Restoring anodization on tail cap threads

Nooner · 2018-05-25T02:33:29.000Z

I don’t have the answer. Hoping someone can chime in.

I have a light where the anodization has worn on the mating threads to the tailcap. I can’t do a tailcap lockout anymore.

Has anyone had success with some kind of re-coating. Not necessarily anodization. Just something that can reliably break the circuit.

Thanks

Henk4U2 · 2018-05-25T06:47:58.000Z

Same problem here. Had this issue from day 1 with my Thorfire C8s. The new model with “dull” black ano.

bansuri · 2018-05-25T06:58:40.000Z

You could put a PCB in the tail cap that is isolated from the cap.
Contact would go through board to negative spring.
Most zebralights are like this, lots of other brands too.
It’s nothing more than a spring soldered to a copper coated pc board.
It will depend on the design of your light but may fix your issue.

FPV · 2018-05-25T07:23:29.000Z

Pretty much all Convoys I own have this problem, not only will this disable the lockout, the light also jumps through modes or flickrs wildly when removing/screwing on the tail cap.

Enderman · 2018-05-25T07:26:58.000Z

No, you need to either reanodize it or apply some sort of powdercoat or ceramic coat, which is almost just as difficult and will add thickness possibly making the threads not fit together anymore.

skinny_tie · 2018-05-25T09:03:46.000Z

PTFE tape?

Nooner · 2018-05-25T09:24:01.000Z

Henk4U2:

Same problem here. Had this issue from day 1 with my Thorfire C8s. The new model with “dull” black ano.

That is the light I’m having the issue with. Anodizing has been worn off since pretty much day 2.

Nooner · 2018-05-25T09:27:55.000Z

bansuri:

You could put a PCB in the tail cap that is isolated from the cap.
Contact would go through board to negative spring.
Most zebralights are like this, lots of other brands too.
It’s nothing more than a spring soldered to a copper coated pc board.
It will depend on the design of your light but may fix your issue.

Thanks for that suggestion. I don’t want to start swapping parts just yet. Had my fingers crossed there was an easy fix.

Nooner · 2018-05-25T09:33:06.000Z

I think you are right Enderman.

Skinny_tie, PTFE tape might work once. But I’d imagine it would get shredded up pretty fast.

chadvone · 2018-05-25T13:39:25.000Z

Buy new light?

Lube lube lube, and feed from top when possible.

CNCman · 2018-05-27T22:14:50.000Z

Teflon tape for pipe threads is a good idea, worth trying, even if it does not last long. Use some lube on top of the tape may help it to stay in place. Sometimes you have to play the cards your dealt.

TBone · 2018-05-28T04:57:03.000Z

If you do not need the black color you could just re-anodize the thread. Gloves, goggles, sulfuric acid, 12 V controlled current source.

I have done this as a kid. I do not remember the acid concentration but it should be easy to google.

Nooner · 2018-05-29T01:04:57.000Z

That’s a good point. The threads don’t need to be black. I’ve got everything but the acid.

I might look into that as a for fun project.

bansuri · 2018-05-29T02:27:40.000Z

If you want to keep it really cheap you could take the PCB out of some broken electronics, find a section that’s mostly unpopulated, cut an appropriately sized disc, solder the spring to it, dab of glue, and stick it in the tailcap.
As long as there are no throughs on the section it will be isolated from the tailcap and give you trouble-free lockout.
Barely chamfer the copper side to isolate it from any exposed aluminum.

Persechini · 2018-05-29T02:35:00.000Z

When I saw the title of the thread I got high hopes it was going to be something easy, but I don’t have any of the equipment necessary for reanodization T.T