Thank you MascaratumB for this great comparison shot. Indeed, it does not seem to be 6500K but closer to 5000K. Still too cool for me but I’m a tint snob…
Something I really, really, really like about this light (and might have to buy it just because of this feature) is the lighted switch. I love being able to reach my flashlight on my night table or tent pocket in pitch dark. I hope Wuben will put this feature on all their new lights.
You’re welcome and I’m glad it helped perceiving where it “locates” itself in the spectrum
About the lighted switch, I get what you say, it is easier to locate the flashlight in the dark in a much better way! They also have it in other lights (E12R comes to mind, and others eventually).
As Lightbringer mentioned, I too preferred a different colour on the led indicator (red) but the fact is that it works as it is
Yup, probably one of the best lights I have too
That is a “beast” of a light! I am afraid of using it more giving it is almost a “premium” light, but whenever needed, it comes out of the “light-box”
And yes, an indicator LED could be good on it! Using a 21700, any parasitic drain would still make no harm on it!
BTW, I am not sure if Wuben uses the led indicator on the C3 and the C5 as well!
So far I wasn’t able to remove the bezel and I am afraid that when I do that I will damage the host a little bit. Maybe I don’t have the proper tools for it or the skills, but it is really stuck
If or when I can do that I will post it here referring to the method to retrieve it!
Tried and failed, too. I fear it needs heat, but optics and electronic components are close to the bezel. I think I’ll live with it. It’s ok outside. Actually I’m happy about every single candle I can squeeze out of it.
Thanks for telling your experience Unheard
Yeah, I suspect some heat would be needed, despite I also think that it can be some pressure downside up! But for that I’d probably need to remove the driver and that may not turn good
So, it is not glued, but pressed. I used the tools in the photo below.
The work-knife is quite tough so I used the “baton” method around bezel, starting on one side and making the diameter tryin to push the knife edge in. After a while, it started opening a gap and then I used the knife to press the bezel towards the top. And it poped-up!
optic/reflector (single piece as far as I can tell),
black thick o-ring,
copper DTP MCPCB star with around 1.2-1.5mm thickness and
gray thermal paste below.
EDIT: there is also a screw in the shelf to prevent the MCPCB from rotating
As Unheard has mentioned and confirmed before, this has a XP-L HI emitter.
As far as I can tell, a 3535 led seems to fit below, but careful if you want to try a XP-L HD, that has a larger dome.
the optic/reflector has a slightly flat area on the side that allows to “disengage” it from the bezel, and I used pointy tweezers in that area to pull it out
the bezel is somewhat “ridged” (not sure if the expression is correct) and those ridges leave a mark in the head structure, meaning that it was pressed into the head. Or the head already those grooves and the bezel fits into them… I guess the first theory is more suitable in this case.
Note that the bezel and the head have some marks because I used pliers and other tools before, unsuccessfully
Any questions, let me know
And good luck in case you folks try to disassemble it!
Hum, the scratch on the optic does not interfere with the beam, and the scratches of the host…well, I’ll say it adds personality
As for the led to reflow I don’t have many options around me so a Luxeon V2 may be the candidate! I don’t know the tint yet
The optic sits really over the led, I can see the marks in mine, so it needs to be a carefull operation
Yup, the dome fits in But I still suspect that a XP-L- HD wouldn’t fit well!
As for the Luxeon, I have a bunch of them that I bought from Led4Power. I really like these leds, they have a warm tint, with some rosy notes (not like Nichia, though).
I used a 4000K, similar to the one I installed in the OTR 311, RovyVon A23 and also FW1A
It is a balanced LED for my current tastes, even if they are not High CRI leds.
I suspect so, maybe lead-free solder is the reason . Or maybe my soldering iron needs to be powerfull
Thanks man! Just looking for an ideal flashlight as usual, with type-c built-in, nice flood\combo light, hi-cri, protected batteries (paranoid, that’s why fireflies or noctigon lights won’t go), found this WUBEN and the only drawback is a little cold and not h-cri led, so with your information hope it will be cool (not meaning tint!).