[Review] Sofirn IF25A flashlight: $34 (discount code available) with 21700 cell, 3800lm, USB-C, Anduril [pic heavy]

I received mine a few weeks ago.
I noted that it still had the two separate positive wires from the driver like the tint mixing version.
I had been thinking about doing a static mix of shaved SST-20 emitters and thought this might actually deal with the different forward voltage better than most because of it.
Anyway, i shaved 2 x 4000k stock SST20 (Sofirn have some of the better bins of the 4000k), then added two shaved 2700k JA3 emitters.
The mix is very nice. the JA3 are very rosy already, plus the mix went well and brought the BBL waaaaay below.
I forgot my spectrometer results, i think it was something like 3000k, –0.0060 @ RA98 on turbo. Very beautiful to my eyes indoors, possibly too rosy for some though. Down low is quite a bit higher.
The interface is obviously great, the optics have some really good throw to them (Even in the original), there is a lot of mass for dealing with heat.
Only thing i would change is the driver i suspect is a simply PWM FET design, not very efficient. Not the end of the world with a 21700 cell and some mass to the light, but it kind of takes away some of the advantages.
If they ended up building a nice boost driver or something for it, it would be the perfect mid-sized pocket rocket.

A great allround multi-emitter light to talk walking or away for the weekend for use in doors thanks to the USB-C, 21700 cell and decent throw.

I’d like to ask (I notice that Sofirn has been updating the firmware of their Anduril flashlights).

For those who just received the IF25A fairly recently (say within the last month or 2), can you do Anduril version check (15 clicks from Off) to check if it’s a newer version of Anduril? (older IF25A does not have version check, and used a fairly old Anduril version that doesn’t have the 2-level lockout or momentary strobe mode)

Mine came from Amazon UK a few weeks ago and doesn’t have version check or dual moon modes

Huh… interesting.

I wasn’t interested in the original with the tint-ramping, but the ’A version looks pretty useful.

I’d definitely go only for the 4000K version, though. 6500K is killing me.

Dear friends, good morning from Italy! I would like to add a mode that I don’t see written in this review. The mode is this: by making 7 clicks from off it is possible to activate or deactivate the LEDs on the power button; even with the flashlight off, therefore, there will be no LEDs on if deactivated with the 7 clicks from off. This seems convenient, if we do not want to consume that minimum current of the LEDs always on. :beer:

Normally, 7 clicks from Off configures the Aux-LED (for Anduril flashlights that have configurable aux-LED).
For some Anduril flashlights, this setting is connected to the side button switch (eg. the SP36, EC01, EC03, Q8 , SC31 Pro side button also lights up the same way).

7 clicks will cycle from Off -> Low (default) -> High -> Blinking (breathing) -> Off.
High uses a somewhat higher amount of power. Blinking uses less power, and the default Low actually uses very little power, just slightly higher than Off.

Just an FYI.
The Olight Traffic Wand/Diffuser works on the IF25A. The Olight diffuser mounts to the IF25A more securely than it does to the Seeker2/Pro and Warrior X.
Only caveat is, the light option must be selected first, since the button is not accessible once attached to the diffuser.
They can be found here, since Olight no longer sells them. Battery Junction/Seeker2/Pro Diffuser/Traffic Wand

The Olight diffuser/traffic wand is made of very hard, and strong, unbreakable plastic.

I have this light (IF25A). I brought it from the Sofirn store. I was disappointed it didn’t have the same version of Anduril as the BLF SP36 that I also brought from Sofirn at the same time. The version on the IF25A is older and didn’t have the useful feature where hold from off for moonlight delays going on until the hold is valid.

Sofirn’s other brand, Wurkkos, recently released a HD20 headlamp that can also function as usb-c battery to charge your phone. It’s odd they did that for a headlamp, but their handheld line of lights do not have the charge feature.

I’d get another IF25A if they add USB battery feature on the next edition.

could you elaborate on ‘until the hold is valid’? i love being able to hold on the LT1 to get the lowest setting from off.

my guess for the the USB power bank thing is that they have older stock of the earlier firmware/hardware resistors etc.
my LT1 has newer firmware with SOS, but i think it lacks the resistors for power bank.

i’m tempted to get this light, but if a version with newer firmware that includes SOS is going to be available i just may wait.

