[Review] 77 Outdoors D25 Headlamp (18650)

mitsuki08 · 2020-08-22T06:08:47.000Z

JasonWW:

mitsuki08:

Does anyone with the D25S have issues when using click and hold to cycle high to low? Any click or click and hold just cycles from high to low and doesn’t want to cycle low to high unless turned off.

I thought the D25S had the same UI as the D10. On the D10 it only cycles from high to low and never the other way around.

I have the same UI as Funtastic. It’s not really a bother but it does have memory mode so it would be nice to go down when in the medium modes rather than cycle through high. I also can’t seem to go down in modes immediately after turning it on. Just seems like a weird behavior. Though at it’s price I can’t really complain much. I knew I should have gotten more than one Quadrupel driver :person_facepalming:

Funtastic:

For anyone interested just get the Sofirn D25S which they have installed SST-40’s and updated the firmware.

On/Off - Single click
Hold - Stepped levels - Release and hold within 2 sec changes direction
Double click - Strobe, Beacon

JasonWW · 2020-08-22T06:14:44.000Z

You need to be aware that there is a feature in the UI that gives you the ability to jump to high if you click within 3 seconds of turn on.

mitsuki08 · 2020-08-24T16:54:13.000Z

JasonWW:

You need to be aware that there is a feature in the UI that gives you the ability to jump to high if you click within 3 seconds of turn on.

Oh ok I think I get it now. Thanks. Though mine is just within a second. The timing seems to leave little room for error on mine. I guess I’ll just use L-H cycle to avoid frustrations.

Wieselflinkpro · 2021-06-06T18:53:32.000Z

Today I modded all my 3 Headlamps.

with 2 Anduril Drivers from Quadrupel and one Attiny 412 from gchart. The second Attiny got a broken leg after some problems with a short causing the LED was always on.
But finaly all 3 Headlamps has ramping with Ramping iOS or Anduril.

I had two Drivers with Ver03 and one with Ver01, so the Ver03 got the Attiny 412.

Thanks to you both.

I changed the LEDs too:
2x LH351d 2700K + 5000K 90CRI
2x XM-L2 NW (3B or similar)
1x SST40 5000K

Drivers and Flashlights from recent posts for reference:

Wieselflinkpro:

gchart:

Wieselflinkpro:

R0tten:

Sorry to ask this question again…. but I plan on getting one. Has anyone officially determined if these XM-L2 LED’s are not a real cree? I played with a wowtac a2s then a sofirn sp40 and I was thinking of getting one of those for myself. I then ran into the D25 and thought it would be within 1-2% difference between them, since they all have XM-L2’s. I would actually expect the D25 is better because it has 2 XM-L2’s? I’m not sure I understand.

They has XP-Footprint and I think they are no genuine Cree LEDs.
They looks similar to XP-L LEDs.

Strange. It must vary from source to source. Mine had the 5050 (XM-L2) footprint:

You are right, I checkt my lights.
The older one, with the driver-pics in this thread has XP-LEDs. This is from Xanes, ordered from Banggood.
The newer from Aliexpress has XM-L2 - Style LEDs, with “LMP” written on the LED.

Wieselflinkpro:

Its a pity.
Yesterday I wanted to solder the Attiny from gchart. But I have Rev1 and it didn’t work.
Once I connect the battery it switches on at low level. After (not while) I pressed the switch it dimms down to lowes mode. And there is no way to make it brighter or switch it off.

Some Quotes for reference:

gchart:

Uh oh. Glad you pointed this out, Jason. Glad I haven’t sent out too many MCU’s… they’ll need to check which version of the driver they have.

Here’s mine (D25) with the MCU removed. It appears to be the same layout as Tom_E’s

JasonWW:

Wow, this is a good thread. I wish I had found it earlier.

Someone said earlier that the D25 and D10 had the same driver.

Here is Tom E’s stock D25 driver. - - - - - - Here is Flail’s stock D10 driver.

Note the dot on the chip.

The pcb layout looks the same. Maybe these are different chips and the dot has a different meaning for each chip? I really don’t know.

JasonWW:

The pin on the upper right in the driver pics looks like it goes to Batt Neg on both drivers.

Tom’s D25 - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Flail’s D10

Different revisions

gchart · 2021-06-06T19:20:16.000Z

Glad you got them up and going!

Quadrupel · 2021-06-07T19:44:18.000Z

Blazer296 · 2021-06-20T06:15:58.000Z

@ gchart. No pics at the moment, but 2 of mine are ver:05. Any idea if your mcu swap will work on those?

