Review - Lumintop ODF30 XHP70.2 3500lm 19600cd 280m - by Lock

klrman · 2018-11-20T21:19:22.000Z

JasonWW:

ChibiM:

anybody else problems with mode switching?
Mine sometimes hangs.. so it doesn't change modes.. I push the button and nothing happens, and after 2 or more clicks it changes modes.

I’d the switch lined up with the cru be button? Does it click every time? If so, maybe the switch is not making good contact internally? Some of Lumintops GT Minis have this switch problem. They might be using the exact same switch for both models.

I just checked my faulty one and it clicked but did not turn on. Is there a better switch that you know of? Is does other weird things such as going on turbo when turning on and then not switching out of modes etc. Seems like its a combination of things, maybe switch and driver? I want to put a NW 70.2 in there so maybe I could swap the driver if I can figure it all out.

ChibiM · 2018-11-20T21:26:04.000Z

Oh boy... That is really annoying... good to know that I'm not alone. They asked me to send it back, but that would cost me $30 for registered post... not going to do that. Also, the parts are glued, so I can't even reach the driver (plus switch)

It 'clicks' every time, it just doesn't change modes.

I took off the rubber switch button and used a piece of plastic to change modes, and after about 20 clicks it hasn't skipped a mode... so hmmm maybe something going on with the rubber boot

klrman · 2018-11-20T21:31:25.000Z

I have the ODF30C and still the same problems. I not sure if taking off the rubber button is going to work long term as mine still clicks when it is stubborn but still won't turn on or off or switch modes when it is playing up.

Thought everything was glued as I can't even separate the tube from the head, let alone the bezel.

ChibiM · 2018-11-20T21:33:55.000Z

Exactly. The battery tube is impossible to remove from the head..

So klrman you are saying that the ODF30C has the exact same problem?

I am able to remove the bezel though

klrman · 2018-11-20T21:40:35.000Z

Yes, it has been written about before, exactly same problem. Seems Lumintop carried over the same switch.

Have to try the bezel again tonight thanks, and then maybe heat the tube a little as well. Hope I don't over heat it and mess up

the driver.

JasonWW · 2018-11-20T22:09:11.000Z

ChibiM:

Exactly. The battery tube is impossible to remove from the head…

You need a vice with padding to hold the battery tube. A heat gun to warm up the glue and a rubber strap wrench to get some good leverage on the head to twist it loose.

Sorry about the auto-corrected response earlier. I fixed it.

aginthelaw · 2018-11-20T22:11:46.000Z

I just started having the same problem with my Odl20c

JasonWW · 2018-11-20T22:13:07.000Z

ChibiM:

They asked me to send it back, but that would cost me $30 for registered post… not going to do that. Also, the parts are glued, so I can’t even reach the driver (plus switch)

They should pay for return shipping or else just send a replacement light.

They shoot themselves in the foot by gluing it shut. Instead of sending a replacement driver (which most folks here are capable of swapping), they have to send a whole light.

ChibiM · 2018-11-20T22:25:33.000Z

Yep, that's right. They could have sent a replacement driver.

no problem about the auto correction part...I didn't notice anything strange ;)

BVH · 2019-01-25T01:10:49.000Z

I just got this light and the ODL20C. Both of the manuals say the charging LED goes from Red to Blue at completion of charging. Both of my lights slow blink Red when charging and then go solid Red when charging complete. I verified this by measuring cell voltage out of the light with my Fluke 115. Both are at about 4.18x. I even put the cells on my icharger 4010 and ensured they terminated at a 4.20 V charge at 10% termination current. Put the cells back in the lights and plugged them in and same result. Both are solid red. I left them both plugged in for an hour after turning solid red hoping for blue but no dice. I’ve never seen the Blue?

JasonWW · 2019-01-25T03:23:32.000Z

BVH:

I just got this light and the ODL20C. Both of the manuals say the charging LED goes from Red to Blue at completion of charging. Both of my lights slow blink Red when charging and then go solid Red when charging complete. I verified this by measuring cell voltage out of the light with my Fluke 115. Both are at about 4.18x. I even put the cells on my icharger 4010 and ensured they terminated at a 4.20 V charge at 10% termination current. Put the cells back in the lights and plugged them in and same result. Both are solid red. I left them both plugged in for an hour after turning solid red hoping for blue but no dice. I’ve never seen the Blue?

Maybe they got the manual wrong. I’ve got the early version, like Lock, with no USB charging so I can’t help much. Manuals are wrong all the time, though. It’s possible their prototypes used red and blue, but they may have simplified it for production. Let’s see if anyone else got a blue led.

BVH · 2019-01-25T05:24:13.000Z

OK, will sit tight and hope someone else will chime in. Another interesting occurrence. With the ODL20C, when fully charged from a tiny high Amp Samsung Galaxy8 120VAC charge cube, when the charge is done, the LED goes from slow flashing Red to fast flashing Red, - almost like what is described in the manual as the “low battery, charge it up” alert - which I have not yet seen as I have not run the battery down. With other charge cubes, this does not happen. It terminates with a solid red.

bmengineer · 2019-01-25T19:51:40.000Z

I reviewed the ODF30C and mine only had a single colored LED that changed from blinking to solid, no color change.

ad78 · 2019-02-14T15:18:59.000Z

i got the new and updated ODF30C. seems like they corrected some issues.

Scallywag · 2019-03-25T16:21:49.000Z

Has anyone modded this light, even an emitter swap? It seems everything is glued, so things don't look good.

bmengineer · 2019-03-25T17:51:42.000Z

Scallywag:

Has anyone modded this light, even an emitter swap? It seems everything is glued, so things don’t look good.

Aside from a warmer XHP70.2, what would you put into it?

Scallywag · 2019-03-25T19:14:06.000Z

Personally, I'd be looking for sense resistors too. But yes, probably a 4000k-5000k XHP70.2.

JasonWW · 2019-03-25T20:36:36.000Z

Scallywag:

Has anyone modded this light, even an emitter swap? It seems everything is glued, so things don’t look good.

It’s just the battery tube that’s glued.

Short Review of Lumintop ODF30 26650 Flashlights

Here is a world exclusive. I got the battery tube apart. Yay! I used a leather welding glove and a vice being careful not to distort the battery tube. Then I used a hot air gun to heat the light up. I eventually worked my way up to a rubber strap wrench and then just barely got it to break loose. They use some pretty wicked blue looking threadlocker that dries to a white finish. [image] [image] [image] [image] [image] [image] [image] [image] [image] [image] [image] [image] [image] I…

There are some low resistance, higher wattage sense looking resistors, but it’s a boost driver which I’m not very familiar with and frankly it’s output is good enough already.

Aviationtech · 2019-03-26T12:25:33.000Z

I installed a Cree XHP70.2 N4-7A 3000K emitter in mine and find myself using it more these days

Aviationtech · 2019-03-26T12:28:02.000Z

The switch honestly stinks tho, it’s not responsive at least half the time I use it. Very disappointed with Lumintop for using such a bad switch in this light. I wouldn’t mind replacing it, just never found one yet. (Also haven’t looked very hard)