[Review] : Olight M1T Raider

chadvone · 2018-05-31T22:35:40.000Z

yes, I see them now. Thank you

I like forward clicky lights and 2 speed lights. Don’t think it will replace my Partners but its a neat looking light.

Chatika_vas_Paus · 2018-06-01T06:58:38.000Z

~~X3~~:

Chatika vas Paus:

chadvone:

I don’t see pics

I also don’t see the pics…

Sorry guys, I screwed up the GPics links…
Is it better now ?

It’s fine now.
Interesting design. I like it.

X31 · 2018-06-01T07:11:05.000Z

Just got the price, 45€ on Amazon.
A bit more expensive that I’d like but the production cost can’t be less than an S1 mini for example…

mortuus · 2018-06-01T08:44:40.000Z

Interesting light, shame it doesnt take 18350. Is there no moonlight mode either?

X31 · 2018-06-01T08:46:24.000Z

mortuus:

Interesting light, shame it doesnt take 18350. Is there no moonlight mode either?

Nope, only 2 modes : 5 and 500-300 lumens

mortuus · 2018-06-01T09:11:23.000Z

okay, another question does the light suddenly die without warning when the battery gets low? both my s1 baton and smini does that i kinda hate that puff and it goes dead…

X31 · 2018-06-01T09:24:23.000Z

mortuus:

okay, another question does the light suddenly die without warning when the battery gets low? both my s1 baton and smini does that i kinda hate that puff and it goes dead…

I didn’t try yet.
I’ll put a 16340 and try it tonight on high mode

derfyled · 2018-06-01T11:08:57.000Z

Surefire EB1 for poor man. But I tend to say for wise man. Almost same light, about 150$ less…

naddysaad · 2018-06-01T12:36:56.000Z

When is this available in the US?

X31 · 2018-06-02T12:31:56.000Z

~~X3~~:

mortuus:

okay, another question does the light suddenly die without warning when the battery gets low? both my s1 baton and smini does that i kinda hate that puff and it goes dead…

I didn’t try yet.
I’ll put a 16340 and try it tonight on high mode

Okay, so I tried it twice.
First time,with an Olight 16340 protected. The protection kicked in after an hour on high and the light shut off obviously.
The second time I used a CR123A primary cell, on high mode. After about 2 hours, the light went down on low mode. I then shut it OFF but couldn’t light it ON again.

I’ll try with an unprotected 16340 but I think it will discharge it quite low

mortuus · 2018-06-02T12:49:28.000Z

naddysaad:

When is this available in the US?

good question, can u answer this x3 about worldwide too ?

X31 · 2018-06-02T12:54:43.000Z

mortuus:

naddysaad:

When is this available in the US?

good question, can u answer this x3 about worldwide too ?

I didn’t had information about this, I’ll ask my contact to know.
It’ll be available on Amazon.fr on June the 10th though.

X31 · 2018-06-02T13:10:51.000Z

The CR123A is 2,43V after the light shuts off.
It means that a 16340 will surely finish at a comparable voltage.

mortuus · 2018-06-02T13:31:11.000Z

okok thanks for info X3.

lumenzilla · 2018-06-02T19:14:25.000Z

Tactical but starts from low?
I don’t get it.

What about the switch, e switch or analog forward/reverse click?

X31 · 2018-06-03T07:37:48.000Z

lumenzilla:

Tactical but starts from low?
I don’t get it.

What about the switch, e switch or analog forward/reverse click?

Standard clicky forward switch.
I’m sure it’s not meant to be “tactical”, but more like a backup in fact

Kindle · 2018-06-03T11:06:07.000Z

If it had momentary high I’d be all over it (and 18350 compatibility would be a no question buy).

As is , it’s a maybe as a gift light.

mortuus · 2018-06-03T11:14:49.000Z

Kindle:

If it had momentary high I’d be all over it (and 18350 compatibility would be a no question buy).

As is , it’s a maybe as a gift light.

I agree - its time to adapt to new type of batteries and not just stick to the old cr123/16340… i dont get them.

bmengineer · 2018-06-03T13:18:14.000Z

I’m fine with it in their tiny lights, but this thing doesn’t make sense.

MascaratumB · 2019-06-18T16:58:48.000Z

Some time ago, my M1T Raider started having issues with the switch/tailcap. Pressing it momentarily or full click was a pain, as the rubber cap got stuck or was too slow to make another quick press/click.

So I e-mailed Olight about this situation and informed them about it. I got fast replies, and they were very kind to send me another tailcap, that arrived today.
I paid for the DHL transportation more than I would pay for a new light, but…that’s fine I now have a working light again

BUT…as I had the “old” damaged tailcap, I decided that if it was damaged I would salvage it to show how the tailcap is composed, all in the name of “flashlight science” So, here are some photos of its composition:

It can be decomposed in 3 main parts. I put the lower part (RIGHT) out with the help of a knife; made some pressure and it eventually got released (it is press fit and has some flaps that will fit into a groove in the metal structure).

Then I picked a flame lighter and applied some heat on the top part of the tailcap. I didn’t know if it was glued or not but I took my chance (then I realized there is some glue on it).
After that, I picked two pliers and rotated the both parts (MIDDLE and LEFT) in opposite directions. It started to unscrew. I used a tissue not to damage the threads too much with the pressure.

After that, I started taking the pieces that you find in the photo of the right.
TOP: Metal structure + white o-ring + rubber/plastic tailcap with a pin inside + spring + spacer
MIDDLE: Metal structure + 2 o-rings (1 interior, 1 outside) + thin brass spacer + switch on PCB and spring
LOWER: Metal brass cap + plastic holder

Later I found out that what was causing the issue in the pressing was the lack of lubricant in the white o-ring inside the tailcap. So I applied some, and now the “old” switch is working fine now I’ll keep it just in case, or maybe I will use it in another flashlight Lets see!

All and all, I have to thank Olight for the fast reply and customer support service!