Thanks for the review The UI is surely better than in the previous version! I also wonder about the parasitic drain, as mine (old version) has some when the led indicator is ON.
Also, how did you mod the M200 and which 18350 tube did you use, if I may ask?
I noticed it is the old version of the M200, is the tube unglued? The new on is glued and even with heat I wasnāt able to move it :zipper_mouth_face:
I quite like my M150 as well. I opened mine up and sliced the dome on the LH351D, and now itās even better. Perfect beam, more throw, much better tint, slightly warmer. Honestly the main think I dislike on it is just the clip. Itās just too tight to fit jeans easily and not deep carry enough for my preference.
I HIGHLY recommend slicing the dome. It makes it like a mini version of my SC64w HI āCRIā.
It means literally āslicingā the dome, using a razor. Itās just a different/easier way of going about getting the benefits of dedoming, since there isnāt really a good way to safely dedome the LH351D.
There are threads that have more detail and measurements than I can give, of course⦠But the basics is. Dedoming means removing the silicone dome of the led, by different methods, primarily to increase intensity (and therefore throw).
For the LH351D, the best method is to use a razor to carefully slice the doom off above the phosphor, which will lower the duv, increase throw, decrease output a bit, and lower the color temperature. It will also smooth out the beam to remove the yellowish/greenish corona.
Not all LEDs take well to dedoming/slicing, but the LH351D seems to pretty consistently improve in multiple ways (besides output).
Unfortunately my multi-meter has stopped measuring in the < 2000 μA range - Either it's completely bonked or I need to get a new 9v battery.
I will try to get some measurements of the standby drain as soon as my multimeter is back online!
I've being carrying the M150 in a daily basis and haven't noticed any drain, but of course I'm speaking out of thin air, as I don't have any actual numbers to back my statements.
I'm probably having one of the older versions of the M200 as there isn't any glue between the head and the body.
I used a shorty tube out of an Astrolux S43.
It's worth noting that the head-side of the tube doesn't screw all the way in ( the S43's threads are longer than the M200 ), but it's not visible and doesn't affect the flashlights at all
Always happy for making Lightbringer consider buying yet another flashlight - if like he hadn't already had too many!
After some heating, some āplieringā, some bruising, I managed to remove the tube from my M200, inspired by yours
It was glued with red loctite
I bruised the head and the tube a little bit but I made some aesthetical modifications that that the scars could look better
One thing I noticed is that the battery doesnāt charge with this tube (from an Astrolux light as well). Does yours charge? I was happy and then got a bummer for this! Butā¦I have a new light
BTW, I wonder if a tube from the shorty headlamps can be used in this head
Thanks again for the inspiration
(Skilhunt, do something like this, shorter if possible, with the same UI!!!)
@MascaratumB nicely done
Mine seems to still charge OK using the S43 tube.
Also, it might be worth to invest in pair of oil filter wrenches.
A few years back I grabbed a pair of them from eBay and they've helped immensely in persuading some flashlights to untighten.
Thanks bilakos 10
I guess my tube and yours are different in the edges, so that is what makes mine not being able to charge, while yours does.
I was trying to find some place to buy a short tube of an S43 but they donāt seem to be available separately. Iāll have to live with this or maybe Iāll find a solution later on
In any case, thanks for the inspiration, the information , and enjoy your light
Just an update!
Inverted the tube and managed to get it ti charge the 18350
Iām not sure if I tried it before, but if I did, it didnāt work as it works not
Iām happy with this