“REVIEW”: RovyVon E300S – 2000 lumens – (Rect)Angle Light – 3*XPG3 [PIC HEAVY] - ***MODED WITH XP-L LED ***

MascaratumB · 2019-01-03T22:19:54.000Z

CRX:

Thanks :+1:

Thanks CRX!
I guess this reminds your SL build(s) a lot! With all the differences it has of course :face_with_monocle:

CRX · 2019-01-03T22:38:05.000Z

Yeah, or the mini monolith I made a while ago

MascaratumB · 2019-01-03T22:44:02.000Z

CRX:

Yeah, or the mini monolith I made a while ago

Hum, I guess I missed that one
Nice light! How “mini” is it?

CRX · 2019-01-03T22:49:18.000Z

60mm x 25mm x 12mm

MascaratumB · 2019-01-03T22:53:47.000Z

CRX:

60mm x 25mm x 12mm

Sweet! I had to measure this E300s to get a notion of how small it is!! :person_facepalming:

BTW, look where I ended up just by searching “mini monolith” :
The BLF Modding Links Thread. Looking for a mod that’s been done at BLF? Try here for a link. , by Old-Lumens

CRX · 2019-01-03T22:59:11.000Z

MascaratumB · 2019-01-05T00:40:58.000Z

Just notice the E300s fits the On The Road pouch
~~I believe it also fits Convoy holsters (the ones for the 18350 versions), but can’t confirm at the moment!~~
Anyway, it is a good and not very bulky way to protect if from scratches or other hits

EDIT (later this day ) :
Convoy holsters work perfectly with this light And still have more room to a second light, in the side!!

MascaratumB · 2019-01-20T23:34:27.000Z

As I mentioned on my review, this Rovyvon E300s flashlight was a good candidate for an LED change, due to the tint shift on this light produced by the XP-G3 Leds.

Last friday I received some XP-L Leds ordered from kiriba-ru, and performed that modification.

NOTE: this is not a easy mod, specially for people that have not so good skills - as myself - on soldering and opening/closing flashlights. The E300s is somehow complex to open and close without major damages and for some seconds I thought I would lose the most expensive light I have. So, careful if you decide to got for a mod!

There is a rubber “cover” all around the top of the flashlight, to protect from water infiltration. It was hard to get this out and almost worse to get it back to place again!

To access the “pill” and leds, unscrew the top screws on the outside, remove the cover, and unscrew the 3 screws holding the “board”.
To remove the “pill, we have to unscrew the bezel from teh outside. Due to the o-rings and the friction caused by them and the optics, it is very likely that the optics and leds will turn inside. It led my black wire to de-solder so I have to put new wires (22AWG). Thick wires will difficult our life when putting things back together to assemble the light again.
I also broke the black wire coming from the battery while trying to put it together, but it was an easy fix!

The only thing I couldn’t put back together was a sealing ring that was placed between the “pill” and the host (below the bezel). So I improvised and put between the bezel and the host, from the outside. It will work

About the optic, as you know the XP-L HD leds are taller than XP-G3 and XP-G2, so I had to modify the optic according to this suggestion . It was not difficult but it was hard to make it fit evenly (it can be noticed in the photo). Still, it doesn’t produce artifacts on the beam!

Las but not least, the beam. Before (XP-G3 CW ) >>>>> After (XP-L V6 3D). During the weekend I will try to take some outdoor beamshots to see the range it will throw!

I can’t portray how “white” it is now, due to the effects produced by the cellphone and the storage loss of quality! Still, it doesn’t have any shift and despite the issues I had modding the optics, it has no artifacts! It is a wider beam now, much floodier than it was, but the XP-L Leds would produce that any way, more than the XP-G3!
I am happy now with this new light colour

LumenMax · 2019-01-31T20:03:17.000Z

Well done. Would have been even better if you had documented the modding process :-)

MascaratumB · 2019-02-01T17:36:52.000Z

LumenMax:

Well done. Would have been even better if you had documented the modding process

Thanks mate
Well, you mean documenting as in filming or taking photos?
Believe me, I was much more worried about not ruining the flashlight than filming it!
You can take a read at zeroair review (RovyVon E300S Angel Eyes Flashlight Review – ZeroAir Reviews) it helped me to get into the light

