how strong is the magnetic tail cap?
[Review] Skilhunt M150 LH351D ( 1 x 14500, Rechargeable ) - Found a new EDC :)
Any parasitic drain on the batteries? I noticed that with mine
Thanks for the review The UI is surely better than in the previous version! I also wonder about the parasitic drain, as mine (old version) has some when the led indicator is ON.
Also, how did you mod the M200 and which 18350 tube did you use, if I may ask?
I noticed it is the old version of the M200, is the tube unglued? The new on is glued and even with heat I wasn’t able to move it :zipper_mouth_face:
Oooooh, so no more up’n’down like the original M150?
Damn you, now I probably gotta go get one.
I quite like my M150 as well. I opened mine up and sliced the dome on the LH351D, and now it’s even better. Perfect beam, more throw, much better tint, slightly warmer. Honestly the main think I dislike on it is just the clip. It’s just too tight to fit jeans easily and not deep carry enough for my preference.
I HIGHLY recommend slicing the dome. It makes it like a mini version of my SC64w HI “CRI”.
sorry what does it mean slicing the dome? and is that the same as “dedome”?
It means literally “slicing” the dome, using a razor. It’s just a different/easier way of going about getting the benefits of dedoming, since there isn’t really a good way to safely dedome the LH351D.
ok then i guess my question is, what is de-doming? what does it do, and what are the benefits?
There are threads that have more detail and measurements than I can give, of course… But the basics is. Dedoming means removing the silicone dome of the led, by different methods, primarily to increase intensity (and therefore throw).
For the LH351D, the best method is to use a razor to carefully slice the doom off above the phosphor, which will lower the duv, increase throw, decrease output a bit, and lower the color temperature. It will also smooth out the beam to remove the yellowish/greenish corona.
Not all LEDs take well to dedoming/slicing, but the LH351D seems to pretty consistently improve in multiple ways (besides output).
wow…interesting…i would need to youtube some instruction videos
Here is the best post about it. This guy did a bunch of testing/slicing and it has lots of good info.
LH351D slicing measurements : output, tint, tint shift, beam profile, intensity.
The tail's magnet is very strong
Here's a pic of the M150 supporting itself, a shorty M200 and a Victorinox Cadet Alox.
oh damn, ya ok thats pretty strong, thanks!
Unfortunately my multi-meter has stopped measuring in the < 2000 μA range - Either it's completely bonked or I need to get a new 9v battery.
I will try to get some measurements of the standby drain as soon as my multimeter is back online!
I've being carrying the M150 in a daily basis and haven't noticed any drain, but of course I'm speaking out of thin air, as I don't have any actual numbers to back my statements.
What tube did you use to make that shorty M200?
I'm probably having one of the older versions of the M200 as there isn't any glue between the head and the body.
I used a shorty tube out of an Astrolux S43.
It's worth noting that the head-side of the tube doesn't screw all the way in ( the S43's threads are longer than the M200 ), but it's not visible and doesn't affect the flashlights at all
Always happy for making Lightbringer consider buying yet another flashlight - if like he hadn't already had too many!
After some heating, some “pliering”, some bruising, I managed to remove the tube from my M200, inspired by yours
It was glued with red loctite
I bruised the head and the tube a little bit but I made some aesthetical modifications that that the scars could look better
One thing I noticed is that the battery doesn’t charge with this tube (from an Astrolux light as well).
Does yours charge? I was happy and then got a bummer for this! But…I have a new light
BTW, I wonder if a tube from the shorty headlamps can be used in this head
Thanks again for the inspiration
(Skilhunt, do something like this, shorter if possible, with the same UI!!!)
@MascaratumB nicely done
Mine seems to still charge OK using the S43 tube.
Also, it might be worth to invest in pair of oil filter wrenches.
A few years back I grabbed a pair of them from eBay and they've helped immensely in persuading some flashlights to untighten.
Thanks bilakos 10
I guess my tube and yours are different in the edges, so that is what makes mine not being able to charge, while yours does.
I was trying to find some place to buy a short tube of an S43 but they don’t seem to be available separately. I’ll have to live with this or maybe I’ll find a solution later on
In any case, thanks for the inspiration, the information , and enjoy your light
Just an update!
Inverted the tube and managed to get it ti charge the 18350
I’m not sure if I tried it before, but if I did, it didn’t work as it works not
I’m happy with this
Thanks again for the tips and inspiration