[Review] Klarus XT1A (2018) (1000 lm, Dual tail switch, XP-L HD, 1x14500/AA, on-cell charging)

bmengineer · 2018-10-25T01:24:25.000Z

Thanks for reading! It definitely doesn’t need long batteries since it works fine with NiMH, I’ll check my efests in it tomorrow. Any other questions?

bmengineer · 2018-10-25T17:43:57.000Z

I took a peek for you, my Efest 14500 cells have no issues with fit, light works just fine with those.

MascaratumB · 2018-10-25T18:04:14.000Z

bmengineer:

I took a peek for you, my Efest 14500 cells have no issues with fit, light works just fine with those.

Hey mate, thanks for checking it out To have some versatility is quite good, an having only unprotected cells and 2 short button tops, I wanted to be sure!

I am still on the line to get this or not (and take the XT1C), but at least I know it takes those cells!
Thanks for taking the time to check :+1:

bkp · 2018-10-31T17:21:01.000Z

Great review.
I just received my XT1A yesterday and too am experiencing the ‘flickering’ you referenced. However, mine does it in a particular way. With a 14500, it might flicker for about 10 seconds (maybe 20) then it seems to normalize. With an AA NiMH (Eneloop Pro) or Alkaline, it always flickers. Here’s the weird part, it only does this when activated from the primary switch (round, forward clicky).

When using the ‘mode switch’ and cycling from low -> med -> high, I never see the flicker regardless of battery type.

I didn’t notice any comment from @Narmattaru of this in his review, so I’m wondering if there’s a faulty batch. I have an email out to Klarus, I’ll post if given any direction.

bmengineer · 2018-11-01T10:31:01.000Z

bkp:

Great review.
I just received my XT1A yesterday and too am experiencing the ‘flickering’ you referenced. However, mine does it in a particular way. With a 14500, it might flicker for about 10 seconds (maybe 20) then it seems to normalize. With an AA NiMH (Eneloop Pro) or Alkaline, it always flickers. Here’s the weird part, it only does this when activated from the primary switch (round, forward clicky).

When using the ‘mode switch’ and cycling from low -> med -> high, I never see the flicker regardless of battery type.

I didn’t notice any comment from @Narmattaru of this in his review, so I’m wondering if there’s a faulty batch. I have an email out to Klarus, I’ll post if given any direction.

That’s strange. Maybe something about the way the two tubes are arranged is causing it?

Thanks for reading, and sorry you’re having trouble.

junglejim13660 · 2018-11-10T01:39:35.000Z

I just got my XT1A today. My light has the exact same problem with flickering. Cleaned the contacts inside the head and on the barrel, I even tried 3 different brands of 14500 batteries, none of these solutions have worked. I’ll contact Klarus on Monday.

bmengineer · 2018-11-12T01:46:31.000Z

That’s disappointing, let me know how it works out

HONDARIDER · 2018-11-12T03:45:02.000Z

Mine seems to not have any flickering issue. I do wish it had a 4 or 500 lumen mode instead of the junp from 80 to 1000. Even a 200 lumen mode would work better.

bmengineer · 2018-11-12T13:27:04.000Z

If you’d prefer a lower high, you can always run it on a NiMH cell - That’s what I’m more likely to do.

bkp · 2018-11-12T14:43:46.000Z

I’m still awaiting further direction from Klarus, I’m not sure if they’re going to replace it or have me send it back for repair.

Another thing I noticed, the XT1A (at least mine) doesn’t work with a lithium primary (L91).

junglejim13660 · 2018-11-12T17:57:26.000Z

I over tightened the head to the barrel and the flickering has stopped. Shouldn’t have to do this with a new light. I found the Nitecore NL1485- 850mAh 14500 will not work in the XT1A due to it’s additional length. If this continues to be an issue, be sure to make a video showcasing the flickering, Banggood wants video proof of your issue.

bkp · 2018-11-12T18:02:15.000Z

Flickering with the provided Klarus 14500 is intermittent on mine. seems worse when freshly charged. the flickering is persistent with a NiMH or Alkaline, and over-tightening didn’t seem to make any difference.

Bravi · 2018-11-27T06:05:31.000Z

I FIXED THE FLICKER!

I just received this light a few days ago and noticed the flickering only on HIGH output. It also wouldn't let me change the output levels while it was flickering.

Based on junglejim13660's comments, I looked at the electrical contacts. Initially, I thought the contacts were the body threads themselves like a Surefire—but then I noticed the gold-ish ring inside the head unit (top of picture), and the very thin inner ring on the tail body (bottom of picture). It made sense to me that it was trying to push higher amperage across what is essentially a one-man rope bridge causing the flickering.

I grabbed a very flat knife sharpening stone and very carefully 'lapped' the tail body contact ring (bottom of picture)—almost as you would lap an AR-10/15 upper receiver—so that it would have a more even and flush fit with the head unit contacts. I cleaned the contacts and reassembled the light. No more flicker!

To check my theory, I loosened the body a tiny bit; just enough so that the connections made contact. Behold, the light flickered again. I tightened it back up with normal torque and the flicker is gone once again. The one-man bridge has been upgraded to wood. I assume the lack of bare aluminum contact surface is a compromise for a thinner overall body. Though, this fix is something that can be easily done in the QA process.

junglejim13660 · 2018-11-27T20:22:36.000Z

Good fix Bravi. I’m going use your method to permanently stop the flickering. I was also thinking that one or both of the mating surfaces were machined out of round.

I hope everyone who has this issue finds your post!

MascaratumB · 2019-02-04T15:03:00.000Z

@ bmengineer or anyone that has this light: is the bezel removable (even it if is “hard” glued)?

bmengineer · 2019-02-04T18:29:06.000Z

I couldn’t get mine off while I still had it, but I didn’t try any tools or heat.

MascaratumB · 2019-02-04T22:01:19.000Z

bmengineer:

I couldn’t get mine off while I still had it, but I didn’t try any tools or heat.

Thanks for the answer! I believe it is probably glued the hard way! I’m just making eventual plans for when my XT1C arrives :smiling_imp:
Thanks again! :+1:

bmengineer · 2019-02-04T22:52:17.000Z

MascaratumB:

bmengineer:

I couldn’t get mine off while I still had it, but I didn’t try any tools or heat.

Thanks for the answer! I believe it is probably glued the hard way! I’m just making eventual plans for when my XT1C arrives :smiling_imp:
Thanks again! :+1:

Just for curiosity’s sake, let me know if you manage to get into it.

MascaratumB · 2019-02-26T17:08:36.000Z

bmengineer:

Just for curiosity’s sake, let me know if you manage to get into it.

Sure will do

d_t_a · 2019-02-08T05:44:29.000Z

I would also like to share what may or may not be the same issue as the above.

On highest mode, whether with 14500 or AA battery, my newly-received XT1A (that was a few weeks ago) also has flickering. Unlike the above, the flickering does not stop in 10 seconds or 20 seconds, like what others mentioned. Instead, the flashlight will flash (like strobe) for a while, and sometimes go back to flickering. It sometimes can change modes but sometimes it’s more difficult to change modes with the paddle-switch, when this happens.

I have show this issue (made a Youtube video) to the online store where I got it, and they asked me for the serial number on the body tube. After giving them those info, they said that the problem is the tailswitch (body tube+tailswitch assembly). They then shipped me the replacement body tube/tailswitch assembly, which I just received.

After using the new replacement tube/tailswitch — the flickering does not occur anymore whether on 14500 or AA battery. So, it is indeed a body tube/tailswitch problem that’s causing the flickering issue.