SFT-42R 6500K LEDs are available

Unheard · 2020-07-14T18:24:22.000Z

Danthemanz:

Yeah I recently got a Convoy triple with the 2700k sst-20 and I wasn’t impressed with the tint either, I’ve given up on sst-20.

I like the 2700 and 3500k, next nice SST20 is 4000k at higher currents. The 3000k is not bad, but just not natural to me. Must be a preferences thing.

ToyKeeper · 2020-07-14T19:35:10.000Z

gregor:

KR4 E21A … What cell do you recommend?

A 3500 mAh cell like the 35E should be a good choice for it. The driver only uses up to 5A on turbo, so a high-amp cell is unnecessary.

gregor · 2020-07-14T21:06:59.000Z

Toykeeper, thank you for your answer.
Much appreciated.

leon46 · 2020-07-15T04:31:03.000Z

mbp wrote: I’m honestly not sure why you would ever choose E21A over the old venerable 219b at this point…

More throw?..

SKV89 · 2020-07-15T07:35:38.000Z

varbos:

Tally-ho:

ToyKeeper:

E21A is a really nice emitter for people who prioritize the quality of light over the brightness, but it definitely won’t “wow” people on turbo like a lot of other lights do.

Yes, it’s nice to see Emisar stepping out a bit from the trend of “pocket rocket” with better light quality flashlights.

I would like to see an ordinary EDC light from Emisar. Not a pants-burning quad and not a pencil-beam thrower.

The KR4 w/ quad E21A is what you are looking for. It has a 5A regulated driver without direct drive making this super practical light that cannot set your pants on fire.

lightdecay · 2020-07-15T08:11:53.000Z

I received my first KR4 on Monday, and now I wonder if Hank would want to make a smaller EDC flashlight of the same style.

Smaller than FW3A, with Anduril, using a 14500 battery (perhaps also supporting AA batteries), and 4xE21A next to each other and allowing for tint mixing.

[Reference] Nichia E17A/E21A (2000K - 6500K, R9050/R9080, color) CCT and tint shots Flashlight Modding and DIY Parts

This is a dedicated thread to make choosing/mixing Nichia E17A/E21A easier. Maukka’s measurement data will be added later. We measure/photograph exactly the same LEDs Work in Progress Bare white PVC reflector [image] [image] 1 meter from the wall. All shots used 700mA constant current per LED. Camera Body: Olympus OMD E-M5, [WB5600K, manual mode. RAW]. Lens: LUMIX G VARIO 12-35/F2.8 Image processing: DxO Optics Pro 11 geometry corrected per camera body/lens combo with built-in module …

That would be an amazing EDC, and AA support would make it great for gifting to other people.

leon46 · 2020-07-15T13:10:30.000Z

Beside the sample tested by maukka, did anybody tried the clear optic 10622 on the 4x e21a ? The concept of a throwy very high CRI with 1200 lumens is quite interesting. For outdoor use, tint shift shouldn’t be a problem (?)

SammysHP · 2020-07-15T17:04:06.000Z

Today I received a replacement MCPCB for my KR1 and some spare o-rings after only two weeks. Thank you, Hank!

Frostcream · 2020-07-15T18:20:22.000Z

Hey, I just realized that brass often has lead in it. Is this something I should be concerned about with the brass D4V2?

This is new to me.

I’ll keep the light, I just am curious if it should be handled with extra care.

chrisddo · 2020-07-15T21:04:50.000Z

Is anyone, with both the KR1 and original KR4, noticing that the KR1 tailcap switch is a touch more stable and less wobbly than the early KR4 iterations? report!

Unheard · 2020-07-15T21:03:26.000Z

chrisddo:

Is anyone with both the KR1 and original KR4, noticing that the KR1 tailcap switch is a touch more stable and less wobbly? report!

I only own the KR1, but I answer nontheless: Its switch isn’t wobbly at all. Feels very nice.

Unheard · 2020-07-15T21:07:16.000Z

Frostcream:

Hey, I just realized that brass often has lead in it. Is this something I should be concerned about with the brass D4V2?

No. Brass always contained lead.

Danthemanz · 2020-07-15T22:06:58.000Z

MoreLumens:

Unheard:

Danthemanz:

Yeah I recently got a Convoy triple with the 2700k sst-20 and I wasn’t impressed with the tint either, I’ve given up on sst-20.

I like the 2700 and 3500k, next nice SST20 is 4000k at higher currents. The 3000k is not bad, but just not natural to me. Must be a preferences thing.

I also like 4000k, but maybe 2700k is just too warm for me. Maybe 3500k would do the trick if there would be one.

Higher currents is key to the SST20. Below basically direct drive i cant stand them these days, the green is too dominant.
I have 1, yes only 1 SST20 4000k that came in a $30 Sofirn light that is OK at lower currents and beautiful at higher.

If you want something throwy with decent colour and you are running high amps, there is nothing like it though. Therefore i think its better suited to singles, not triples and quads (or 12 as in my ROT66g2)

There is something more than the green in the tint as well, i cant explain it, a minus green filter helps, but reduces output and still isnt the best around. Sure the colour rendition is good and it does very well with reds over say a Nichia 219c, but personally im done with it when there are so many amazing Nichia options available. I even prefer the Nichia 319AT R8000 for tint over any of the SST20s ive seen, only if you are looking for brightness and lower CRI, reds etc but still better than your typical Cree.

