[review] Wurkkos WK30 white/red/UV light

Or could it be that you got the 395nm version?

Received the WK30 today. Battery is charging now, can’t wait to start playing around with it in a few hours.

Description states 395nm.

It appears that the newest WK30 lights being delivered from Amazon US (and probably worldwide from other authorized suppliers) will have the newer 365 nm UV LEDs.

The thread linked below compares the newer 365 and older 395 nm UV LEDs and has pictures which can be zoomed into which visually show the differences between the 365 and 395 nm UV LED used in the WK30 (the white colored LED in these pictures is the UV LED):

https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/62478

You do not need to take anything apart to compare your UV LED, just looking at the UV LED through the lens with about 10x magnification should show the pattern on the LED which should be different enough based on the pictures to distinguish between the 365 nm and 395 nm UV LEDs.

The older 395 nm UV LED looks sort of like a pin cushion with 41 pin prick holes (five rows of five holes alternating with four rows of four holes).

The newer 365 nm UV looks sort of like this ASCII representation |V| except the sides slope out like this \ / and the V is shorter like this v but wide enough to connect the top ends of the two sides and the bottom of the v does not touch the bottom line. All the lines are connected at their corners but there are two small gaps, one gap is at the point on the bottom of the V and the other gap is in the middle of the bottom line.

The first WK30 I bought has the 395nm. I just received a second one, and it’s 365nm. Very nice, and big improvement with the 365nm variant.

Don’t know how many of the 395nm models are still floating around on the market, but I would contact the seller you want to buy from, and make sure you get a 365nm WK30.

It is a fun torch to have.

Has anyone got an issue that sometimes when I go for a turbo, the light wouldn’t hit the level it normally does. It’s like the brightness jumps up a little from the mid mode, quite equals to when the brightness steps down after 3 minutes of turbo. I have to unscrew and screw back the tailcap so the light can hit a full brightness. But it will happen again at random. I thought it might be due to the low voltage of the battery but that doesn’t seem to be the case.

Sounds like dirt/grease somewhere on the contacts. Unscrewing/rescrewing would then “clean” it at least temporarily.

Thank you, Lightbringer. I will try and see how it is.

Lightbringer,
you seem to be a Wurkkos fan. Do you happen to own the Wurkkos Radio Bluetooth Speaker?

I saw some Amazon Questions and reviews saying AM is not “useful”. I wonder what that’s about.

Unno. I got one, and reviewed it, too. I don’t listen to radio (on my old car, I even unscrewed the whip antenna and put a plastic sleeve on the stump to protect the threads just in case), but I did check am/fm/sw and everything worked.

Then again, I’m in NYC and there are no doubt radio stations right close by, so it’s not like I’m out in the sticks somewhere.

Thank you for checking,

The white LED did light up objects quite close to their natural colors.

white led

Does anyone know what type of driver is used for the UV channel? Is it linear, or buck/boost? I’m interested in seeing if the UV can be swapped to an IR LED.

Dunno offhand, never saw pix of the driver, either.

Anyone crack it open yet? :laughing:

AFAIK, WK30 can be driven with 2x CR123A (not recommended), so I presume it is a buckdriver.

Are the 365nm being advertised as “395nm”? Bought one before I researched :person_facepalming: (Sofirn / Ali)

That hot spot is about the size of a cigar burn…….do I stutter?

New comment?

Dunno how to speed up your clicking, but goggle “I-RECOVER protocol” for the other thing.

No, don’t feel alone. It usually takes me at least 3 tries to get to UV.

:+1: Heck, I almost feel like Ive won the lottery when I do reach UV……. :partying_face: