Just got the Romi RC-T601 U2 from ShinningBeam. Its a 2 mode U2 drop in that gets stuck on high and wont drop to low after it warms up a bit (approx 6 min). Shinningbeam said they cannot fix the problem, but will give me a refund. Any suggestions for a new pill, (with LINK please). I'm newbish so no soldering skills. Would like equivalent or greater. Thanks!
as far as I know there are no pills for the t601..there are barely any offerings for the C8 which is a much more popular format..I tossed a 3a nangj V2 driver in my T601 and it's great now..contact E1320 and send him the pill and he'll hook you up with a new driver..
Thanks Pounder, that’s the route I will take. Appreciate the help.
no problem! E will take care of you..
E has my back and will have my pill in a couple days. Thanks Again!
WTF?! :| :bigsmile:
Ya, this was added to the site yesterday after the complaint.
…hopefully. I’m still quite a noob when it comes to the d.i.y. stuff and Mods- more than a year has passed since the OP, does anyone know if there is a complete drop in now available for the rc-t601? Mine came factory dud and I still havent sent it back(plans to do so got put on hold). Would love to take that return shipping $$$ and just buy a replacement part… Any help appreciated!! Thx fellow FLF’s 8)
Im pretty sure if you have the same one I wrote about in the OP that its a pill and not a drop in. So, personally if it were me and this was a brand new unit I would conscider returning it and getting your $ back. I actually had mine repaired by E1320 For a reasonable price, but there are SO many other better lights to choose from with updated leds and drivers that this known to be defective light right out of the box to me isn’t worth sinking more # into IMO. Sorry to hear that this problem had STILL never been fixed. This light has a C8 type pill that in my research was unavailable last year and Im pretty sure is still unavailable. If anyone has any better info on this please chime in! Good luck.
I would think that as mentioned above, c8’s are more popular now so maybe there is something that would fit the romisen…… Hate to ship all the way back and wait. : (
same problem on my RC-T601 bought on dinodirect I think, at end was able of run just in high mode
so changed the driver with a nanjg 105c like
http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10001683/1186301-8-amc7135-2-group-25-modes-led-flashlight-driver-n
well built light with a good heat dissipation but not worth the hassle of change the driver
better a convoy c8 that is also cheaper
Yup, mine was a driver update too.
So, after considering all advice on this thread and several others, I ordered a few things. Hopefully I got the right stuff : / I plan on a new driver amd emitter for the romisen t601 and the same upgrades for my uf c8 T6…. Heres what I got:
Two of these: http://intl-outdoor.com/qlite-reva-71358-multiple-modes-circuit-board-304a-p-710.html
And…
Two of these:
http://intl-outdoor.com/cree-xml-u3-1c-led-16mm-mcpcb-p-593.html
Try 3 of these if you can change your order, brighter and high quality heatsink.
http://intl-outdoor.com/noctigon-xm16-mcpcb-cree-xml2-u2-1c-led-p-746.html
See Im a noob, I didnt even see those…. I’ll have to sneak in another order, mines already shipped.
Hikelite, what is the difference between the U2 and U3? I see the potential lumen numbers for the U2, but not any for the U3. Being a noob, I just assumed that like the natural progression of things, the U3 must be newer and better than the U2 (didnt see the U2 anyway) I’m not concerned too much about the tint, but if I’m going to spend money to upgrade this light, I want to obviously make it as powerful as possible! If the difference is only 50 lumens or something, I wont sweat it, but if there is a major difference I’ll get the U2. Your thoughts appreciated…. : )
EDIT- Also didnt see the xml-“2” in the description…. So I got an xml-u3 and you suggest an xml-2 u2.
I was thinking about this flashlight and I happen to have a nanjg 105c laying around so I have a few questions.
I thought the XM-L capable of handling quite a bit more current, so why this driver?
Do you know what the high mode current is for the stock driver?
How does the low and high light output compare now?