Hey folks- some time back I bought 3 thorfire vg-10 lights, the ones without the wide ring. They have served me well, though sporadically.
I ran into a problem a couple weeks back where one of the lights would always act like the battery is low… the problem followed the head, not tail (but I cleaned threads, opened up the tails, etc.). Still having problems; so I have pulled the driver retainer ring, etc. to see if theres any obvious problem- short, blown caps, whatever. Nothing obvious… it measures 17 mm in diameter and has a wire-wrapped wrapped ferrite ring on top of the ICs. I’ve seen similar units on aliexpress, etc., but none seem to be the OEM of the VG-10 driver.
I inquired of Thorfire, and they said in effect, we sold these too long ago, no warranty applies, see you. I specifically asked for possible 3rd party replacement drivers. Silence on that.
So let me ask the awesome folks here-
Suggestions for a replacement driver? There are so many… I can use protected and not 18650s, the XM-L2 emitter should be safe at higher amps than these units gave (~750-800), so an upgrade seems really feasible. One thing that I’m less clear about is about heat sink efficiency, and how hard higher power use will push the temp. So, maybe I’d stay under 2 amps. But I really_really _like the moonight feature of the thorfire drivers, and like the output spacing.
Are there reasonably priced drivers that will do as I need?
I’ll accept any guidance you can give me!
Sofrin SF36 and kin. Samesame dimensions.
I always liked the original VG10s and not the VG10Ses. (And with plural perplexities why I also hate ‘S’ suffices for lights.)
just curious- what disappointed you with the 10S?
Not certain if this helps. The driver in my ThorFire VG10 is the spitting image of the driver in my ThorfFire C8s. The first model that is. And of the driver in my Eagle Eye BLF SE X6.
The 17 mm FET drivers from Mountain Electronics work fine in the VG10 and 10S THESE or THESE as I have used them in several of the VG10 lights , just have to add a little solder around the ground ring to get the thickness right under the retaining ring…
If you are wanting the exact driver that is in the VG10 from the factory PM me with your mailing address and I can send you 1 or maybe even 2 of them as I have some of the original drivers that I replaced with the FET’s.
Went from a forward-clicky switch to a reverse-clicky… right there that bugged me.
Been quite a while since I compared, but offhand the output was a little brighter, but the beam was a lot nastier, quite ringy. Modes weren’t as well-spaced anymore. Just a bunch of things that were discrete steps backward from the plain ol’ VG10, which would’ve been close to a perfect light if left alone.
@robo819- Thanks for the info and offer! PM sent. I’m also going to score one or 2 modern drivers from MTN.
@lightbringer- I recently (before I saw your comment) got one of those VG10S units during a recent amazon sale for $16. I see what you mean.
As a non-electricical engineer, its not immediately clear if the difference is in the switch mechanics or the driver. If the driver… well- I’ll have a new driver or three to throw in. If the tail switch- I would think this is replaceable with another switch from somewhere like MTN. Thanks much to you both!!
FC vs RC it’s physically the switch itself. You’d need to swap one for the other.
The UI is a different matter that just takes getting used to.
I got a WK50 that’s got a FC switch, yet has the same basic UI as is on most RC-outfitted lights. So from off, you half-press ’til you get the mode you want, then click it the rest of the way. Lets you flash’n’dash all day’n’night if that’s what you want. If you want to change modes, turn it off then do the half-press thing as above.
Same as the old but wonderful VG10…