[Review] Thorfire VG10S ~ Interesting tailcap readings

The Thorfire VG10S comes in a simple cardboard box. No major accessories are included,
except from a detailed manual and a couple of replacement o-rings.
Some foam padding is also included in the box in order to protect the light during transportation.

As expected, the surface of the light is anodized for added scratch resistance.
The anodization leaves behind a satin black color.
Due to the large head fins and the crenulated bezel the light has an aggressive & tactical look.
It’s worth noting that the flashlight can tail stand.

The square cut threads are very clean and came lubricated.
The screw in of the head and tailcap is super smooth.

The total weight of the light is 128 grams.
The majority of the weight is condensed around the head, probably due to the reflector assembly and
the large heatsink.

Here’s the light disassembled to its basic pieces.
Both the driver and the switch is held in place with a thick brass retaining ring.

A closeer look at the head and tail springs.
Both springs are looking nice and well soldered.

Here’s the tailcap disassembled and a closeup of the reverse clicky switch.

And there’s the front part of the head.
The o-ring is thick, while the centering is pretty flat and as a results it makes the LED sit deep inside the reflector.
The star is held in place with a screw and is made out of copper for better thermal management.

The light uses an XP-L2 LED. Mine has a warm tint.
The UI is very simple.
In total there are four modes (Moonlight, Low, Medium, High) which can be cycled through
with a half press on the switch while being turned on.
Additionally, two quick half presses of the switch make the light jump to a variable frequency strobe.

What really caught my attention is the total output of the moonlight mode.
I have handled a lot of moonlight modes in the past, but this one is definitely the lowest.
I would estimate that we are talking about a sub-lumen output here.

Of course, the light has last mode memory.

The LED’s beam is clear and well defined.
Once pointed at a wall, I have noticed that there is a minor ring around the center hotspot but after a bit of research it turns out that the XP-L2 used is what’s causing it.

And here come’s the interesting part, at least for me…
Here are the tailcap measurements that I captured using thick, short DMM probes and a Samsung 25R 18650 cell.

Mode - Current (A)
Moonlight - 0.01 (probably even lower)
Low - 0.18
Mid - 1.15
High - 4.19

I have read multiple reviews about the light, but everyone was reporting readings between 2.5 - 3.5A.
For some reason, it seems that I have received a special kind of godzilla.
Could Thorfire have made any driver changes to the latest production batches?

Either way, since I was excited with the readings, I decided to go ahead and do the regular spring
bypass mod using copper braided wire - both on the driver and tail side.

And wait for it… I got 5.07A at the tail cap! I am really not sure why I am getting those huge readings.
Can it be that the light goes to direct drive on turbo?

Mine averages out to 4.1

What cell do you use?

Button top 30q...

Well that’s a capable cell. Have you bypassed the springs?

The last time I checked the output in the box and tube it easily hits 1160 lumen

No mods yet at all. Lol this is the day off work in almost a month. So it is totally stock.

I can confirm what OP stated :wink:

Before spring bypass : 4.2 amps | After spring bypass : 5.4 amps for 1472 lumens

Cell used : Samsung INR18650-30Q | Measured amps using UNI-T UT210E clamp meter

Excellent... It's my only day off but that's a 5 minute mod.

I'm doing that as soon as I leave Lowe's lol.

Quick question...Did you attach the wire at the base of the board or go through?

I bypassed both springs . i attached them (short 20awg wire) at the base of the board …

Thanks, I had hoped you did. That is quick and simple.

I may do the TK15S while the Iron is hot just to see if there is a change.

Can you point me to instructions on the spring mod?

I tested my VG-10S and I’m only getting 2.4 amps with a fully charged battery (4.15 v). I’m getting ~2.1 amps on my old VG-10. Both seem pretty bright, but no where near what most reviewers are saying in terms of current.

I’m using these batteries:

First of all , if you are measuring with a DMM you are getting wrong numbers … With short and thick wires on youur DMM you will be getting closer to real numbers .

Here is a photo of spring bypass from A6 thead :