“REVIEW”: BlitzWolf BW-ET1 – 1 or 2*AA /// 1*14500 Flashlight – 600lumens [PIC HEAVY] ***(+ discount codes)***

MascaratumB · 2018-04-09T15:29:18.000Z

djozz:

MascaratumB:

Wow djozz, thanks for these values!!!

Hum, I have one doubt (or one need of clarification) though: the “303” corresponds to the max output (lumens) after 30 seconds with a Li-Ion battery?!!!
That is impressively low comparing to what is presented in specs!

I ask this because the Sofirn SF14 specs point to a max output of 600 lumens (on a 14500 Li-Ion), just like the BlitzWolf BW-ET1, and on the night I took the photos, I tried both, side to side and they seemed very similar.

At naked eye and no measurements, the BW-ET1 - on Turbo with a Sofirn 14500 battery - is pretty similar to the Sofirn SF14, on max output with Efest IMR14500 650mAh (purple) - both on beam “intensity” and throwiness. (Despite the XPG2 of the SF14 produces a slightly more intense hotspot)

As I mentioned, I have no means to compare both objectively and to provide numbers, but if these 303 lumens are real after 30 seconds…I wonder if it ever gets close to the 600 advertised lumens… :person_facepalming:

About the size…I dare to say that this is a hardly “hideable” flashlight I do like the robustness it has, though

Once again, thanks so much djozz!! Feel free to post any information you find useful to enrich the data about this light :+1:

Ai, it appears that I messed up rather than Blitzwolf :person_facepalming: , I assumed that the highest setting was the top of the ramp but it is not, a double-click gets you a higher setting (this is not clear from the manual btw). I hope the lowest level is still the bottom of the ramp, or is there a trick also to get to the

Corrected numbers:

Li-ion
Lowest 3.2 lumen
Highest 495 lumen

NiMh
Lowest 2 lumen
Highest 150 lumen

Oh, well, and I also missed that in the review! :person_facepalming:
I will check toninght when I have the flashlight with me, as I can recall correctly about this situation!

The bottom of the ramp, as far as I perceived, is the lowest one. If you ramp down, when reaching the bottom the light will blink 1 time.
About the top, it blinks 3 times, but I don’t remember if there was a visible difference between that top level and the turbo (through double click).

In any way, 495 lumen is better than the earlier numbers you gave, of course!

But now I ask again (because I have no idea :person_facepalming: ) : droping about 100 lumens from 0 to 30 seconds, with a fully charged Li-Ion battery, in a light like this, is it normal?! This is, assuming that the initial really were 600 lumens…

Thanks again djozz!! :+1:

djozz · 2018-04-09T16:03:50.000Z

I checked once more the purple Efest, extra topped up on the charger now (first measurement was with a few days rested battery), and it helps a bit: 540 lumen at 3 seconds, 520 lumen at 30 seconds.

And I could not resist this pic, I will add that including li-ion batteries the Blitzwolff is 89 gram, the D4 112 gram. I will spare the Blitzwolf any further comparisons

MascaratumB · 2018-04-09T16:54:31.000Z

djozz:

I checked once more the purple Efest, extra topped up on the charger now (first measurement was with a few days rested battery), and it helps a bit: 540 lumen at 3 seconds, 520 lumen at 30 seconds.

And I could not resist this pic, I will add that including li-ion batteries the Blitzwolff is 89 gram, the D4 112 gram. I will spare the Blitzwolf any further comparisons

Ehehe, I compared it with a Convoy S2+ and the BW is larger
Thanks for the final numbers. It may not be 600 but it is closer !

My feeling is that it could be different in many aspects and if BlitzWolf wants to make nice things, they can keep the robustness of body, but the size, and even UI and / or driver must be different!

Well, at least for some of us enthusiasts

Thanks again djozz

Phlogiston · 2018-04-09T19:43:04.000Z

I’ll second that. Reading this part of WalkIntoTheLight’s review was an eye-opener:

WalkIntoTheLight:

Output: Max 150 lumens (AA), or 500 lumens (14500). Low 1 lumen (either battery type). Stepless for everything in-between. Graph included below. Output is flatly-regulated, except for a pre-programmed step-down from max.

Run-time:
Max (AA) – 4 hours on a 1900mAh Eneloop, but because of a step-down this is mostly at a 75 lumen output. 9 hours run-time on 2xAA.
Max (14500) – 1.25 hours, though the step-down means that most of this is at a 250 lumen output.
Moonlight – 250 hours.

It basically ended my interest in the light, because the stepdown from maximum is hardwired to kick in even with the AA cell(s). Completely unnecessary.

