So I am just getting into learning how to take apart certain lights and modify them / repair them when they stop working. Such is the case with this Rofis. The side switch is used to switch the modes and while it still works it doesn’t depress with a click anymore. it feels like pressing your cellphone screen, no travel and no distinct click. I can separate the body into 3 pieces head, tail and cap, but I can’t get the bezel off the head. I’ve tried as hard as I can without implementing tools to remove this thing but no luck. My goal is to get access to the side switch in the head to see if I can repair it. Any suggestions?
Can u remove the driver from behind the head?
Possibly, it seems to have two small flats on opposite sides of the driver although it looks really tight. Like it may unscrew from out of the head?
Will help us.
Matt
Here is the base of the head looking at the bottom of the driver.
- I would not attempt to “unscrew” the driver from the head. It’s much more likely that the driver is a press-fit. If that is the case and short wires are involved you could rip traces off of the PCB while attempting to “unscrew” the driver. The threads you see appear to be the threads used to connect the head to the body tube.
- To remove the bezel try pressing the bezel firmly into a carpet or against the edge of a wooden board. In the case of the board you should use wood you don’t mind damaging. Unless the bezel is glued/threadlocked (it might be) a firm twist should get it started using either the board or carpet. Even if it’s glued or threadlocked you should be safe putting a lot of force into trying to twist it off while shoved up against a board.
- If you get the bezel off you’re well on your way to getting the driver out. Gently remove the reflector and glass. Do not attempt to remove the LED board unless it falls out. You should be able to shove a firm poking tool (like an optical drive eject tool, good paperclip, or piano wire) through one of the LED wiring holes next to the LED’s MCPCB up against the driver. Gently feel around and try to find an area which does not have components on it. Shove firmly with the poking tool to pop the driver out. You can easily damage the driver using this process. Once the driver is out you should make careful note of where each wire connects with colors & everything you might need in case a wire comes off or you take one off. Pictures are worth a thousand words, notes are good too.
- As usual we’d love to see clear, high resolution pictures of the driver and the components it’s using.
And of course Wight is right! Should be able to pop it out with a tiny screwdriver. Don't go to crazy, you may need to pop it out thru one of the wire holes on the top side.
Matt
Thanks for the advice of wight! I’ll have to get a piece of wood to try and turn that bezel. It does feel like it may be glued in place. The one on my M22 came right off. I’ll be sure to document the process. I have a lot of soldering experience, I’ve been in electronic pcb soldering and manufacturing my whole working career and am familiar with pcb circuitry. Just starting to learn the basics here and this seems like a good project to jump in to familiarize myself with the components that make up a good light. And open the doors to future modifications. 
Sounds good Omega73.
As far as the bezel being glued: I wouldn’t worry just yet. Regardless of glue, if it was tightened with a tool there’s no way you’re getting it back off without a tool (the board).
As far as your experience: In that case I’ll bring up one specific thing of importance that you might not know. Power LEDs like these frequently have delicate, soft domes. This is much unlike your typical indicator LED. That’s one of the reasons for not attempting to desolder the wires from the LED’s MCPCB and remove that through the front of the light. It’s possible to do and some of us actually do it rather frequently - but unlike your other typical component, knocking the LED gently with the soldering iron is often going to damage the dome. Shoving a soldering iron down the front of a flashlight head is a skill best learned on a cheaper light IMO.
So with that said, here are two related things:
- If you get the reflector out and find that all the holes are completely filled with wires you might get stuck and have to desolder a wire inside the head. Beware - once the wire comes loose it’s quite possible for it to fall against the dome and melt it IIRC… heh.
- If you want another technique for getting press-fit drivers out… you can solder a wire to the GND ring and then firmly pull. It’s possible to lift the GND trace, so this is a potential problem for you on a relatively pricey light. I’d go that route as a last resort. I’ve done it before (I think I got the technique from comfychair who I’m quite sure has done it plenty of times), but destroying nice CC LED drivers out of $50/$100/whatever flashlights is definitely not part of my hobby when I can avoid it…
Thanks wight! Your advice will be taken. This was the first 18650 light I purchased quite a while back. The tint is bad, lots of green and purple in it. When the inner components come out, some research will be done to find out about resoldering a better emitter to it. I have been completely won over by neutral white tint. Seems like I’m starting down a slippery slope with this one. 
But first things first. I’ll try tomorrow after I get back from work, time to call it a night.
Thanks