Still the process was like:
1 - taking the screws out on the head)

2 - take the back cover (complicated but it didn’t damage much the sealing rubber that covers that part)

3 - trying to unscrew the bezel out, while holding the brass pill, without damaging the wires (it didn’t happen, as one got cut…)

4 - after the bezel was unscrewed:
a) take the pill out
b) unsolder the remaining wire from the emitter plate
c) unsolder both wires from the “driver”
d) replace the original LEDs for the new ones (with “helping hands”, solder iron, some soldering flux and a swab with alcohol to clean the mess )

5 - after the new LEDs were in place:
a) solder the wires emitter plate (I rather not call it MCPCB as it is not…)
b) get the new - thicker - wires through the small pill holes, without damaging them
c) put some thermal paste between the plate and the pill
d) cut some Glow-In-The-Dark tape to put inside the pill
e) set the plate in place and…put the optics above the LEDS

6 - After I realized the optic has small diameter holes…I had to pick the dremmel with a round file head and slightly open the optics holes to make the LEDs fit more or less fine. Was not very difficult, but took some time to make them look “similar” (I only noticed that when I switched the light ON)

7 - With the optics and the emitters in place:
a) solder the wires to the “driver”
b) try to screw the bezel in without twisting and breaking the wires (as the pill rotates at the same time! This was one of the hardest parts, as the whole driver+pill had to be lifted up several times due to the friction in the rotation process! This was when a wire from the battery broke/unsoldered…)
c) put the back cover in place again, without severing the sealing rubber
d) put the head screws back in place!

Ahh, and during the process, I was always checking if when pressed the light would get ON I didn’t want to go through the dismantling process again

Sorry for not having documented it…it took me HOURS from begining to the end, with some drawbacks and much learning

Hope this written explanation may work as a documentary, somehow :+1:
Thanks for reading

MascaratumB · 2019-02-17T23:25:27.000Z

After modding this light with the XP-L leds I didn’t put some photos to show how it performed. So here are some photos of it!
It became more floody, but the colour is much more pleasant even outside!

Comparison:
BEFORE (XP-G3) >>>>>> AFTER (XP-L HD)

And some more photos

Overall I’m happy with it as it is

xevious · 2019-02-21T21:52:11.000Z

Very nice work, MascaratumB!

After some recent lights purchases, I don’t need another EDC… but the E300S has been tugging at me. I like this form factor, especially the concept of being able to clip this to a shirt pocket and have forward facing light. I’m encouraged now that it comes with a Nichia 219C option. I like this emitter on the A8.

After the XM-L emitter swap, your beam tint became noticeably warmer. I think it’s worth the trade-off on reduced output, given the form factor of the light. Btw, I’m guessing you don’t see PWM, as I’d asked someone else about that—they could detect it on the A8 but not on the E300S.

Gebe · 2019-02-21T22:12:59.000Z

Ya, nice work. Even though I’m a CW fan and going by your photos, your mod made for a nicer beam.

MascaratumB · 2019-02-21T22:37:44.000Z

xevious:

Very nice work, MascaratumB! :+1:

After some recent lights purchases, I don’t need another EDC… but the E300S has been tugging at me. I like this form factor, especially the concept of being able to clip this to a shirt pocket and have forward facing light. I’m encouraged now that it comes with a Nichia 219C option. I like this emitter on the A8.

After the XM-L emitter swap, your beam tint became noticeably warmer. I think it’s worth the trade-off on reduced output, given the form factor of the light. Btw, I’m guessing you don’t see PWM, as I’d asked someone else about that—they could detect it on the A8 but not on the E300S.

Thanks xevious
This is a very nice light! I guess that the unusual shape of it has a different appeal
The UI is also quite good (for my taste and despite some things I would change) and it is very well built!

I also think the beam improved (specially the tint and the absence of shift) despite it lost some throw capability! I don’t mind that
BTW, it was XP-L , not XML Those would not fit at all under that optic

Nop, no PWM. Here’s a gif from post #1 juts above the LEDs:

So it doesn’t do what the A8s do ! Fortunately

Gebe:

Ya, nice work. Even though I’m a CW fan and going by your photos, your mod made for a nicer beam.