Some people love it, so be it, its cheap and readily available which is fantastic. Apparently some people like the XPL-HD 6500K, so whatever :person_facepalming:

Danthemanz · 2020-07-15T22:07:28.000Z

leon46:

Beside the sample tested by maukka, did anybody tried the clear optic 10622 on the 4x e21a ? The concept of a throwy very high CRI with 1200 lumens is quite interesting. For outdoor use, tint shift shouldn’t be a problem (?)

Yeah i had alot of beam shift in my 3500k with the 10622.
I somewhat sanded the top of it to be somewhere inbetween the two options, there is a little shift oon the edges but its managable indoors. Its certainly got more throw which is nice, but its still a multi TIR which arent great for outdoors where you want any sort of distance.

Ive been thinking about building a quadrix into a Convoy C8 with some DC-Fix, should still get a better hotspot then the smaller lights ive been building. Not sure if i will get around to it though as ive overloaded with options right now.

contactcr · 2020-07-15T22:30:32.000Z

Danthemanz:

Higher currents is key to the SST20. Below basically direct drive i cant stand them these days, the green is too dominant.

The good news is because the Emisar’s are able to be flashed you could turn (some?) into a worse quality driver, a la Sofirn.

If you customize firmware, disable all the 7135 channels, and reflash it for FET only (in a D4v2 for example) you would be running “Direct Drive” in all modes. Tint problem will be loads better at the expense of crippling the efficiency. In fact, i’m surprised no one has done it yet.

iamlucky13 · 2020-07-15T23:16:03.000Z

Unheard:

Frostcream:

Hey, I just realized that brass often has lead in it. Is this something I should be concerned about with the brass D4V2?

No. Brass always contained lead.

It depends on the alloy. It is common for there to be a couple percent, however, to improve machinability and reduce friction.

There is a lot of study about exposure due to brass hose and some other plumbing fittings, because of course, we drink the water that goes through those. External brass exposure gets less study, but I did find a study looking at blood lead levels of locksmiths:

PubMed Central (PMC)

Assessment of Lead Exposure Risk in Locksmiths

Exposure to lead has been well recognized in a number of work environments, but little is known about lead exposure associated with machining brass keys containing lead. The brass that is widely used for key manufacturing usually contains 1.5% – ...

In short, they had 50% higher blood lead levels than control groups. Keep in mind, cutting keys is a grinding process, so it makes lots of small particles, and they could be doing this kind of work routinely. They’re probably one of the worst cases to look at.

Even so, the 3 µg/dL noted in that link is below the EPA action level of 5 µg/dL, and the action the EPA recommends at that level is followup tests to see if your level stays high, and a survey to identify possible sources of exposure for awareness. I think remediation activities are normally recommended at 15 µg/dL.

So in summary, yes, lead is commonly present in brass, and it may be a concern, but probably a minor one. The concern is highest for children, because it is believed to affect a developing brain more than that of a grown adult.

Danthemanz · 2020-07-15T23:38:58.000Z

contactcr:

Danthemanz:

Higher currents is key to the SST20. Below basically direct drive i cant stand them these days, the green is too dominant.

The good news is because the Emisar’s are able to be flashed you could turn (some?) into a worse quality driver, a la Sofirn.

If you customize firmware, disable all the 7135 channels, and reflash it for FET only (in a D4v2 for example) you would be running “Direct Drive” in all modes. Tint problem will be loads better at the expense of crippling the efficiency. In fact, i’m surprised no one has done it yet.

Good point about the DD though. I had assumed that particular light simply had a rare BBL hugging SST20 in it, but it could be the shit driver. I have no idea what the driver is actually.
Its the Sofirn SC31B. I had planned to steal the LED and put it in something better, but maybe its nothing special…

Not sure actually if DD using PWM makes them any better than CC, but its worth a try.
I had once in a FW1A, at top of ramp it was green. Double click into DD and it brightness hardly changed, but the tint changed almost magically into something nice. Heat went through the roof though of course. No idea how many amps it was pulling, but the brightness barely changed.

SKV89 · 2020-07-16T00:57:42.000Z

Danthemanz:

Higher currents is key to the SST20. Below basically direct drive i cant stand them these days, the green is too dominant.
I have 1, yes only 1 SST20 4000k that came in a $30 Sofirn light that is OK at lower currents and beautiful at higher.

I’ve seen some very green SST-20 4000K but if you get the FA3 tint, it’s actually on or slightly above the BBL at low currents and below the BBL at high currents. The SST-20 4000K FA3 bin that came with my Fireflies E07 is the best SST-20 4000K I’ve seen. I believe Hank is now using the FA3 despite he was previously using the above BBL bins.

Frostcream · 2020-07-16T03:14:58.000Z

iamlucky13:

So in summary, yes, lead is present in brass, and it may be a concern, but probably a minor one.

EDIT I guess it’s 100 percent nothing worry about actually. Enjoy your brass lights without worry, friends.

Straight from OSHA.

“Lead (except for certain organic lead compounds not covered by the standard, such as tetraethyl lead) is not absorbed through your skin. When lead is scattered in the air as a dust, fume or mist it can be inhaled and absorbed through you lungs and upper respiratory tract.”

Hank_Wang · 2020-07-16T03:33:01.000Z

Dear Canada customers.

Many of our orders shipped on March and April to Canada are stuck in these two status below,

2020-05-22 16:08 CAYVR / Despatched to overseas
2020-05-10 16:05:00 CAYVR / Despatched to overseas

According to our experience, they are not lost, they only need longer time to arrive.
We fully understand your frustration. If you think you can not wait more, please file the paypal dispute, otherwise, please kindly wait longer.

We have lately changed the shipping method to Canada from Middle of April, and the shipping is much faster now.
Thanks for your support.