[review] Wurkkos WK20 diving light [and for the WK20S as well]

Lightbringer · 2019-06-01T04:23:47.000Z

d_t_a:

That flashlight looks almost exactly like the Sofirn SD02A (uses XPL-HD 3000K tint)…

Yeh, I mentioned that up-top. Seems to be all-in-the-family. :laughing:

Rexlion · 2019-06-01T20:24:39.000Z

The Wurkkos arrived in today’s mail. It looks and feels good. The switch action feels really interesting. The beam certainly is more warm, sort of orange-yellow, than my yellowy Eagtac GX25A3 (3700K). But actually not quite as warm as the Adventure Sport Super Bulb XM-L2 S6 dropin in my 4D Maglite, even though the latter is supposed to be 3000K also. I look forward to seeing it at night.

First thing I noticed, though, was that the tailcap ridges aren’t pronounced enough to satisfy me; the light could still roll off a flat surface if bumped. Happily a Streamlight 75701 anti-roll ring fits and is now adorning the business end like a king’s crown.

The Streamlight Siege I’d been waiting for came in the same mail batch today, too. This is shaping up to be a great weekend!

Lightbringer · 2019-06-05T15:56:32.000Z

Hey! The 2000lm NW ’20S is on sale for 34bux, and the 1000lm WW ’20 is reduced to 26bux.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07Q21MXLG/

I like the brightness of the ’20S, but the WW goodness of the ’20 can’t be beat.

—

And I added a write-up for the WK20S in the OP as well. See above.

Wanted to get some comparative beamshots (’20/’20S) against some trees but the neighbor’s got his spotlights on all night for the past two weeks, muddying up everything.

Rexlion · 2019-06-05T20:31:40.000Z

I’ve found that my muscle memory expects a light to turn off with a brief click, but since this light only advances the output mode by that means (off is via long press), it’s mildly irritating. Otherwise I like it. It tailstands more steadily than I thought it would just from looking at it.

Lightbringer · 2019-06-05T23:01:40.000Z

Considering all the lights I have that need a click, press’n’hold, double-click, half-click, long-click, etc., it’s no big deal for me to adjust. Each one has its own “personality”.

CLB · 2019-08-24T16:27:32.000Z

Thank you, Lightbringer! You’re the best scout we have for interesting new lights that otherwise might be off the radar. The Wurkkos WK30 and WK20 are both terrific little lights. The WK20 is notable especially for the 3000K CCT, the nice 1 lumen low-low level, and the magnetic switch (which is much less vulnerable to grit than, for example, the ring on the Sofirn SD05).

I have mixed feelings about the WK20S. For underwater, I like the higher output. But, for out of the water use, it’s unfortunate Wurkkos eliminated the low-low level. And then there is the tint. Back in post #8, Lightbringer, you worried about the potential “urine-yellow corona” of the XP35. Well, that’s what my copy has. Reading the description too quickly, I thought the emitter was an XHP35 HI, but it is actually the XHP35 HD, which is notorius for its tint shift: in my case, a neutral white hot spot, yellow corona, and purplish spill. Is yours better? Diffusion film could probably help, but I don’t want to lose any throw.

I plan to use both the WK20 and WK20S on a freediving trip to Catalina Island in September, and I will report back on how the lights performed underwater, and whether the tint problems of the WK20S were noticeable in actual use.

Lightbringer · 2019-08-24T18:58:47.000Z

CLB:

Thank you, Lightbringer! You’re the best scout we have for interesting new lights that otherwise might be off the radar.

CLB:

The Wurkkos WK30 and WK20 are both terrific little lights. The WK20 is notable especially for the 3000K CCT, the nice 1 lumen low-low level, and the magnetic switch (which is much less vulnerable to grit than, for example, the ring on the Sofirn SD05).

Absolutely. I reviewed one ’20 and bought another ’20 just because of the CT/tint and it being a great little light.

I didn’t even think about the grit factor, though. If I knew how the rings came off the ’20 and ’05, maybe I could figure out a way to prevent ingress (eg, slap on some waterproof grease to “pack” the gap).

CLB:

I have mixed feelings about the WK20S. For underwater, I like the higher output. But, for out of the water use, it’s unfortunate Wurkkos eliminated the low-low level. And then there is the tint. Back in post #8, Lightbringer, you worried about the potential “urine-yellow corona” of the XP35. Well, that’s what my copy has. Reading the description too quickly, I thought the emitter was an XHP35 HI, but it is actually the XHP35 HD, which is notorius for its tint shift: in my case, a neutral white hot spot, yellow corona, and purplish spill. Is yours better? Diffusion film could probably help, but I don’t want to lose any throw.

Yeah, mine has that, too. A lot of flip-chips have that problem (and some non-flip-chips, too). I imagine that underwater and backscattering, it’d be less of a problem (built-in diffusion film, so to speak). When white-wall hunting, yeah, it’s very noticeable.

It’s funny you mention diffusion film, though. I slapped a sticky piece (“frost”, I think) on the ’05 to get rid of the corona, and it’s an incredible — and I mean incredible — indoor floodlight. I love my Cometa for indoor lighting, like going down the basement and not bothering to flick on the lights, etc., and it’s a wonderfully even blanket of light… within the lit circle. A bit harsh as things come into and go out of view. But the ’20S with its hella bright beam and diffusion film, it’s a similar wall of light, but with much softer edges. Like an area light, hella bright, but not like a stage-light with harsh edges to the beam.

