SFT-42R 6500K LEDs are available

[TitaniumDust]

@undefeated

Would the 519A be better than LH351D?

Depends on what you are going for. The 519A will have better CRI (R9080), and likely better tint out of the box. The LH351D is still going to be more efficient at most power levels based on these measurements:

@thefreeman

Although of course for both you might want to slice or dedome for better tint, and that will reduce the output a little. How that will compare I’m not sure.

[LuxWad]

Hey Hank, I just noticed this went up on the site, what does this mean? I have not heard of this company before, Nanjing YaoQi Photoelectric technology

[will34]

Well “Hank Wang” or “intl-outdoor.com” aren’t company names so I guess that’s how they’re registered in China

[CollectEverything]

This information was probably visible in your billing statement previously but it was in Chinese. I copied the Intl-outdoor.com account name from Paypal into Google Translate a while back and “Nanjing Nuoqi Photoelectric Technology Co., Ltd.” was what I got.

[puglife2]

I really love my Nanjing Yaoqi Photoelectric Technology™ lights

[will34]

@puglife2

I really love my Nanjing Yaoqi Photoelectric Technology™ lights

Tbh that’s way better than “CTSEBOKE” and alike :sunglasses:

[D45]

I have had several commercial invoices when he ships via Fedex that show this address.
Its very likely he operates under this name as his business in china.

[Lumen9000]

@LuxWad

Hey Hank, I just noticed this went up on the site, what does this mean? I have not heard of this company before, Nanjing YaoQi Photoelectric technology

This gives me déjà vu.

[LuxWad]

Awesome, now I know what to call these lights officially, instead of “Hanklights” or “Noctigon/Emisar lights” or “Lights from intl-outdoor.com” -

“Nanjing YaoQi Photoelectric Technology lights”

[raccoon]

Post #5000!

(at the moment.)

[CRC2]

Edited. I messed up the quotes a couple times. and again to fix some stuff.

@TitaniumDust

@undefeated

Would the 519A be better than LH351D?

Depends on what you are going for. The 519A will have better CRI (R9080), and likely better tint out of the box. The LH351D is still going to be more efficient at most power levels based on these measurements:

@thefreeman

Although of course for both you might want to slice or dedome for better tint, and that will reduce the output a little. How that will compare I’m not sure.

My first experiance with high CRI, was a Manker E14 (4x LH351D 4000k).
This light blew me away compared to my previous lights at that point.
I definitely appreciate the higher color rendering.
Next high CRI light I got was a Wurkkos TS21 (3x SST20 4000k)
I think its just as amaznig, only throwier. (could just be the optic though)
I often read people complaining about how “green” both these emitters are, among other reasons they dont like them compared to various Nichias emitters.

Kind of makes me afraid to try any Nichia’s.
How much better does it get? How noticeable is it really?
Once I know, I wont be able to unknow.
Should I just remain ignorant and continue to be happy with LH351’s and SST20’s?

I guess this is just like being an audiophile, but for color fidelity. Chromophiles.

[NewGuy420]

DM1.12 runs on the K9.3 firmware

[Frostcream]

@CRC2

Should I just remain ignorant and continue to be happy with LH351’s and SST20’s?

No. Enjoy them for their superior tint, and continue to enjoy SST-20 and LH351 for their output and relatively nice tint.

519A might send a shiver down your spine though…

[Lumen9000]

@NewGuy420

DM1.12 runs on the K9.3 firmware

Was thinking of this: https://www.reddit.com/r/flashlight/comments/u56z0q/noctigon_dm112_sft40_xpl_hi_4000k_with_d4s/?utm_medium=android_app&utm_source=share

D4s firmware on the dm12.1

[Verodin]

@CRC2

Next high CRI light I got was a Wurkkos TS21 (3x SST20 4000k)
I think its just as amaznig, only throwier. (could just be the optic though)
I often read people complaining about how “green” both these emitters are, among other reasons they dont like them compared to various Nichias emitters.

