 is my daily carry and the C8 is on my AR

hi neo71665, c8 is a bit large for my intended purpose, taping to mag tube of a little lever action. How do you find the throw on the s2+? Which one do you have? I only want illumination of targets to about 100 yards

100 yards? Then even an SST20 could do it easily on a smooth reflector. My S2+ SST20 comfortably surpassed that mark before I dropped a TIR in it, despite the driver being 1.4A and the emitter being 2700K.

I do agree the C8 would be overkill. A good compromise between C8 and S2+ might the the M2, although the bezel is not waterproof at all. The M1 is properly waterproof, but it’s a bit bulkier than the M2.

Okay thanks thats good to know. I need full water protection as I live in equatorial tropics. Even what doesnt get wet attracts moisture and mold.

fellas so I got the grey S2 sst40 simon recommended with remote tailcap. Arrived in good order, gee these little things look and feel tough! I will take it for a test run on the 357 carbine tonight. Did have a couple of questions regards the light if anyone can help.

1. Will this have that parasitic drain going on when it sits unused? It will be a bit inconvenient if I need to pull this out at night and the light doesnt work. If so can I maybe slightly unscrew the tailcap when not in use?

2. Looks like it came with an unprotected battery. Is it okay if I use my protected olight brand button top 18650 batteries in it? I put one in it and it seemed to work just fine, but I thought I would ask in case maybe its technically too long and potentially damaging to the light when screwed shut?

3. Do I have to be cautious if I do run unprotected batteries in it all the way down? Or does the light prevent damage occurring?

4. Lastly, I see there is a programming setting for always comes on at high only. Is there a way for it only to come on at high strobe only?

If not I will just set it to only come on at high everytime.


1. If no lighted switch there should be no parasitic drain, but Li-Ions can discharge just by themselves. However for 18650s it should take more than a year
2. The driver has it’s own protections including heat, polarization and over-discharge. Using two protecting PCB (driver + the cell) may not work properly. I’d recommend to stay with unprotected ones because: a) you already have it incorporated in the driver, b) protected cells are longer and may crush the springs (or even the driver)
3. The light will blink to inform you that the cell’s voltage is at its minimum. With the FET driver (I believe you have the one) you’ll aslo notice brightness loss.
4. There is no just bliking mode. Those available to choose from are:

1. 0.1, 1, 10, 35, 100%, strobo, biking, battery-check
2. 0.1, 1, 10, 35, 100%
3. 100, 35, 10, 1, 0.1%
4. 1, 20, 100%, strobo, biking, battery-check, SOS
5. 1, 20, 100%
6. 100, 20, 1%
7. 0.1, 1, 10, 50, strobo, biking, battery-check, SOS
8. 0.1, 1, 10, 50
9. 50, 10, 1, 0.1
10. 1, 10, 35, 100
11. 100, 20, strobo
12. 100%