Thanks!

I guess that means the quad mcpcb is not standard either…

Yes, although this one is also available on kd. But I do not know how the leds in mk34 are connected (in series or in parallel) and therefore I would advise against using this mcpcb, unless you are sure that the voltage will match.

I’ll try open mine up and test the voltage. I was hoping Hanks (international outdoors) new quad e21a boards would work but unfortunately not as his Emisar lights work with carclo 4up optics.

E21A? You should check this thread:
Manker Mk34 with 24 (yes 24!!) E21As
Not exactly what you want, but maybe it will help you.

Thanks. I’ve seen this.

Def interested in putting them under optics :slight_smile:

Does the Manker 34 have the option for the power button to stay “lit” like the Sofirn Q8’s?
So you can easily find it in the dark. Like a standby mode? Or is it only to temporarily check the battery strength?

Did anyone try to use Samsung 30q flat top batteries with solder blob …?

solder blob in my experience is a bad idea.
At the beginning it looks fine, but after a few days the soldier on top gets badly oxidised.

Thanks for the answer, do you think using a neodymium magnet (10mmx1mm) is a better idea …?

Absolutely not! I strongly recommend against using battery magnets with this kind of light.

  • When you screw on the head after putting on the batteries, the top of the batteries drag laterally against the contact plate on the head. If using battery magnets, this lateral movement acts directly on the magnets and could scrape them off the top of the cells. This creates a risk of a dead short and could cause your flashlight to explode.

To convert a flat top to a button top I use the following technique:

  • Cut a small disk of copper sheet using some metal-cutting scissors and a file.
  • Place cell face-up in a small table vise.
  • Apply solder paste to top of cell.
  • Place the copper disk on top of the paste.
  • In left hand, hold a toothpick and use it to press down on the disk. In right hand hold soldering iron and press to top of disk. Use a hot soldering iron, preferably of around 40w. A weak soldering iron has a higher risk of damaging the cell.
  • While soldering, watch the solder paste at the edge of the copper disk. The moment it melts and turns silver remove the iron, but keep the toothpick in place for at least 10 more seconds to prevent the disk from shifting until the solder solidifies.
  • Give the top of the copper disk a quick swipe with a handfile to remove any sharp edges, if needed.

Thank you so much for sharing your experience … I will do that now.