The TS21 has been the only light that I avoided using due to the tint. For comparison, I have other emitters that are slightly green, but they didn’t need to be swapped and I use them every now and then. But there was something really off-putting about the tint with the TS21 that I’ve never seen with other 4000K SST-20s. Couldn’t put my finger on the exact reason though. I replaced the 4000K with SST-20 3000K and all was well.

Fair warning; what has been seen, cannot be unseen

[nick779]

@ArtieT59

@nick779

My DM1.12 (sw45k/SFT40) is on the way and I had a few questions I haven’t been able to find answers to. 1.Does anyone know the full driver topology of the DM1.12 driver? (channel layout, Xx7135 or different, how many channels etc.) (Link to a picture too would be great) 2. Are the hardware defines published to the firmware repo? I couldn’t seem to find them. I’m looking for the 1x7135 and max_7135 values so I can configure my ramp/steps most efficiently. (Been a year since I last compiled Anduril so I’m very rusty) 3. Is the two channel Anduril code published in BZR somewhere or has TK not released it?

i have a spare dm1.12 driver at home, I can post pictures later if that helps.

I’d appreciate that!

I’m actually really intrigued by the new boost driver. Debating a KR4 with either SST20s/LH351D, or just go with a dual channel LH351D/W1.

[TitaniumDust]

@CRC2

Should I just remain ignorant and continue to be happy with LH351’s and SST20’s?

I guess this is just like being an audiophile, but for color fidelity. Chromophiles.

Haha, I like that way of describing it! I think also like with audiophiles, there are generally accepted preferences (negative duv in this case), however not everyone has the same tastes. I don’t like positive duv, but I also don’t like the extreme negative duv lights either. I find the 219b 4500k far to rosy, and really prefer something closer to the BBL. My rule is basically white paper should appear as white as possible; the 219b makes everything a little too red/magenta. The E21As are generally really good in this regard, but mixing them can get a little too negative. I think I might try an LH351D mix next to try and get just on or below the BBL, to get that high efficiency and hopefully very neutral color rendering as well.

[Haukkeli]

@TitaniumDust

@CRC2

Should I just remain ignorant and continue to be happy with LH351’s and SST20’s?

I guess this is just like being an audiophile, but for color fidelity. Chromophiles.

Haha, I like that way of describing it! I think also like with audiophiles, there are generally accepted preferences (negative duv in this case), however not everyone has the same tastes. I don’t like positive duv, but I also don’t like the extreme negative duv lights either. I find the 219b 4500k far to rosy, and really prefer something closer to the BBL. My rule is basically white paper should appear as white as possible; the 219b makes everything a little too red/magenta. The E21As are generally really good in this regard, but mixing them can get a little too negative. I think I might try an LH351D mix next to try and get just on or below the BBL, to get that high efficiency and hopefully very neutral color rendering as well.

I sliced 5700K and 5000K LH351D’s to 1.1mm for DT8 and Opple tells that result is this in max ramp:

[stephenk]

@TitaniumDust

@CRC2

Should I just remain ignorant and continue to be happy with LH351’s and SST20’s?

I guess this is just like being an audiophile, but for color fidelity. Chromophiles.

Haha, I like that way of describing it! I think also like with audiophiles, there are generally accepted preferences (negative duv in this case), however not everyone has the same tastes. I don’t like positive duv, but I also don’t like the extreme negative duv lights either. I find the 219b 4500k far to rosy, and really prefer something closer to the BBL. My rule is basically white paper should appear as white as possible; the 219b makes everything a little too red/magenta. The E21As are generally really good in this regard, but mixing them can get a little too negative. I think I might try an LH351D mix next to try and get just on or below the BBL, to get that high efficiency and hopefully very neutral color rendering as well.

I would just wait for Hank to stock the 519A. Hopefully within the next month or so.

[thefreeman]

It’s fine, the large pad just sucked all the solder, and there areflux residues all around it BTW.