I’m not sure about the ramping interface, either, but I might have given that a go if it hadn’t been for the AA stepdown.

By comparison, the Sofirn SF13 I ordered during the AliExpress anniversary sale - I haven’t had the light in my hands yet - is supposed to do 420lm on 2×AA and step down to 196lm after 3 minutes. Even the stepdown is better than the Blitzwolf’s 2×AA maximum.

chadvone · 2018-04-09T19:48:45.000Z

thanks for this comparison and review. 1/2 AA had me thinking half AA 14250

Nicolicous · 2018-04-10T11:36:14.000Z

lets hope someone with good electrical background can analyse the driver and find a way stacking resistor to get more current to the led.

im hopeless but will give it a crack :confounded:

MascaratumB · 2018-04-10T13:05:58.000Z

Phlogiston:

I’ll second that. Reading this part of WalkIntoTheLight’s review was an eye-opener:

WalkIntoTheLight:

Output: Max 150 lumens (AA), or 500 lumens (14500). Low 1 lumen (either battery type). Stepless for everything in-between. Graph included below. Output is flatly-regulated, except for a pre-programmed step-down from max.

Run-time:
Max (AA) – 4 hours on a 1900mAh Eneloop, but because of a step-down this is mostly at a 75 lumen output. 9 hours run-time on 2xAA.
Max (14500) – 1.25 hours, though the step-down means that most of this is at a 250 lumen output.
Moonlight – 250 hours.

It basically ended my interest in the light, because the stepdown from maximum is hardwired to kick in even with the AA cell(s). Completely unnecessary.

I’m not sure about the ramping interface, either, but I might have given that a go if it hadn’t been for the AA stepdown.

By comparison, the Sofirn SF13 I ordered during the AliExpress anniversary sale - I haven’t had the light in my hands yet - is supposed to do 420lm on 2×AA and step down to 196lm after 3 minutes. Even the stepdown is better than the Blitzwolf’s 2×AA maximum.

Yup, I guess the Sofirn SF13, Jaxman M2, Zanflare F2, Manker E12 and other similar 2*AA lights are probably “better” than this one, in output and eventually in other aspects.
If we don’t compare it with the others, this light has a nice lowest mode, theoretical UI (except for the slow ramping) and nice “body”, but having many others, it gets hard to say this is “awesome”

One advantage I can see is that this one can be “elongated” or “shortened” if we want! (not sure if this acts as a Pro, but it still is a nice feature).

Still, other aspects… :disappointed:

chadvone:

thanks for this comparison and review. 1/2 AA had me thinking half AA 14250

Ahah, thank you I will change the title to avoid confusions

Nicolicous:

lets hope someone with good electrical background can analyse the driver and find a way stacking resistor to get more current to the led.

im hopeless but will give it a crack :confounded:

Hum putting this light working with 2*14500 batteries….that would be nice :smiling_imp: Muahahaha!!!

Or just making it work better with a single cell…

I guess that I will try to dismantle mine, just to check its “entrails” ! I’ll post photos later (maybe tomorrow, if I manage to…)

bikenber73 · 2018-04-10T13:25:42.000Z

Could someone get two spacers and run 3 * AA in this light?

MascaratumB · 2018-04-11T11:00:39.000Z

Yesterday I picked the BW-ET1 and “tried” to dismantle the head to accesse the driver…
But…this is what I found :person_facepalming:

Sorry, but not even in the name of flashlight science I will pass this stage, I would probably ruin the driver and the light!
maybe later, if I have the guts to do so, I will rip it off in any way :nerd_face:

Nicolicous · 2018-04-11T11:05:22.000Z

wires are still in contact with driver and it should still work…. dont panic

i mod many lights with e-switch and it’s normal

MascaratumB · 2018-04-11T11:10:40.000Z

Nicolicous:

wires are still in contact with driver and it should still work…. dont panic

i mod many lights with e-switch and it’s normal

Yeah, it works perfectly, but the driver has all that white glue or silicone or whatever, so I didn’t push or pull anything!
It was a open and close surgery only
I thought it was more “clean” to get to the driver, but…I was wrong!
If I was sure that any of Lexel’s driver would work here (and if I was sure that I would put this back together), I would try it but this way…

I’ll think about it for a while

Nicolicous · 2018-04-11T11:13:39.000Z

it looks like they injected glue inside to driver to hold the driver in place.

Most flashlight have retainer ring on the driver to hold them in place

MascaratumB · 2018-04-11T13:39:35.000Z

Nicolicous:

it looks like they injected glue inside to driver to hold the driver in place.

