I know I know, thank you

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Ok now thanks to this pic I understand well how does it function. It’s like an old DT8 with E21A. And also a dual boost driver!! Hank is a very cool project.
We can use level 1 or like usual standard we have to use minimum level 10?

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I know, I wrote to ToyKeeper about all the sub menu for choose the channels (1, 2 or both) because they are not in the manual, so its a little bit difficult to remember. I know ToyKeeper will fix all

You need one of these bad boys for that light. Stop dropping it so much lol

Tell them they can fix that by turning the lights to max brightness.

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Normally it’s the taillights so they go to max brightness when the driver hits the brake.

Yep, they can probably adjust those. They might not know how lol, but there’s a way. Might have to go to the dealership. I can adjust the brightness of my brake lights and reverse lights from 1 to 10 and they do that flicker if I have it too low.

You are simply saying that low frequency PWM is worse (and more visible to the eye) than high frequency PWM. No one is disagreeing with that.

@idleprocess posted ā€œtesting figuresā€ that say they measured PWM frequency at 16,000Hz on turbo. I didn’t see any numbers for high, medium, low, or moonlight brightnesses, but I am sure they would not be 16,000Hz. While many people believe 3,000Hz or above is ā€œsafeā€, I wholeheartedly disagree. Many people have issues with PWM even at 96,000Hz. (i.e. MacBook Pro displays.)

Just because something does not affect you (for instance, you do not get eye-strain or headaches from PWM) does not mean others are the same.

But what is better than high frequency PWM? No PWM at all.

The use of PWM–regardless of frequency–in all applications, is a ā€œcheapā€ way to go. Constant current is a better alternative. I’ve researched PWM in consumer applications over the past 10 years – the conclusion is that PWM sucks.

I will not comment any further on this topic out of respect to Hank and the others on this thread, as well as this being a widespread concern applicable to many other flashlight brands.

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This is fantastic! Thank you for posting this. I’ll be purchasing the M44 on day 1 of its release… just need to decide on LED choices. :grinning:

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The older FET+7135 drivers used PWM dimming, now the default drivers use analog dimming for the constant current linear power channel (up to 5-12A depending on the model. The FET channel (when used) still uses PWM dimming, but since the lights have sustained output in the linear range, and that the thermal stepdown is fairly quick, one should experience very little amount of PWM dimming with the current drivers.

The boost drivers use analog diming all the way, and so will the dual buck in the M44 as well. (edit : not sure about M44 PWM or not)

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I’m no EE, but I’m confident that it’s a whole lot easier to vary the pulse width/count than it is to vary the base frequency so I’d expect 16Khz throughout the brightness range.

I found this info in @ToyKeeper 's D4 review:

The D4 uses fast 3-level PWM at 15.6 kHz to adjust brightness. Low levels oscillate between 0 mA and ~350mA, while higher levels oscillate between ~350mA and full power. The PWM is far too fast to see during use, but a child with good hearing might be able to hear a faint high-pitched tone.

Hank, will there be an option for a PCB like the 3535 dual channel DT8, where each channel has its own optic?

It would be better for people who want flood-throw, so it can use frosted optics in flood channel and throwy optics in throw channel.

On a dual channel light with the multichannel firmware, you have the following channel modes: channel 1, channel 2, tint ramp, both channels at 50% each, and autotint. Each channel can be individually disabled or enabled in the rotation of channels, so you can lock it to only 50% by disabling each other one.

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Im in the same vpat what choices are you thinking?

What’s ā€œautotintā€? Hopefully not something like ā€œAutoRGBā€?

The mode you get when you ramp past the end in the older firmware, where the channel mix is tied to the brightness level.

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Initially I don’t understand because I read wrong what Hank wrote. Now I understand. I have D4K with dual channel and the exactly configuration you say

Most of the times, but there are reasons.

We know that tint shifts with current. Thus in applications where color accuracy is key PWM is used, as tint and colors stay uniform in all brightness levels.
Common applications would be (Computer) Monitors and Mobile Displays (because these go from very low to very bright, which would inherently have tint shift). Somme offer the option to switch to DC dimming, but its not the standard.

When did this happen? This is a game changer.

how powerful is the driver, at what voltage and current does it work? Does the flashlight have AUX auxiliary LEDs?