Thanks Gebe! Hum, I guess that if it was a different type of CW emitter, like XPL-HI or some XP-G2, I wouldn’t change it. But XP-G3 produces that yellowish/greenish shift that annoys! So I guess this is a better one too :partying_face:

xevious · 2019-05-22T14:54:55.000Z

MascaratumB:

Thanks xevious
This is a very nice light! I guess that the unusual shape of it has a different appeal
The UI is also quite good (for my taste and despite some things I would change) and it is very well built!

I also think the beam improved (specially the tint and the absence of shift) despite it lost some throw capability! I don’t mind that
BTW, it was XP-L , not XML Those would not fit at all under that optic

Nop, no PWM. Here’s a gif from post #1 juts above the LEDs:

So it doesn’t do what the A8s do ! Fortunately

Gebe:

Ya, nice work. Even though I’m a CW fan and going by your photos, your mod made for a nicer beam.

Thanks Gebe! Hum, I guess that if it was a different type of CW emitter, like XPL-HI or some XP-G2, I wouldn’t change it. But XP-G3 produces that yellowish/greenish shift that annoys! So I guess this is a better one too :partying_face:

Sorry for my very late reply, MascaratumB . Somehow I didn’t catch the reply in my subscription list. I appreciate your response. I had ended up getting an Aurora A8, which I enjoy. However, the noticeable PWM at low levels has tended to annoy me. The effect isn’t the worst I’ve seen, but none of the other lights I own exhibit this effect… which makes it stand out more. I’m glad to hear the E300S doesn’t have visible PWM.

I’m wondering about the optic. Is it a 20mm size? There are a number of variations in optics available today and it’s interesting to consider an optic swap. The difficulty you faced in disassembly is a bit unsettling, though. Especially where that top seal is concerned. It does sound like it’s necessary to do it, though, to keep the pill from moving when rotating the outer bezel for access to the optic.

MascaratumB · 2019-05-22T15:27:46.000Z

xevious:

Sorry for my very late reply, MascaratumB . Somehow I didn’t catch the reply in my subscription list. I appreciate your response.

No problem at all, I’ve been absent as well, in someway!

xevious:

I had ended up getting an Aurora A8, which I enjoy. However, the noticeable PWM at low levels has tended to annoy me. The effect isn’t the worst I’ve seen, but none of the other lights I own exhibit this effect… which makes it stand out more. I’m glad to hear the E300S doesn’t have visible PWM.

I must be very non sensitive to the PWM of this light, as I don’t see it at all! Only through a lens/camera. I do know, though, that it must be annoying seeing all those flickers :zipper_mouth_face:
I guess RovyVon was working in non PWM (or less visible) versions, but I didn’t follow those developments so far . Maybe you can reach them and check for that in case you want the A8! I carry it everyday in the neck and use it sometimes, for short bursts or night mood.

xevious:

I’m wondering about the optic. Is it a 20mm size?

Hum…good question, I can’t remember that exactly, but I guess it is larger than the regular triple Carclo optics. But I can’t be sure… Maybe tonight I can check the outer diameter approximately.

xevious:

There are a number of variations in optics available today and it’s interesting to consider an optic swap. The difficulty you faced in disassembly is a bit unsettling, though. Especially where that top seal is concerned. It does sound like it’s necessary to do it, though, to keep the pill from moving when rotating the outer bezel for access to the optic.

Yup, dismantling it and putting it back together was very stressful, specially as I am not very skilled at soldering and putting things back together as they were supposed to be (specially after putting new, thicker wires) :person_facepalming: )

The bezel as I have it now is not as good as it was supposed. I cannot remember the process exactly, but I guess to open it, it will have to rotate. That’s why the LED wires were broken.
It was a complicated “surgery” so I erased it a bit from my memory, I’m sorry

In the end, it worthed it, though! I am not using it as much as I could, but I will soon

xevious · 2019-06-19T00:35:53.000Z

MascaratumB:

xevious:

Sorry for my very late reply, MascaratumB . Somehow I didn’t catch the reply in my subscription list. I appreciate your response.

No problem at all, I’ve been absent as well, in someway!

Well, you’re pretty responsive for someone who has been absent! Thanks.

MascaratumB:

I must be very non sensitive to the PWM of this light, as I don’t see it at all! Only through a lens/camera. I do know, though, that it must be annoying seeing all those flickers :zipper_mouth_face:
I guess RovyVon was working in non PWM (or less visible) versions, but I didn’t follow those developments so far . Maybe you can reach them and check for that in case you want the A8! I carry it everyday in the neck and use it sometimes, for short bursts or night mood.

I have been in touch with Ken—his operation is very small, so when you send a message to Customer Service, he answers. I’d asked him about the E300S optic, but he declined to say anything as he said opening it voids the warranty. I can understand, based on the complication you faced! Earlier when I reviewed the A8, he said they were working on a better PWM version of the Aurora, to be available in later 2019. While it does bug me a little, it’s not a deal breaker. I still enjoy the A8. The other evening I was in a rush while walking in Manhattan (NY) and there was a fair amount of sidewalk traffic. So I put my A8 into blue/red flashing mode as I lightly jogged down the pavement. And it worked — people cleared out of my way. It’s also a great strobe for getting attention when you need it. Plus, the red only strobe is useful as a supplement when cycling at night. Ken had also said he may be upgrading the battery… from 130 mAh to 230 mAh. That would be attractive. I’m hoping I can get one to review.

MascaratumB:

xevious:

I’m wondering about the optic. Is it a 20mm size?

Hum…good question, I can’t remember that exactly, but I guess it is larger than the regular triple Carclo optics. But I can’t be sure… Maybe tonight I can check the outer diameter approximately.

Thanks! What inspired me to ask is the wide range of Carclo triple optics available for reasonable prices. Based on the size of the light relative to the $2 USD bill, you’d think it would be similar in size to the FW3A, which is 23mm. I saw someone drill out the pegs to install trits… so one could do that with the E300S. But I’d want to have spares in case of accidents during the modification.

MascaratumB:

Yup, dismantling it and putting it back together was very stressful, specially as I am not very skilled at soldering and putting things back together as they were supposed to be (specially after putting new, thicker wires) :person_facepalming: )

The bezel as I have it now is not as good as it was supposed. I cannot remember the process exactly, but I guess to open it, it will have to rotate. That’s why the LED wires were broken. It was a complicated “surgery” so I erased it a bit from my memory, I’m sorry

At least more than one person did this, so it’s a little more encouraging to try. Now that you went through it once, there are probably little nuances you’d be mindful of and the process would go easier. ZeroAir disassembled his as well. And reassembled it. I’m OK with soldering. I just don’t have a high quality soldering station… I do like the idea of putting in thicker wires, though.

MascaratumB · 2019-05-22T22:55:00.000Z

xevious:

Well, you’re pretty responsive for someone who has been absent! Thanks.

Well, I’ve been reading threads, sometimes I just don’t have the time to answer But we all know how it is, right?

xevious:

I have been in touch with Ken—his operation is very small, so when you send a message to Customer Service, he answers. I’d asked him about the E300S optic, but he declined to say anything as he said opening it voids the warranty. I can understand, based on the complication you faced!

Yup, he is responsive and always kind! And…I knew I’d void my warranty by doing this, still I risked as I wanted better tint than the XP-G3 could give (as the Nichias weren’t on sale back then… :person_facepalming: )

xevious:

Earlier when I reviewed the A8, he said they were working on a better PWM version of the Aurora, to be available in later 2019. While it does bug me a little, it’s not a deal breaker. I still enjoy the A8. The other evening I was in a rush while walking in Manhattan (NY) and there was a fair amount of sidewalk traffic. So I put my A8 into blue/red flashing mode as I lightly jogged down the pavement. And it worked — people cleared out of my way. It’s also a great strobe for getting attention when you need it. Plus, the red only strobe is useful as a supplement when cycling at night. Ken had also said he may be upgrading the battery… from 130 mAh to 230 mAh. That would be attractive. I’m hoping I can get one to review.

