Rethinking buying new lights...

Aleister · 2019-01-22T01:14:09.000Z

Anthon:

Ramping is nice for a fun light, but it has its drawbacks, like not knowing the runtime

For more serious use I prefer fully regulated fixed modes

Sadly, that’s true.

In an alternate universe, flashlights would have LCD screens - color touch screen for the high end models, monochrome backlit for the cheap ones - and runtime info for current level would always be displayed.

BlueSwordM · 2019-01-22T01:16:23.000Z

Wouldn’t that raise costs, along with low level power consumption brightness, along with standby?

I mean, it would be really nice for it to be activated on modes that consume over a predefined amount of power, but should be completely deactivated on lower than 50 lumen modes.

toddcshoe · 2019-01-22T01:20:52.000Z

ZED:

I find it easier to deal with Hank and get parts not on the site to fix or change a flashlight.

Yeah, that’s the nice thing about ZL’s. You don’t need to fix them or change them. I understand. It’s nice having parts available when you’re going to need them.

Aleister · 2019-01-22T01:28:38.000Z

BlueSwordM:

Wouldn’t that raise costs, along with low level power consumption brightness, along with standby?

I mean, it would be really nice for it to be activated on modes that consume over a predefined amount of power, but should be completely deactivated on lower than 50 lumen modes.

A non-lit LCD screen uses extremely little energy (there are watches with such screens that run for years on a 2016 cell). Backlit could be temporary, when you click a button for example. Or maybe the screen can be placed over a base which acts as a temporary switch, so when pressure is applied on the screen, the backlit turns on. There are many ways to minimize a screen’s usage, we see them applied in everyday electronics

Lightbringer · 2019-01-22T01:52:15.000Z

LightObsession:

My preferred UI is direct access to ML or Low and High or Turbo from off - then it doesn’t matter as much which mode the light is turned off in, if the light has mode memory.

Yep, that’s why I like my MH20: press’n’hold from off halfway for moonlight, fully for high. Regular click on for last-mode.

Think the ’32 has that, too, no? Gawd, all these UIs, it’s hard to keep ’em straight half the time. The SP10 does that nicely, press’n’hold for moonlight, doubleclick for high.

LightObsession · 2019-01-22T04:07:35.000Z

Lightbringer:

LightObsession:

My preferred UI is direct access to ML or Low and High or Turbo from off - then it doesn’t matter as much which mode the light is turned off in, if the light has mode memory.

Yep, that’s why I like my MH20: press’n’hold from off halfway for moonlight, fully for high. Regular click on for last-mode.

Think the ’32 has that, too, no? Gawd, all these UIs, it’s hard to keep ’em straight half the time. The SP10 does that nicely, press’n’hold for moonlight, doubleclick for high.

No, the ’32 only has direct access to the memorized mode and to turbo from off, regardless of which UI mode is being used. I wish it had direct access to ML from off without it being the memorized mode.

dealgrabber2002 · 2019-01-22T17:28:05.000Z

The SP32 V2.0 has ramping and preset modes? I think I might look into that light.

pennzy · 2019-01-22T17:40:02.000Z

The newer SP10 has 1 press to ML, 1 long press to memorized level and double press for turbo.

dealgrabber2002 · 2019-01-22T17:46:24.000Z

pennzy:

The newer SP10 has 1 press to ML, 1 long press to memorized level and double press for turbo.

Wouldn’t it be better if1 press for memorized level, long press for ML, and double press for Turbo?

pennzy · 2019-01-22T17:55:32.000Z

dealgrabber2002:

pennzy:

The newer SP10 has 1 press to ML, 1 long press to memorized level and double press for turbo.

Wouldn’t it be better if 1 press for memorized level, long press for ML, and double press for Turbo?

I wish it were short press for memorized, short press for off. Something other than short press to change modes(long press?)and short press for off. Yeah , long press from off would be ok to get to ML. I really hate long press for on/off though. If I short press for off by mistake while in high, which is what I use most, it goes into ML and it gets put into my pocket on ML and I don’t know it. That seems like a bad explanation.

Lightbringer · 2019-01-22T18:32:50.000Z

dealgrabber2002:

pennzy:

The newer SP10 has 1 press to ML, 1 long press to memorized level and double press for turbo.

Wouldn’t it be better if1 press for memorized level, long press for ML, and double press for Turbo?

Urg… there are soooooo many different versions of the SP10 (I don’t even bother with ‘A’, ‘B’, etc.) that it’s what you got in the light that counts.

I got the B before the B was renamed to A, and before the new A was changed to the newer A.

My head hurts… :weary:

LightObsession · 2019-01-22T18:42:25.000Z

dealgrabber2002:

The SP32 V2.0 has ramping and preset modes? I think I might look into that light.

Yes, preset modes is default when received.

It’s extremely easy to switch back and forth between preset modes and ramping.

Ramping is very easy to change directions between forward ramping and reverse ramping.

LightObsession · 2019-01-22T18:43:57.000Z

dealgrabber2002:

pennzy:

The newer SP10 has 1 press to ML, 1 long press to memorized level and double press for turbo.

Wouldn’t it be better if1 press for memorized level, long press for ML, and double press for Turbo?

It’s probably a safety issue for accidental turn on. It comes on in the lowest mode with a quick click, rather than Turbo, if that’s what was memorized.

pennzy · 2019-01-22T18:47:43.000Z

LightObsession:

dealgrabber2002:

pennzy:

The newer SP10 has 1 press to ML, 1 long press to memorized level and double press for turbo.

Wouldn’t it be better if1 press for memorized level, long press for ML, and double press for Turbo?

It’s probably a safety issue for accidental turn on. It comes on in the lowest mode with a quick click, rather than Turbo, if that’s what was memorized.

My washer addition takes care of that .

