Where did you pick up the Luxeon V2 for your Convoy S2+ 3x Luxeon V2 3000K? The tint looks quite nice.
It is, indeed, a pleasant tint and it was a “grail” mod I wanted to do for a while (detailed here: What did you mod today? - #9723 by MascaratumB) .
I picked it at https://led4power.com/ last year. Some weeks ago I bought another, and it arrived today
Specific link: led4power
Thank you MascaratumB for this great comparison shot. Indeed, it does not seem to be 6500K but closer to 5000K. Still too cool for me but I’m a tint snob…
Something I really, really, really like about this light (and might have to buy it just because of this feature) is the lighted switch. I love being able to reach my flashlight on my night table or tent pocket in pitch dark. I hope Wuben will put this feature on all their new lights.
You’re welcome and I’m glad it helped perceiving where it “locates” itself in the spectrum
About the lighted switch, I get what you say, it is easier to locate the flashlight in the dark in a much better way! They also have it in other lights (E12R comes to mind, and others eventually).
As Lightbringer mentioned, I too preferred a different colour on the led indicator (red) but the fact is that it works as it is
The lighted switch is in my opinion the only thing missing on the T050R to make it perfect. I don’t know if you like it as much as I do but what a fantastic wall of light, pur high CRI joy…
Yup, probably one of the best lights I have too
That is a “beast” of a light! I am afraid of using it more giving it is almost a “premium” light, but whenever needed, it comes out of the “light-box”
And yes, an indicator LED could be good on it! Using a 21700, any parasitic drain would still make no harm on it!
BTW, I am not sure if Wuben uses the led indicator on the C3 and the C5 as well!
After checking Unheard’s thread reviewing the D1 I changed the information about the LED : it is a Cree XP-L HI 6500K instead of an Osram P8 or P9 as I initially suspected.
Thanks Unheard for the correct information
Very interested in this light, but would require me to swap in an 2700K 80+ CRI to be happy with it. Does disassembly seem feasible to do this?
So far I wasn’t able to remove the bezel and I am afraid that when I do that I will damage the host a little bit. Maybe I don’t have the proper tools for it or the skills, but it is really stuck
If or when I can do that I will post it here referring to the method to retrieve it!
Tried and failed, too. I fear it needs heat, but optics and electronic components are close to the bezel. I think I’ll live with it. It’s ok outside. Actually I’m happy about every single candle I can squeeze out of it.
Thanks for telling your experience Unheard
Yeah, I suspect some heat would be needed, despite I also think that it can be some pressure downside up! But for that I’d probably need to remove the driver and that may not turn good
I did it
I disassembled the head!
So, it is not glued, but pressed. I used the tools in the photo below.
The work-knife is quite tough so I used the “baton” method around bezel, starting on one side and making the diameter tryin to push the knife edge in. After a while, it started opening a gap and then I used the knife to press the bezel towards the top. And it poped-up!
- white o-ring,
- optic/reflector (single piece as far as I can tell),
- black thick o-ring,
- copper DTP MCPCB star with around 1.2-1.5mm thickness and
- gray thermal paste below.
- EDIT: there is also a screw in the shelf to prevent the MCPCB from rotating
As Unheard has mentioned and confirmed before, this has a XP-L HI emitter.
As far as I can tell, a 3535 led seems to fit below, but careful if you want to try a XP-L HD, that has a larger dome.
- the optic/reflector has a slightly flat area on the side that allows to “disengage” it from the bezel, and I used pointy tweezers in that area to pull it out
- the bezel is somewhat “ridged” (not sure if the expression is correct) and those ridges leave a mark in the head structure, meaning that it was pressed into the head. Or the head already those grooves and the bezel fits into them… I guess the first theory is more suitable in this case.
Note that the bezel and the head have some marks because I used pliers and other tools before, unsuccessfully
Any questions, let me know
And good luck in case you folks try to disassemble it!
If ano scratches are visible, a sharpie/edding hopefully helps. Do you have an idea what LED you’ll reflow?
Hum, the scratch on the optic does not interfere with the beam, and the scratches of the host…well, I’ll say it adds personality
As for the led to reflow I don’t have many options around me so a Luxeon V2 may be the candidate! I don’t know the tint yet
The optic sits really over the led, I can see the marks in mine, so it needs to be a carefull operation
Luxeon V2 4000K on the board
It guess the beam is - structurally - the same, but the tint is obviously different
Here are some photos from it and from the driver.
BTW, the solder on the wires is quite tough, so if you’re going to replace the led, be ready for that!
Or maybe my soldering iron may is too weak, eventually
the battery can charge ony with 5V 1A charger? - because nowdays is hard to get. can i charge witg 5V 2.1 A or above charger?
And it fits with the dome left on!
What was the reason to choose the Luxeon? What CCT is it?
The joys of RoHS?
Yup, the dome fits in But I still suspect that a XP-L- HD wouldn’t fit well!
As for the Luxeon, I have a bunch of them that I bought from Led4Power. I really like these leds, they have a warm tint, with some rosy notes (not like Nichia, though).
I used a 4000K, similar to the one I installed in the OTR 311, RovyVon A23 and also FW1A
It is a balanced LED for my current tastes, even if they are not High CRI leds.
I suspect so, maybe lead-free solder is the reason . Or maybe my soldering iron needs to be powerfull
Thanks foк great review!
Do you think any CRI 90-95 (4000-5000K) led will fit this light?
Hi and welcome to BLF!
Sure, as far as I can see, any 3535 led will fit and can be used, so Nichia, SST-20 or Samsung LH351D can be used.
The only ones I don’t think that can be used without damaging the led is Cree XP-L HD.
I guess that the Samsung leds, even being larger than Nichias concerning the “dome”, can be used.