Above 2m, mine goes even past best focus (fringe turns from purple to blue). At longer distances it's past focus even more and I prefer that slightly rounded and soft-edged beam shape. To the eye, brightness loss is negligible.
That may be because I tightened the pill down, perhaps 1/4 turn or less.
I had a detent too, but it smoothened out quickly.
That same thing happens to other 38mm lens I've got, it focuses perfectly at about 3 meters, but looks a bit blurry closer than that, I assume it is a focal lenght thing where its projection needs a minimum distance to be clear.
I've got some lenses that do show a really clear image (Ultraok Big Head), and others with a bit blurry one at any distance (yezl T9), and the difference in throw is really important, something like a 30-40% difference.
That is why I ordered this light, to see how good is its lens, as the one from ultraok, is no longer available.
I recieved mine today, like it so far but id happy pay a few more quid for better quality, it just feels cheap, the threads are poor. Anyway some pics:
Low (TrustFire Flame at open circuit voltage of 4.11v Calibrated Meter)
High
Beam at ~1m
At ~3m
At ~10m
Next to UltraOK Q5 (reflector), again approx 10m
So the hotspot seems pretty well focused to me but this is my first Aspheric, current draw also seems well suited but would love to try it with R2 driven even harder :)
It looks apparently well focused at 3m, but it is not that easy to show it as it is on a picture, or at least it isn't for me.
I agree, the pictures actually make it appear less well focused than it is by eye
I received mine yesterday, I boought a pair of them as presents for christmas.
One of them has a really nice lens, very clear spot, and throws quite far, but the other is very blurry not due to the focal lenght, it is just a bad lens.
So, 50% good for me haha.
The construction y my opinion is not very good, I know the yezl T9 is more expensive, but it is quite better built and has an XM-L instead, which in my opinion with this lens diameter, is in general terms more usefull with a nice useful throw, and a really good flood.
just ordered from DX, 14.60
they claim xre-q5 wc, 1200ma and glass lens
would be nice, but we'll see...
Gorann same as mine, it also has the zoom in and zoom out writings.
Build quality is so so, but the lens is nice for throw, on flood, I do not like much the XR-E, it shows a not that nice spot, with XM-L it is an homogeneous spot much nicer in my opinion.
The emitter on those pictures is XR-E: http://flashlight-wiki.com/Cree#XR-E.
I have no idea if it's genuine Cree, however it's not XP-E: http://flashlight-wiki.com/Cree#XP-E.
Though the Q5 bin is present on both XR and XP. I'm still not getting the difference between the two.
What exactly does this mean: "XP-E shrunk the XR-E by 80%"?
Less surface and same brightness or less surface and less brightness? Brighness per Amp or mm2?
Viktor
The main difference is that as I recall the XR-E can actually be driven harder and just going by the spec sheet data the difference is in the emitted beam angle. The XR-E is 90 degrees and the XP=E is 110 or something like that (just going from memory).
Therefore the XP-E works better in a reflector than a XR-E since more of it’s rays are hitting the reflector and therefore becoming collimated.
I can’t recall the die size info so someone else can address that.
I got one of these today and I noticed that it has an EZ1000 die XR-E, not the EZ900 that I've become accustomed to getting in budget lights over the past year. Not a big deal, but it would have a higher lux with the EZ900.
It’s really hard to say because of the variation in drivers used in this light. If you have a DMM measure the draw and guess from there. Strong draw like some go closer to the 55k…crappy draw like mine go with the 33k. In the middle? Go with 42k?
I got 40k from a half charged Trustfire flame and 54k from an AW IMR. (measured at 10m and after being on 10 seconds)
mine has been modified to direct drive, so I didn't try out, but as I measured and where I found "parasitic voltage", you have to solder a resistor there:
The resitance value should be around 10-100kohm, yes, a little wide range. Try out some resistances, and choose which works well.
It depends on the driver. If a driver isn’t pushing the emitter very hard then it will be brighter when driven DD.
If the driver is pushing the emitter hard then there will be no difference. Some drivers are designed more for increased runtime or to keep the light from over heating.
@Jeansy: So, which one is better in throw? UltraOK or Smallsun?
My most recent readings:
Small Sun.... 65kcd (59kcd after 1min)
UltraOk....... 42kcd
HS-802....... 50kcd
Not only does my Small Sun throw the farthest, it also renders the sharpest target image, due to no corona & spill at all. Overall, the aspheric beam is less pleasing, though (tunnel look, square hotspot). It's either or. For my usual 100-150m range, I prefer the UltraOK.
Anyone modded this with an XPE and better driver? I was recommended this emitter: ( http://www.lck-led.com/High-Power-LED,-Drivers-Cree/c37_107/p623/Cree-XR-E-Emitter-w/-16mm-Base---R2-Bin/product_info.html ) but I didnt really find a driver I'm satisfied with.. something up to 2A on high to impress and a normal mode to use would be nice.
Hi Nightcrawl, only just saw this, I agree with agedbriar. Although I started modding this light just after those pics I put up, unfortunately I didn't finish and can't really be bothered to tbh its in parts in the scrap collection lol.
agh, too bad you're over the pond, i'd buy one w/o driver and emitter in an instant...