SIGShooter · 2019-01-23T01:02:17.000Z

dealgrabber2002:

pennzy:

The newer SP10 has 1 press to ML, 1 long press to memorized level and double press for turbo.

Wouldn’t it be better if1 press for memorized level, long press for ML, and double press for Turbo?

I bought a SP10 V2 in 12/2018 and it always starts in L when it’s turned on. The specs on the order page says it has H/M/L but mine has 4 levels plus the double click for turbo. A long press doesn’t do anything with regards to memorizing the level.

Jack_Kellar · 2019-01-23T04:11:17.000Z

Yeah, I’m not too too crazy over the edge of torch stuff anymore. All I want now is a Sofirn C01 (because warm white high CRI on an E01-style minilight is just win), a Sofirn SF13 (I really like the 2AA format), and a Convoy M2 with the new Nichia (a P60-style torch with a high CRI emitter on the cooler side is irresistible). It’s basic with a slight flair of fancy and it works nicely, so it works for a guy not obsessed with extraordinary lumens or candelas.

Anthon:

Ramping is nice for a fun light, but it has its drawbacks, like not knowing the runtime

For more serious use I prefer fully regulated fixed modes

Lightbringer:

Wellp, for what it’s worth, while I know my TK18s have ramping, I keep ’em on stepped modes. Same with the SP32v2, which I think have ramping, but I haven’t used any in ramping mode except maybe after just taking it out of the box.

Q8? Yeah, default is ramping, but if I need a Q8 to begin with, it’s for the 5k lemons so it’s doubleclick to daylight anyway. Else, yeah, click’n’hold to ramp up to something less than full-tilt.

To me, ramping is a nice curiosity, but I stick with fixed modes anyway. It’s nice to be able to select which type you want.

Right there with you two. Predictability is not always a bad thing, and I like my modes and their runtimes predictable.

xevious · 2019-01-23T23:31:04.000Z

Aleister:

Anthon:

Ramping is nice for a fun light, but it has its drawbacks, like not knowing the runtime

For more serious use I prefer fully regulated fixed modes

Sadly, that’s true.

In an alternate universe, flashlights would have LCD screens - color touch screen for the high end models, monochrome backlit for the cheap ones - and runtime info for current level would always be displayed.

Funny, I was thinking that recently… I have a number of digital watches, all plain LCD… one color LCD. I presume that because lights are used when there’s dark to eliminate, LED indicators are the norm and more recently OLED displays are being implemented. And actually, a nice micro LED backlight to an OLED screen is low enough power consumption to be viable. I expect in the future for multi-mode flashlights we’ll see more intelligent displays. Not just a confirmation of what mode you’re in, but also to show things like inner temperature, battery voltage, and battery charge level.

Macka17 · 2019-01-24T01:08:02.000Z

Going back a few yrs. Yes.
The Chinese items. Including LED lights were “Chinese” items.
IE You get what you pay for.
But nowadays. WITH QC. They are top line. Probably 80+% of all items manufactured. Are China Based.
Convoy, Jetbeam, Sofurn, Astrolux etc, while definitely “budget”.
Are NOT really all that far behind them. Quality and efficiency wise.
While only being a fraction of the price.
The average user really, has no need for the “named” items.
Everybody makes mistakes. At all levels. Look at European cars and their inability to develop trustworthy electronics. Give ’em time.
The drivers etc from BLF and it’s members. Have advanced these electronics by yrs.
and the “minor” players taking notice of such and following them.
are taking the budget market ahead in leaps and bounds.
Keep it up people.

Just looking at some of the older… Torches I bought 6/8/10 yrs ago. Compared to today’s. They came from a different planet. (I kept a couple as reminders)

Jack_Kellar · 2019-01-24T01:25:16.000Z

xevious:

Aleister:

Anthon:

Ramping is nice for a fun light, but it has its drawbacks, like not knowing the runtime

For more serious use I prefer fully regulated fixed modes

Sadly, that’s true.

In an alternate universe, flashlights would have LCD screens - color touch screen for the high end models, monochrome backlit for the cheap ones - and runtime info for current level would always be displayed.

Funny, I was thinking that recently… I have a number of digital watches, all plain LCD… one color LCD. I presume that because lights are used when there’s dark to eliminate, LED indicators are the norm and more recently OLED displays are being implemented. And actually, a nice micro LED backlight to an OLED screen is low enough power consumption to be viable. I expect in the future for multi-mode flashlights we’ll see more intelligent displays. Not just a confirmation of what mode you’re in, but also to show things like inner temperature, battery voltage, and battery charge level.

I mean, the Nitecore TUP sort of does that. Although it’s as far from budget as it can get without being overpriced.

xevious · 2019-01-24T15:12:41.000Z

Jack Kellar:

I mean, the Nitecore TUP sort of does that. Although it’s as far from budget as it can get without being overpriced.

Yes, it does it rather well as far as I can see (don’t own one). Sure would be nice if they had a little more control over the menu system so you could configure it to your liking. I’m puzzled they didn’t go with a full icon based system. Using English words for labels does make it less “international friendly.”

It seems the Nitecore TUP may not be selling all that well, because there were some steep discounts available during the winter holiday season. The max was about $25 off, which is substantial. That brings it much closer to higher end budget pricing.

For these kinds of innovative lights, it’s very tempting to jump in, but I try to restrain myself and wait for a revision that addresses issues. I do wonder if there would’ve been much of a cost savings for Nitecore if they went with an LED back lit LCD instead. See CASIO GD-350 as an example.

So at least there’s always a display at hand. And then when you start pressing buttons, the back light would come on. Or… for a more “tactical” operation, have the backlight separately controlled by another button. You press it and it makes any button press activate the back light for at least 30 seconds. When off, the backlight stays off so you keep a stealth profile.