Most flashlight have retainer ring on the driver to hold them in place

Yup, precisely, I thought that even with the retaining ring it could be a “press fit” driver, but it is full of glue.
And the glue seems to be tough, not soft one…

I’ll see if I manage to unsolder the switch, take the glue of and then, see if I can get the driver OFF.

But…the MCPCB is also glued… So, I expect this to be quite messy

I’ll examine mods with other e-switch drivers to check if this light would take one…maybe for 1 or 2 14500 batteries :smiling_imp:

Phlogiston · 2018-04-15T02:18:40.000Z

bikenber73:

Could someone get two spacers and run 3 * AA in this light?

It doesn’t look like it to me. Looking at MascaratumB’s photos, both tubes have external threads at both ends. To be able to chain tubes for 3×AA, each tube would need to have an internal thread at one end and an external thread at the other.

I like the idea of a 3×AA light, too

264 · 2018-04-15T05:31:26.000Z

Phlogiston:

bikenber73:

Could someone get two spacers and run 3 * AA in this light?

It doesn’t look like it to me. Looking at MascaratumB’s photos, both tubes have external threads at both ends. To be able to chain tubes for 3×AA, each tube would need to have an internal thread at one end and an external thread at the other.

I like the idea of a 3×AA light, too

The original Olight S15’s could use 3 AA’s with extension tubes.

Just ordered the Blitzwolf flashlight. I’d rather have that not be glue under the power button. Maybe it could be thermal grease?
Nice overall review.

MascaratumB · 2018-04-15T19:33:47.000Z

264:

Phlogiston:

bikenber73:

Could someone get two spacers and run 3 * AA in this light?

It doesn’t look like it to me. Looking at MascaratumB’s photos, both tubes have external threads at both ends. To be able to chain tubes for 3×AA, each tube would need to have an internal thread at one end and an external thread at the other.

I like the idea of a 3×AA light, too

The original Olight S15’s could use 3 AA’s with extension tubes.

Just ordered the Blitzwolf flashlight. I’d rather have that not be glue under the power button. Maybe it could be thermal grease?
Nice overall review.

Hum, my guess is that it is glue, not thermal grease! It is very dense inside the head host, and it can even be seen next to the MCPCB.
I believe that it is some sort of glue or silicone, maybe. It may take a while to take it out , in case of doing some mods!!

EDIT: And thanks for your words

Phlogiston · 2018-04-17T00:49:30.000Z

264:

The original Olight S15’s could use 3 AA’s with extension tubes.

Thank you - I had a vague memory of a light like that, and the S15 is the one I was thinking of. If memory serves, when Selfbuilt reviewed it, he found that it was OK with 1×AA and good with 2×AA, but strangely inefficient with 3×AA.

I didn’t see the point of that, so I never bought one. If I’d been thinking, I’d’ve bought one and used it with all the extensions, but only 2×AA and an AA short-circuit spacer. I like long lights, I always feel like I’m going to fumble anything less than about 125mm.

MascaratumB · 2018-04-19T23:38:54.000Z

In name of the flashlight science…I endep up opening the BlitzWolf BW-ET1 :person_facepalming:

Here are some photos after opening it!
Major surprise for me: the LED plate is not MCPCB, it is 1mm aluminium thickness, 16mm diameter .
All that stuff was “glued” with some sort of silicone. It was easy to remove it from the driver, after I took it out.

I ended up damaging the driver a little bit.

BUT, I have a major question now: where can I find a 17mm driver that will fit this light (and that can be “attached” to the side e-switch ) and that can be used with 1 or/and 2 14500 Li-Ion batteries?

I wanted to do one of the following things:
a) turn this into a triple, or,
b) use this with a XHP led, or,
c) simply used this with a LED that can be used with one or 2 Li-Ion batteries!

I am ignorant about some of these things of drivers, so I appreciate some help on what can be done to mod this light

Thanks in advance :+1:

Nicolicous · 2018-04-20T12:58:32.000Z

lexel can build a driver your u 2 x14500 Li-Ion to run XHP with narsil ramping UI.

it should cost around 15 bucks

MascaratumB · 2018-04-21T17:15:33.000Z

Nicolicous:

lexel can build a driver your u 2 x14500 Li-Ion to run XHP with narsil ramping UI.

it should cost around 15 bucks

Hum, gotta make some measurements then! :+1:
I tried a 17mm driver I have from Lexel, and there are 2 problems: the driver’s width must be bigger (18 or 19mm, or eventually 20mm so that it fits perfectly on the head); the driver must be single sided :person_facepalming:

I don’t know if he does single sided drivers, but the chips on the back of the driver will certainly be a issue to make this mod!

BUT I like the idea of having Narsil running on this and a XHP (maybe XHP35 - HI or XHP70.2 NW) on this!

Thanks for the tip Nico