Ahah, and no one arrested you for using the blue/red That’s a great tip, I guess I wouldn’t remember using it in those cases, only in emergeny, if needed.
I normally use only the regular modes and the white led on the side occasionally. Still, it is very useful and handy when needed

And those would be excellent news, to increase the battery capacity I hope they cam do it without increasing the flashlight diameter that much. Longer, yes, larger, no! My point!

xevious:

Thanks! What inspired me to ask is the wide range of Carclo triple optics available for reasonable prices. Based on the size of the light relative to the $2 USD bill, I’m thinking it may be 20mm… given that the one in the FW3A is 20mm. I saw someone drill out the pegs to install trits… so one could do that with the E300S. But I’d want to have spares in case of accidents during the modification.

Well, I’ve eye-measured and the E300s doesn’t use Carclo optics. Its optic is much larger than a Carclo 10511 (taken from the FW3A), as you can see in the photos.

The FW3A (left) and the E300s (right) are at the same height so you can see that the E300s is larger. Also, in the middle photo, you can see that the Carclo optic’s edge has a great margin to meet the edges if the E300s optic, even if it is under the bezel.

xevious:

At least more than one person did this, so it’s a little more encouraging to try. Now that you went through it once, there are probably little nuances you’d be mindful of and the process would go easier. ZeroAir disassembled his as well. And reassembled it. I’m OK with soldering. I just don’t have a high quality soldering station… I do like the idea of putting in thicker wires, though.

My mod was inspired by his and I actually used his tips to open, otherwise I would mess it even more seriously. Zeroair did a great review and provided very useful info on this light, which I appreciate and acknowledged in the review / mod

The thicker wires will only make it difficult for turning the pill and putting things back together. Maybe some thicker wires than the ones it has originally, but not so thick as the ones I used (20AWG, I guess) is better. So, 22 AWG may be enough, depending on the LEDs you’ll use.
Also, careful if you wanna use XPL-HD leds. I would not advise that due to the mode of the optic. XPl-HI would be ok, though

xevious · 2019-05-23T01:18:06.000Z

MascaratumB:

Ahah, and no one arrested you for using the blue/red That’s a great tip, I guess I wouldn’t remember using it in those cases, only in emergeny, if needed. I normally use only the regular modes and the white led on the side occasionally. Still, it is very useful and handy when needed

Only a problem if used in a moving vehicle. And I suppose a bicycle too, given how the police use mountain bikes in some cities where there’s a lot of vehicle congestion.

MascaratumB:

And those would be excellent news, to increase the battery capacity I hope they cam do it without increasing the flashlight diameter that much. Longer, yes, larger, no! My point!

Ken had said he expects no increase in diameter. There does seem to be enough room inside, particularly if they find a way to reduce the circuit board a little further. I agree, a little length would be preferable to width. It would also be good if they came up with 2 clips, the standard and then another for brim use. The one currently included ends up bending too much if you brim mount it, and then it won’t clip snugly to a pocket.

MascaratumB:

Well, I’ve eye-measured and the E300s doesn’t use Carclo optics. Its optic is much larger than a Carclo 10511 (taken from the FW3A), as you can see in the photos.

Ah, bummer. Well, thanks a lot for checking! My hope is that the optic would be easily obtainable for not too crazy a price. I wonder if there’s enough depth to run GITD tape along the inside of the LED chamber.

MascaratumB:

My mod was inspired by his and I actually used his tips to open, otherwise I would mess it even more seriously. Zeroair did a great review and provided very useful info on this light, which I appreciate and acknowledged in the review / mod

The thicker wires will only make it difficult for turning the pill and putting things back together. Maybe some thicker wires than the ones it has originally, but not so thick as the ones I used (20AWG, I guess) is better. So, 22 AWG may be enough, depending on the LEDs you’ll use.
Also, careful if you wanna use XPL-HD leds. I would not advise that due to the mode of the optic. XPl-HI would be ok, though

Ah, didn’t know ZeroAir inspired you. Yes, he has some pretty nicely detailed reviews and the one on the E300S with disassembly was great. I figured a thicker wire is simply better for voltage pass-through. I wouldn’t bother to emitter swap, as the 219C option should be sufficient.

NorthernHarrier · 2019-06-08T01:37:01.000Z

Very helpful review, thanks for posting it. I like this light - will be interested in the Nichia version, for the right price.