[edit] thanks for the review dave1010. :+1:

Sorry, what I said was kinda vague and the feature change in Anduril itself is very nuanced. The current IF25A’s firmware has the older Anduril where you get shortcut to moonlight if you hold from off, but the moment you click, the light comes on in moonlight, and when you release after the required delay, it stays in moonlight. If you release too soon (so that the IF25A doesn’t see it as a hold), it goes to the last used setting even if you intended it to be hold. There’s a very slight feedback by blinking the LED to tell you that you’ve held it long enough. If you overhold, the light start ramping up.

Contrast that to the latest Anduril (like the on BLF SP36). You hold from off to get to moonlight, just like the previous version. But the moment you click down, the light stays off until the hold time is met. That means you get a slight delay after clicking down when you start the hold, but the light turning on in moonlight is your cue that you’ve held down long enough and you should let go before you overhold and the light starts ramping.

It’s such a minor change, but the delay really helps you avoid holding too long (and start ramping up) or holding too short (ending in previous brightness mode). ToyKeeper does a great job making these effective UI features.

thanks for the detailed explanation river345. :+1:
i can see how that would be annoying. especially if memory was the ceiling. :weary:

agreed, ToyKeeper does amazing work. wish manufacturers would make flashing easier.

Oh that’s another strike against the IF25A. It’s difficult to flash.

does anyone make it easier? if not, can we even count that as a strike? :stuck_out_tongue:

thanks for the info flashburn. (fitting name heh)

How does the If25A beam profile compare to the SP 33V3. The 33 has a sustainable 500 lumens. Any idea what the 25A has?

Thanks for the review!
I recently got mine and can’t unscrew the front bezel to gain access to the TIR optics. It feels like it’s glued, I put so much effort but didn’t achieve a thing.

Hmm, it might be snug but I didn’t find my IF25 to have a glued bezel.
Are you using just your hands? Have you tried something like one of those rubber jar openers, or a strap wrench maybe?

My hands mainly. I then used some rubber gripping material but still no luck. Maybe I’m just weak :stuck_out_tongue:

The SP33 V3 has a tighter beam, I just ran both for 3 minutes on 100% on my kitchen wall. The IF25a is approx 30% wider, while the SP33 seemed to be slightly brighter. That said, the SP33 is also significantly more blue (purple actually). Funny as they are both claimed to be 6500k lights. Heat wise, they both got about the same temperature with the SP33 keeping its output up over the IF25a which started throttling down a touch due to its thermal management.

On a side note, I also ran my SC31 Pro next to these lights too. It had the most narrow beam of the three, produced about the same color as the IF25a, and heated up as fast as the IF25a. All are claimed to be 6500k lights, but the SP33 looks closer to that with the others showing a whiter beam I’d guess somewhere around 6k.

So the classic trade off of mass Vs. output applies. As I recall, the SP33 and IF25a had about the same throw when on turbo when I compared them last summer, but the SP33 can stay brighter (and cooler in the hand).

I recall comparing my 5k IF25a to my 6.5k IF25a when I got them back in June. The 5k really suffered in throw compared to the 6.5k version. When on turbo, the 5k threw ok, but at 70% (where temperature was low enough to keep sustained for more than a minute in the bare hand), it just didn’t get out there like the 6.5k did at the same exact set ramp limit.

I’d take any of these on a dog walk, but it’s all about sustainable output at “x” range. If I were in thicker woods, looking for a shot deer I’d take the 5k IF25a. If out in the field, the SP33 or IF25a 6.5k depending on how much turbo I’d need. But front pocket EDC, the SC31 Pro all the way. My wife uses the SC31 pro, clips it to the dog leash, and runs it full ramp (where I have it limited at about 70% also) so she doesn’t overheat and she goes about two miles a day with Queso (our border collie) on leash. I typically recharge her daily but she’s done several days without battery issues at times. I run a higher capacity (MJ1) in the SC31 Pro as she doesn’t need turbo and can go a few days between charges/walks with the dog.

One more to toss out there, the SD01. Take a Q8, make it in the shape of an insulated coffee-mug, and put a magring on it, and that’s a SD01.

You hold it by the handle, and let gravity do its thing. No need to grip the whole light like a Q8 or other sody-pop-can light.

Lowest is 350lm, bright enough for looking out for rocks, branches, holes, etc., but it cranks up to 6000lm if you want to see what’s down the path wanting to kill you.

And yeah, it’s a diving light, so no worries about getting soaked in the rain, etc.

I’ve been having fun with mine, and even a paltry 350lm on lowest is plenty bright for most things.

Darn, that sounds frustrating. Hopefully they haven’t started gluing the bezel.
A hair dryer can help weaken glue if there is any, though my experience with glued heads has always been a bit palm-blistering.