Side note. Where in central Illinois? I thought I was the only non-Sh#*cago Illinois resident here.

darosk · 2021-06-20T08:04:46.000Z

Are there any TIR optics that are simple drop-ins for either the D25/D10? Browsed quickly through this thread and it looks like the ones that people recommend still need some shaving down to fit.

gchart · 2021-07-17T13:52:02.000Z

Blazer296:

@ gchart. No pics at the moment, but 2 of mine are ver:05. Any idea if your mcu swap will work on those?

Side note. Where in central Illinois? I thought I was the only non-Sh#*cago Illinois resident here.

Sorry for the late reply. I’m in a town on the outskirts of Peoria. I feel the same way about that other city.

I don’t know for sure about version 5. Mine were 3. But the MCUs are inexpensive enough that it wouldn’t cost much to try if you’re interested.

Ma3oska · 2021-11-03T20:00:16.000Z

More LEDs - more Adidas

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003317553406.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.48976e88D8OQuY&algo_pvid=535867f4-458a-4942-91f6-f6c4a40bcd55&algo_exp_id=535867f4-458a-4942-91f6-f6c4a40bcd55-1&pdp_ext_f={"sku_id"%3A"12000025207147146"}

Quadrupel · 2021-11-03T21:07:55.000Z

“The manufacturer is ”Aheitong” “:https://detail.1688.com/offer/646068512239.html?spm=a261y.7663282.hotsale.5.5c3855e6XDjFmg All other like Sofirn or Boruit or… are resellers only.

Ma3oska · 2021-11-04T11:36:37.000Z

Thank you for informations Quadrupel.

Can you tell me, if it is possible to open front part with reflectors and change LEDs? I dont see any screws?

Quadrupel · 2021-11-04T11:41:29.000Z

Dont know, but probably glued.

Agro · 2021-11-04T12:15:01.000Z

Ma3oska:

Thank you for informations Quadrupel.

Can you tell me, if it is possible to open front part with reflectors and change LEDs? I dont see any screws?

Depends, they probably changed the process over time. Most people were successful with opening D25-family lights, but some reported that they couldn’t open theirs.

Ma3oska · 2021-11-04T14:06:33.000Z

Yeah, I think so too.

D25 have user friendly design.
I have early version of D25 from start of production, where MCPCB with LEDs is pressed to the hole in body headlamp and there is no mass under it.
Second version of D25 from 12/2020- BORUIT have flat surface under MCPCB with good thermal path.

I was curious, what type of design have this headlamp and if it is possible to swap LEDs and make some “Nichia flooder” from it.

Quadrupel · 2021-11-04T14:36:56.000Z

Just get D10 and few various angle 20mm TIR optics.

blueb8llz · 2021-11-04T18:15:01.000Z

Ma3oska:

More LEDs - more Adidas

Page Not Found - Aliexpress.com

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OXK8uu59zKg

Thanks. Pretty decent upgrade to my d25s. But I wonder how much brighter this 5 led version is. It’s says 3000 lumens. Not sure about that.

Jan910 · 2022-01-25T20:47:04.000Z

hi, someone tried to insert the driver from the lumintop fw3a?

Verodin · 2022-04-06T07:20:41.000Z

gchart:

Tom E:

Wow, nice mod! … How did you get access to the driver?

Thanks Tom! And kudos on RampingIOS, I like this headlamp 10x now. I really would like some different emitters, but my only spare XM-L2’s are cool white. I’m kinda waiting to see if anyone gets the 4000K or 5000K SST-40’s in. Those are about the only other 3V 5050 LEDs I can think of unless (outside of those crazy 3V 50.2’s). But I really don’t want to dump a bunch of money in a cheap headlamp.

Unscrew the end cap with the 2 notches CCW. It’s probably just tight. Mine had no hint of glue anywhere. There is an o-ring though that might be contributing to the resistance.

Desolder the LED wires

Using a wooden stick or something, push on the PCBs from the battery tube area

BTW, I’ve seen tear-downs of the single emitter version too. Same/similar driver. But the LED was mounted on our typical 20mm star, makings emitter swaps simple… and optics and option (link). The simplicity of this driver kinda bugs me, though. It’s just a few current limiting resistors being PWM’ed.

Tried to open a D25LR, same host. But geez it’s impossible, even almost broke my tool. Turned CCW and it maybe moved a little judging by the few creaking noises, but nothing else. Completely stuck :person_facepalming:

Quadrupel · 2022-04-06T15:45:56.000Z

To open you have to turn clockwise.