Even the WW ’20 looks incredible with DF on the front glass. Moonlight/Lowest is incredible for close-in viewing like just checking the clock or whatnot.

CLB:

I plan to use both the WK20 and WK20S on a freediving trip to Catalina Island in September, and I will report back on how the lights performed underwater, and whether the tint problems of the WK20S were noticeable in actual use.

Kewl, sounds good! I’d think it wouldn’t be a problem, much less so in murkier water (again, acting as its own “diffusion film”), but that’s only a guess. I’m thinking you’ll be impressed, too. :laughing:

Oh, check out Markus’s review of the ’05, too.

CLB · 2019-09-29T21:26:44.000Z

CLB:

I plan to use both the WK20 and WK20S on a freediving trip to Catalina Island in September, and I will report back on how the lights performed underwater, and whether the tint problems of the WK20S were noticeable in actual use.

See Diving Light Comparison: SD05, WK20S, WK20

Lightbringer · 2019-09-29T22:39:25.000Z

CLB:

See Diving Light Comparison: SD05, WK20S, WK20

Kewl, tnx!

My only underwater experience with flashlights would be testing them in a utility sink. :laughing:

CLB · 2019-09-30T00:35:57.000Z

It’s a division of labor, Lightbringer. If you scout out any dive lights, I’ll buy ’em and take ’em in the water. Thanks for being our weather eye for interesting new lights.

Lightbringer · 2019-09-30T01:19:38.000Z

CLB:

It’s a division of labor, Lightbringer. If you scout out any dive lights, I’ll buy ’em and take ’em in the water. Thanks for being our weather eye for interesting new lights.

No worries. One of my favorite playthings for a while was the DV-S9.

It’s CW, so you’d probably like it. Sharp design, love the magnetic slider (removes easily for cleaning if you unscrew the colored collar, but is “polarised” so be sure you put it back in the same direction), takes a 26650 for lots of oomf, and has O-rings out the wazoo.

Lightbringer · 2019-09-30T01:21:13.000Z

Oh, and any issue with all these lights is parasitic drain, a good 10mA or so, or running down a cell in 3wks or thereabout. So tailcap-lockout is a must when storing them.

d_t_a · 2019-10-02T05:38:21.000Z

What’s the LED used on the WK20S?

I’m presuming it may be a clone of the SD05 (uses XHP50.2), although in the form factor of the SD02A (uses XPL-HD 3000k) = which would be the same as the WK20, my guess.

Lightbringer · 2019-10-02T13:57:33.000Z

d_t_a:

What’s the LED used on the WK20S?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Q21MXLG

XHP35.

Mr_Shao · 2020-09-10T01:35:45.000Z

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Lightbringer · 2020-09-10T03:58:39.000Z

Half off? Noice…

Zappaman · 2020-09-11T04:28:26.000Z

I KNEW I’d buy one of these WK20S’s some day soon.

Just bought on Amazon US… using the code happily provided by Mr. Shao- THANK YOU SIR!

I HAVE the Sofirn SD-2 (and love it) so this should be a close “cousin” with more output. My wife and I WILL dive this light (and the new SD-5 I got last month) around X-mas time IF I can get to Cozumel with Covid and all.

Zappaman · 2020-09-17T02:22:22.000Z

Got the Wurkkos WK20S in today and went out tonight to check it out. But first I grabbed my Sofirn SD-02 dive light I’ve owned a few years now and compared them side by side- they are IDENTICAL host bodies. Basically this Wurkkos WK20S is an updated version of the Sofirn SD-02 with a different emitter and (probably) driver.

I took my IF25a out to check against the WK20S and the IF25A kept up in throw ONLY running at full speed— where it got hot very fast. The Wurkkos took twice as long to get to the same hot state as the IF25A (as expected). The beam on the WK20S was tighter than the IF25A, and the tint was a bit cooler (both my IF25A 6.5k lights are truly closer to 6k) and I could tell tonight with the WK20S being more blue and probably right at 6.5k as stated.

Before taking it out, I charged the Wurkkos battery in the supplied charger where I showed green (full) at 4.13V. So not a full 4.2V charge, but fine as battery life is better with the lesser charge anyway. I am sure I could get several dives out of one battery with this charge so all good there. I am guessing the Wurkkos (white wrapped) battery is the same 3kmAh as Sofirn’s (black wrapped) labeled 3k battery from what I could see.

The Wurkkos came in a nice color printed box with all the usual stuff: USB cable, single slot charger, a few spare o-rings, and a serious lanyard that is an update from the SD-XX lanyards I’ve gotten in the past. As a diver, I’d still add an extension from the lanyard to the light, but this is the first time a dive light came to me with a lanyard that WILL work in a pinch- with a nice rubber boot over the hand-hold side of the lanyard’s rope which is thicker and longer than any I’ve received in the past.

So a great light for diving here and I am hoping to get it underwater this December and report back then.

roundlites · 2020-12-17T22:27:51.000Z

Who knows where I can get a replacement switch for the WK20S?

Lightbringer · 2020-12-17T22:45:13.000Z

The actual internal switch, or just the button?

Former, no idea.

Latter, it’s just held in with the retaining ring and can be cleaned/scrubbed out thoroughly and replaced. Spring, too.